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SAS? leaf springs?


wrightfox
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I think what people are trying to say, is that it is typically more difficult to get leaves to flex that way, (i think they are called scissor shackles?) and with that goes more $$ into the leaves themselves, and with these modifications, it will not be very well mannered at anything above a crawl... whereas if you have a linked setup, There are things you can do to make it road worthy. I know a guy that occasionally drives his SAS'd 2000's blazer on 35's with coilovers in front, the 6 hour drive up to the UP of michigan, he gets crazy flex from that, combined with being able to tuck the 35's so high and such, but I highly doubt he would have such a road-mannered machine and still get the flex out of it if he was running leafs with the special shackle mounting

 

 

but, if your not really looking for such massive amounts of flex, and just want a solid axle, go for it and do the same basic setup as packie...I personally just wouldn't want to have coils in back and leaf springs up front, but thats just me

Edited by OldSlowReliable
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lol i was just about to say that i have leafs up front and coils in the back. mainly casue of cost and casue doing leafs up front was alot easier and i was under time constraints (using the parents garage)(< which didnt end well) lol. anyway i seem to get flex fine and havent had a problem with any obstacles yet. and that picture with the forklift isnt close to being flexed out. checkout the one in the truck of the month voting ( second picture down) im up on a stump. and just for reference im 6' 2" tall so if that helps with letting you know how things are flexing. but the arguement of SOA vs. SUA vs any type of links goes on forever and will continue to be argued. you just got remember whats your budget and what are you gonna use it for then figure out what fits you best

 

DSCN1225.jpg

 

1227312420500.jpg

Edited by packie88
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lol i was just about to say that i have leafs up front and coils in the back. mainly casue of cost and casue doing leafs up front was alot easier and i was under time constraints (using the parents garage)(< which didnt end well) lol. anyway i seem to get flex fine and havent had a problem with any obstacles yet. and that picture with the forklift isnt close to being flexed out. checkout the one in the truck of the month voting ( second picture down) im up on a stump. and just for reference im 6' 2" tall so if that helps with letting you know how things are flexing. but the arguement of SOA vs. SUA vs any type of links goes on forever and will continue to be argued. you just got remember whats your budget and what are you gonna use it for then figure out what fits you best

 

DSCN1225.jpg

 

1227312420500.jpg

 

Now I have seen it! That's great man. I've never seen a setup like that before. But I never said that it wouldn't work, just thought it was weird and off, that's all. But I do like the idea of leaves on all four corners of the R50. I think it would suit it well. The only thing being the whole unibody being an obstacle (can't really mess up the mountng points) and the subframe may get in the way (how did Alex - nissandoms47 - do his...hmm...need to look at that.)

 

jose

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Just an aside, for those who want to see some extreme uses of leaf springs, you should investigate 1/4 elliptical suspension. Definitely not saying an R50 can accommodate such a setup, but it's a common setup on jeeps and Samurai's.

 

Both of the links below have some shots of the 1/4 elliptical setup. Google "Eddie Casanueva" or 'Arachnid' for more pictures of the Samurai with 1/4 elliptical setup.

 

http://www.jeepaholics.com/tech/quarterellip/

 

http://zukioffroad.com/suzuki_samurai_page_of_fame.htm

 

Many folks would say that it is not "streetable" but with proper link setup it most certainly is and has been done numerous times.

 

Cheers

Rim

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You guys are right, it would be a one of a kind truck if ever there was..

 

I like it how the leafy Xterra massively outflexes the 4 wheel coil Disco. Of course hardcore Landy enthusiasts would know that that one is a phony! CT spec rigs had no suspension or fender modifications whatsoever and were shod w Michelin 7.50x16 XCLs (31.6")

 

Proved to be an outstanding combination

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Going to cost a lot more than that unless you get great deals on parts and do the work yourself or have friends who can do it and owe you favors.

 

And once you've got all that wonderful lift you're going to want some nice meats, and then you're looking at 2/3rds of your budget just for new rubber once the sas is done.

 

Don't want to be a dick, because I'd love to see another R50 sas, just know its not exactly a cheap date....

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lets say i did all the fabrication myself. people will argue this point but to get into a D44 its gonna cost you 500+ depending on what gears and what all you wanna put in it. unless you have someone donating all the parts 1.5k aint gonna happen. on an R50 where there are no prefabbed parts for it you probably looking at around 3.5-4k before rubber/rims IMHO.

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I hate to say it, but if you're looking to do a serious offroader for dirt cheap you should look into a jeep or other domestic...they're so commonly used that there a plethora of aftermarket parts and many types of vehicles can be picked up for quite cheap. Even a WD21 or older toy would be a lot cheaper than this project. Just remember you get what you pay for, so cheap rigs are more liable to break (unless you get a great deal on something good), and often you get less than you pay for when you're paying a shop to fab one off parts for a unique vehicle.

 

But what can I say...I'm an accounting student, I just see all the $$s instead of getting excited about the potential :(

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So do super duty Fords...and he was saying coils in the back and leafs up front would be off, and I agree, it would be weird, but I would like to see somebody do it...

 

Leafs up front and coils in the rear is done quite a bit with Sas'd rigs. I mainly see it on the domestics, but there has been a Pathy or two with leafs up front and coils in the rear.

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I hate to say it, but if you're looking to do a serious offroader for dirt cheap you should look into a jeep or other domestic...they're so commonly used that there a plethora of aftermarket parts and many types of vehicles can be picked up for quite cheap. Even a WD21 or older toy would be a lot cheaper than this project. Just remember you get what you pay for, so cheap rigs are more liable to break (unless you get a great deal on something good), and often you get less than you pay for when you're paying a shop to fab one off parts for a unique vehicle.

 

But what can I say...I'm an accounting student, I just see all the $$s instead of getting excited about the potential :(

 

That's my take too. One can get caught up in the numbers of it all. Focusing on a set price, set budget. But...with a custom project like this, there are a 1000 things that will come up that will nickel and dime you to death. Even just buying small tools/sockets/supplies that you don't have (like the big ass socket/wrenches to get the nut off the upper ball joint) all add up in the long run. Adapters for your brake lines, maybe the drive shaft angles aren't working out, so now you have to cut and rotate your ears on your front diff to get the pinion angles correct. Lots of unknowns. Lot's of details that you can't really put a price on until you get the project to a point of testing. Then after everything is all said and done, there is usually a year or two or three or four of debugging/improvements that are done once you start to wheel it . Of course it's all subjective so one can build and leave it alone and wheel without ever doing another thing to the truck.

 

Another thing to keep in mind. The more your rig is modified, the more maintenance and attention to details of it will always be needed. So there is a time investment that always seems to be lurking around.

 

Of course, an R50 project like this is something I think most of us look forward to watching the build up. Something new, something not run of the mill. Just giving a heads up on some stuff that sometimes doesn't get thought about.

 

Good luck!!

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x3.

 

I thought about getting another R50 to replace the current one. Also looked at building a cage, SASing and so on. But as others have pointed out, everything is custom and very very expensive as a result. Also, most folks don't have any experience with R50s so they're kinda learning as they go along. Translation: dead-ends and learning curves on your dime. Unless you're like tmorgan, mookie or one of the guys around here with a great deal of experience, skills, access to parts/tools and ba**s, it's hard to do.

 

Just to give you an idea of how expensive an SAS can be, an excellent local shop (who have VERY reasonable prices) would charge $3k on labor alone to do the whole thing soup-to-nuts and do it right. Oh, that quote was for a Tacoma - which has TONS of aftermarket support.

 

At a core level, I learnt the hard way that we can't make up entirely for Nissan's marketing and brand strategy. The WD21 is a tank. I've pulled parts off them and checked them out. Awesome machines. The R50 was meant for a different market and the only path most R51s are going to find is to the mall via the freeway. I don't agree with Nissans decision but it is what it is. For example, 32s on an R50 required considerable trimming, a lift, custom backspacing on the wheels and careful tire selection (not all 32s are equal). By contrast, you can bolt 33s onto a bone-stock 4x4 Tacoma... :(

 

WHY, NISSAN, WHY ??? :headwall:

Edited by GoPathyGo
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Things look great through rose colored glasses dude...I have had that experience in the past, where I got a rig, had big plans and BLAM...Mookie says it all by the "nickel and dime" issue...Always allow for about 40-50% allowance for the unknown when going into a project like this one... :shrug:

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leaf springs can flex just as much as links, if not more.

 

101_0694.jpg

 

BS

 

that shackle setup is what lets it flex that way, and those are horrible.

They have bad unloading caracteristics.

 

leaves = axle wrap and lead to wheel hop

 

coils don't do either.

 

everybody that says leaves can be set up just as good as coils and links are off their rocker.

 

If you don't believe me, look around to every "serious" offroad rig, they all go to coils sooner or later.

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The only reason why most people go for leaves is to keep the cost down. That's the only rason why my buddy's B2 has leaves right now, but soon it will be a 3-link coil set up up front and then coils all the way around eventually.

 

Leaves can be made to flex as much as coils if not more but there's a ton of downsides involved in the whole package.

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The only reason why most people go for leaves is to keep the cost down. That's the only rason why my buddy's B2 has leaves right now, but soon it will be a 3-link coil set up up front and then coils all the way around eventually.

 

Leaves can be made to flex as much as coils if not more but there's a ton of downsides involved in the whole package.

 

this is the truest statement in this entire thread.

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this is the truest statement in this entire thread.

When you really look at leaf suspension, it isn't the leaves doing the flexing, it is the scissor shackles...I like the coils as well :aok:

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BS

 

that shackle setup is what lets it flex that way, and those are horrible.

They have bad unloading caracteristics.

 

leaves = axle wrap and lead to wheel hop

 

coils don't do either.

 

everybody that says leaves can be set up just as good as coils and links are off their rocker.

 

If you don't believe me, look around to every "serious" offroad rig, they all go to coils sooner or later.

 

 

who said anything about which design was better? it's obvious that links > leaves. we were arguing flex, and that pic clearly shows that a leaf setup can flex just as much as links.

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at least ive found these finally after 4 months of searchin with no leads. no one could tell me where to get the rear ones. just hope they still do them!!

 

http://www.prgproducts.com/shop/category/pathfinder/

 

This has to be for an R51. That 2" spacer lift looks bad ass...if only. I mean the ring is circular! But the bolts are not on a circular path. They are in an uneven triangle like our mounts...I wonder...

 

Jose

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