sthrnfat Posted July 15, 2009 Share Posted July 15, 2009 (edited) Great write up - and the pics really help with the walk through! I'm looking to pick up some coils and spacers and do the same. D R - have you installed the spacers on OME coils? Wondering if it levels out the OMEs too. Also - I thought I read that there was a spacer location that didn't add additional stress to the CVs (no more than the coils themselves add). I'm torn between the heavy duty coils and the medium coils. Currently have a steel brush guard, and would like to pick up a front bumper, but that may be a while - bumper's a few steps down on the list. Mediums would probably work best now, but if I add the bumper, then it will likely sag a bit. Edited July 15, 2009 by sthrnfat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleurys Posted July 15, 2009 Share Posted July 15, 2009 great pictures...thanks.... here's what you ask... http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keywor...81260&dds=1 cheapest place I could find even with the conversion and broker fees... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted July 15, 2009 Share Posted July 15, 2009 Great write up - and the pics really help with the walk through! I'm looking to pick up some coils and spacers and do the same. D R - have you installed the spacers on OME coils? Wondering if it levels out the OMEs too. Also - I thought I read that there was a spacer location that didn't add additional stress to the CVs (no more than the coils themselves add). I'm torn between the heavy duty coils and the medium coils. Currently have a steel brush guard, and would like to pick up a front bumper, but that may be a while - bumper's a few steps down on the list. Mediums would probably work best now, but if I add the bumper, then it will likely sag a bit. If you are going to get a heavy bumper, get the HD coils. I think everyone who has both for just a lift has been satisfied, you can't expect the MD coils to be as firm as the HD and vice versa. And if you sandwhich the strut spacer between the lower and upper spring plates it limits your maximum extension to the same as stock since the top of the CV shaft is mounting in the same location as stock. The setup pictured here moves that nut down an inch and thus extends the CV another inch. If you look at my picture below you see that the upper and lower strut mount plates are sandwiching the spacer, compared to new4x4's where the spacer simply sits on top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daddy Rim Posted July 15, 2009 Share Posted July 15, 2009 D R - have you installed the spacers on OME coils? Wondering if it levels out the OMEs too. Also - I thought I read that there was a spacer location that didn't add additional stress to the CVs (no more than the coils themselves add). I'm torn between the heavy duty coils and the medium coils. Currently have a steel brush guard, and would like to pick up a front bumper, but that may be a while - bumper's a few steps down on the list. Mediums would probably work best now, but if I add the bumper, then it will likely sag a bit. I'm offering both styles of spacer, one that mounts between the upper and lower isolator bracket, and one that mounts on top. It's personal preference. As for spring choice, having had both OME MD and HD's up front, for everyday soccer / hockey driving in the wife's '01 the HD's are a little rough, but the MD's ended up being just right. When I had stock suspension configuration on my '97 with the ARB mounted on the front, the HD's were the only way to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new4x4r Posted July 15, 2009 Author Share Posted July 15, 2009 Thanks again Fleurys, I know I've asked for that link about 5 times now. As for Sandwiching the spacer between... I never thought about the extra inch of angle that would save. Uh oh, I'm going to get good at this by the time I get it right :-) Is it worth me doing it again? Should I wait until I install the new CV shafts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daddy Rim Posted July 15, 2009 Share Posted July 15, 2009 And if you sandwhich the strut spacer between the lower and upper spring plates it limits your maximum extension to the same as stock since the top of the CV shaft is mounting in the same location as stock. The setup pictured here moves that nut down an inch and thus extends the CV another inch. If you look at my picture below you see that the upper and lower strut mount plates are sandwiching the spacer, compared to new4x4's where the spacer simply sits on top. There is one caveat to mounting between the upper and lower isolator (strut mount) brackets. Unless your spacer has a dished out center and not a large bore, there is a risk that the rubber isolator can be pulled out of it's mount. The OEM lower bracket ensures that it is sandwiched in place. Hence why I offer two styles of spacers, one specifically for top mount and the other for middle mount. That being said, I have had two sets mounted between the upper and lower brackets and not had any isolator issues, however it has been reported from other members that they have had issues with the isolator pulling out from the upper mount. I can't discount other peoples experiences. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new4x4r Posted July 15, 2009 Author Share Posted July 15, 2009 with the spacer on top, it doesn't seem to top out any worse than it did before I installed them. the CV angle is still pretty bad, but I don't remember how bad it was before I put them on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daddy Rim Posted July 15, 2009 Share Posted July 15, 2009 with the spacer on top, it doesn't seem to top out any worse than it did before I installed them. the CV angle is still pretty bad, but I don't remember how bad it was before I put them on. If mounted in between the upper and lower brackets, it would top out MUCH more readily, especially with new AC coils. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OfftourRoadie96 Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 (edited) To negate all of this broohaha, I have been supplying new lower isolator brackets with the larger hardware already installed as an additional option. This negates a few of the steps that new4x4r had to go through. I bought a set of these spacers from NX4.... About 2 years ago, LOL! I have yet to install, I'm hesitating only because of the drilling larger holes for the sake of the heavier duty hardware. With the recent install of a KMA BUMPER AND WARN WINCH, there's more substantial weight in front now. I plan on getting a SFD (Eventually) in the future and don't want to create more work or problems, since the spacers would have to be removed again for a SFD install. Does anyone forsee problems installing the SFD after enlarging the bolt holes for the strut towers???? Just Curious. 1/2" grade 8 welded hardware. Edited February 23, 2011 by OfftourRoadie96 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddfildvaynes Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 SFD? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 Not really...the strut spacers have seperate top and bottom flanges....so one set of holes could easily be enlarged if necessary....but then again there may not be enough space depends how big of a hole we are talking about here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmons Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 Nice!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleurys Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 personnaly, I would not enlarge the holes... doing so, in my opinion, only makes the spacer and the strut tower more fragile as more material has been removed. all the force applied to this piece is coming from the bottom up and vice-versa... So to reinforce it (if it needs it), I would opt instead for some kind of plate on top (inside the engine bay) of the strut tower..kind of a brace to help the tiny metal of the tower to take the hits... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exit34rocker1017 Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 I thought there was a way of doing this without enlarging the holes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
180sx Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 Just use a skinnier bolt. 1/2" is pretty big already. So using somthing a bit smaller shouldn't hurt anything. Just don't go to the baja. Jose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow4me Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 Just use a skinnier bolt. 1/2" is pretty big already. So using somthing a bit smaller shouldn't hurt anything. Just don't go to the baja. Jose Is this spacer just used for leveling the front of a sagging truck, or do the AC or OME lift leave the truck with a higher rear end? I guess what I am saying is, should the spacer be installed when doing any lift or do you wait and see if the front is lower? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spazman Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 My OME lift gave a rear rake appearance. I'm considering spacers to level it out. BTW, I have stock bumpers so there is no extra weight anywhere on my PF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow4me Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 My OME lift gave a rear rake appearance. I'm considering spacers to level it out. BTW, I have stock bumpers so there is no extra weight anywhere on my PF. It doesn't look like to big a deal to put them in. Wonder if it's wise to put them in to begin with and then add some sort of spacer to bring the rear up if needed? Are there lifts available to raise the rear small amounts to adjust it level? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OfftourRoadie96 Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 SFD? REALLY? (Sub-Frame Drop) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OfftourRoadie96 Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 Just use a skinnier bolt. 1/2" is pretty big already. So using somthing a bit smaller shouldn't hurt anything. Just don't go to the baja. Jose The spacers are made with the 1/2" holes..... I guess when I eventually install a SFD....I would use a new strut mount, drill out the stock bolts and weld shorter 1/2" bolts.....oh well! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaMountianbiker Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 The spacers are made with the 1/2" holes..... I guess when I eventually install a SFD....I would use a new strut mount, drill out the stock bolts and weld shorter 1/2" bolts.....oh well! Do it don't be scared I love your truck with that bumper! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daddy Rim Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 personnaly, I would not enlarge the holes... doing so, in my opinion, only makes the spacer and the strut tower more fragile as more material has been removed. all the force applied to this piece is coming from the bottom up and vice-versa... So to reinforce it (if it needs it), I would opt instead for some kind of plate on top (inside the engine bay) of the strut tower..kind of a brace to help the tiny metal of the tower to take the hits... Just to clarify, the forces are not all coming from the bottom up. There are shear forces that are only overcome by the friction induced by the clamping force of the bolt to the strut tower. The spacers are available with either 3/8 or 1/2" hardware. You do not have to drill out your strut tower if you do not want to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99silverRE50 Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 Ok, I have a problem, All they sent me was bolts that doesnt have any knurls on the hex end side so now im stock of how to tighten the third bolt thats behind the spacer as it just spins when i try to tighten it and is to narrow to get in with any wrench? Did they fuked up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99silverRE50 Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 Ok, I have a problem, All they sent me was bolts that doesnt have any knurls on the hex end side so now im stock of how to tighten the third bolt thats behind the spacer as it just spins when i try to tighten it and is to narrow to get in with any wrench? Did they fuked up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daddy Rim Posted April 16, 2012 Share Posted April 16, 2012 Ok, I have a problem, All they sent me was bolts that doesnt have any knurls on the hex end side so now im stock of how to tighten the third bolt thats behind the spacer as it just spins when i try to tighten it and is to narrow to get in with any wrench? Did they fuked up? Nope, no mess up, if you read the instuctions, they provide details on how to secure the studs in place prior to installing. You may have missed a little step is all. You have a few options to secure the stud in place, one is to use an adhesive such as Loctite 454 adhesive gel or other chemicals as recommened in the instructions, or you could always spot weld the fasteners if you have such capabilities available to you. As an option, we offer the lower strut brackets ith the longer studs pre-installed, however the studs only have to be secured long enough to install and reach their proper torque value, thus an adhesive, after curing, should provide you with sufficient torque off to permit safe installation. Should you have any further questions on the install, don't hesitate to shoot me an email sales@nx4industries.com Cheers, Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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