sthrnfat

This guy put together some rear tire carrier designs along with a skid plate design with dimensions. Nice designs on the tire carriers too - replaces a trailer hitch and swings out for access to the rear hatch. http://r50projects4free.googlepages.com/home

So let's see the pictures and videos from all those that are so much more 'extreme' than his mud fun.

Interesting tire review being put together. They are testing the Toyo, BFG and Hankook AT tires in a head to head with video clips included. All the videos aren't up yet, but they have video and scoring for each tire in each test category. Click on the category to see clips and scores for each. http://www.4x4tirereview.com/ATcomparotest.html The Hankooks look to be really solid AT tires. Looking at them in person, they have bigger voids than the others so I'm sure that plays a role in their performance offroad. Good stuff.

Michelin came out with this concept some time ago and I've seen some versions of it on construction equipment, but it looks like they are working on offroad applications for the military. Would suck to have a flat while being shot at so it makes sense. Would be interested in hear about the performance. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_gHLi5No8dSY/SSGi.../s400/Honeycomb http://hackadaycom.files.wordpress.com/200...w=450&h=338 Could be pretty cool for expedition type stuff out in the middle of nowhere.

Who has the best deal on quality rock sliders? Like the idea of the designs that use 2 bars per side to offer some additional sheet metal protection. Saw these when searching. Great price - but it doesn't look like they are available any more - Email address doesn't work. http://www.nissanpathfinders.com/MattsSliders.htm Anyone know of other good deals?

Are you guys running spacers front and rear, or just on the front?

Find spacers in 1", 1.25", and 1.5". What size should I pick up to run 265/75s on stock SE wheels? Want to clear the struts but don't want to go too wide and hit the flares at full compression. Any pics of stock wheels with 265s? Thanks!

Looking to move up to 32" tires (265/75/16) and wonder about the truck being sluggish with bigger tires (increased diameter, added weight, wider contact patch, etc). Having run bigger tires on a couple of different trucks without regearing I know that increasing tire size can cause the truck to feel sluggish and can make the truck shift early (auto trans). Recently had a Titan and ran bigger tires than stock but the truck had a ton of power and the tire change was no problem. My concern is that the 3.3 already feels underpowered and don't want the truck turning into a slug with the bigger tires. Any feedback on power loss when going to 32s? Just trying to figure out how noticable it is and if the transmission (auto) is shifting early and forcing you to try to run at higher rpms to stay on top of the gear.

Anybody have pictures of the lift install on their 2006. Will probably go with OME coils and would like to find some pics / walk throughs of the install. Anyone have a link to an install if there aren't any pictures handy?? Installed the OME coils on my 2000 and am loving it.

Anyone know the biggest spare tire that will fit under the rear deck? Will a 32 fit or are you carrying your spare in the rear hatch or on a rack?

Anyone know what size spacer is needed to run the 265s on stock wheels?

Just painted my stock wheels and am looking to pick up some more aggressive tires. Want to keep the stock wheels and go with the tallest tire I can for ground clearance. I know there are some folks running 265/75/16, but it sounds like they won't clear the KYB struts without spacers or without changing wheels. Sounds like I can run a 245/75 on the stock wheels, but I would like to go taller if possible. The expo guys all talk about the 235/85s as performing well offroad and still handling well on road without alot of added drag on pavement (less loss in mpg), and I would gladly run em if they would clear the struts. Have been looking at the Duratracs and the Hankook MTs. Both are AT/MT tweeners that are said to be more aggressive than typical ATs but run a little smoother and quieter on the pavement than typical MTs. There are a couple pics here of a truck with 235/85 Duratrac ATs... http://www.yotatech.com/f177/wrangler-duratrac-167549/ There are a couple pics here of a 4runner with 235/85 Hankook MTs... http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e194/CYi...er/DSC_0273.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e194/CYi...er/DSC_0277.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e194/CYi5/IMG_0616.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e194/CYi5/IMG_0509.jpg Here is a review of the Hankooks... http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/Featured+Con...e/detail/448195 Some comparison numbers for the Duratrac from TireRack website... 245/75/16 = height - 30.5, tire body width - 9.8, tread width - 7.5 265/75/16 = height - 31.7, tire body width - 10.5, tread width - 8.5 235/85/16 = height - 31.7, tire body width - 9.3, tread width - 7.7 The 235/85 is the same height as the 265/75 and my hope is that the 235 will clear the strut without the need for spacers or a wheel swap. - Has anyone tried this size on stock wheels? - For those of you that have tried 265s on stock wheels - was there any space between the tire and the strut?? - When I upsized on other trucks there was always a loss in power with the larger diameter tires and the AT would short shift. How much of lag are you feeling with the larger tires?

Wonderful!! Thanks guys - was just searching through ebay and about to order a pdf copy! More evidence of why this forum is such a great resource!

Looking for a repair manual for my 2000 R50. Have had Haynes manuals in the past, but know there are other options and was hoping for some recommendations. Found a few on ebay that look to be electronic files that they are sending out on a CD. Would prefer to have a printed version if possible.

Have a set of 255/70/16 Scorpion ATRs on the stock 2000 SE wheels. Only rubs in full lock in reverse. The ATRs are basically a less aggressive AT tire. Great tire - just more road oriented. Plan to go to a more aggressive 245/75/16 to get a little more clearance without the need to trim. From what I have read, they are the tallest tire that will fit the stock 16" wheels with no rub (may still rub in reverse at full lock). dududuckling - can you post some pics of those km2s mounted? Got to be a great tire.

I do have the sway going too. Will plan to replace control arm bushings and see how it goes. Is it worth it to go to poly and who has the best pricing?

I have read a few posts about the clunk sound that is heard over bumps that is typically the control arm bushings (based on the responses, anyway). I have a 2000 SE and have a low volume 'thud' that happens when i accelerate from a dead stop. I get a single thud about 1/2 a second after I start to accelerate. It is not the shift from 1st to 2nd. Sounds kinda like hitting solid metal with a rubber malette - not a metal on metal kind of sound. Could this be from the worn bushings too? Sounds almost like the the axle shifting or rotating a little under acceleration? The clunk might be it snapping into place. The sound is still pretty subtle at this point, but is pretty consistent when starting from a dead stop. I recently mounted up some OME springs and GR-2 struts/shocks, but this was happening before the suspension upgrade. Haven't replaced control arms or any bushings. Also - can someone point me to the bushings that can be replaced without a press? Want to pick some up to start replacing the old with the new over time, but don't have access to a press. Will likely have to buy the control arms as complete units when the time comes. Any other bushings that can be replaced and can you post a link to a place to pick the particular bushings up? Thanks in advance!

Went to Brown Mountain OHV park on Sunday. Good time, but the trails that are open to trucks are pretty limited. Lots of motorcycles and atvs out there so you have to keep an eye and ear out for them. All were cool and I just moved over to let them by. Good stuff if you plan to be in the area but not worth a dedicated trip since truck trails are limited. Not sure of mileage but I'm thinking it's around 5-6 miles each way for a total of around 10 miles. You can always head back up as much as you want trying different lines. http://www.cs.unca.edu/nfsnc/recreation/br...ountain_orv.pdf Main trail is a climb out to the top of Brown Mountain and then you descend back down the trail on what is the main connector 'road' that leads to all trails. Basically a rough access road with lots of water bars and some washout areas. It was fairly dry Sunday so I only lost traction for a second in a few spots when trying to climb steeper pitches. There are a few places where the trail is pretty narrow and has some steep side slopes beside the trail! The route is supposed to be 2 way traffic, but there are limited spots for 2 trucks to pass each other - but motorcycles and atvs could pass pretty easily. One truck would probably need to back up to a wider spot to allow the other truck to pass. All in all - a fun challenge.

Great looking bumper! So what is the word on the TJM stuff? I read that they pulled out of the US, but are there any available or is there a way to get one to the US at a reasonable price? Saw that somebody was going to make some bumpers using the TJM as a template. Did this ever happen and are these available? http://www.4x4parts.com/ubbthreads/showfla...rt=all&vc=1 Would consider the ARB if they made the a bumper with the brush guards.

Picked up a map at the Ranger Station in Pisgah this weekend. The map shows a range of roads and trails including several different paved road types, 'improved roads' which are listed as 'light-duty paved or gravel', and 'unimproved roads' which are listed as 'may not be passable for vehicles due to current conditions'. Sounds interesting. I plan to do some exploring to see what I can find. I've seen pictures of some great trails that were old logging roads - can't find the links again to search out the exact locations. Nothing too crazy mostly overgrown double track, but enough to have to pick lines and a few shallow creek crossings. Not sure if those trails would even show up on a map, but figure it'll be fun exploring. Will post up if I can find anything of interest.

My heat sheild was rattling like crazy. Several sections of the heat shield and most of the hardware holding it in place was rusted and breaking down, so I just cut away the loose heatshield with some metal cutters and no more rattle! Plan to replace the exhaust at some point, but with the rattle gone it just dropped down several lines on my list!

Anyone know if pulling or replacing these bushings in the stock link requires any special tools? I know certain bushings can be pressed in/out by hand (or hammer/hand tools) and some require a press to set them in place. Was talking to a mechanic that said there is a technical service bulletin that shows the need to replace the upper and lower links when the sway sets in with higher mileage. Mine has the sway so will be swapping them out before long. Would rather go the cheap route with new bushings in the existing arms if it's something that can be done without a press. Where is the best online pricing for the upper and lower control arms?

Truck looks great. Congrats on the lift and wheels/tires. Did you do just the lower control arms and did that firm up the rear end? Wasn't sure if the upper arms had to be replaced as well.

Are the lower control arms the main problem that causes the sway or are the upper arms likely a problem too? Want to get it right, but don't want to pay for parts that may not be needed. Labor I got - it's money that's tight! I don't mind doing in twice, but thought it would be worth it to ask if someone has done the lower arms only and found that it tightened things up.

About to order up some OME coils, but on the fence about HD vs medium front coils. Have a brush guard and would love to pick up a winch bumper, but it is low on the list right now. With that in mind the HD coils may be on the stiff side without the extra weight. Any feedback on coil selection would be a big help - especially if you have the HDs and no bumper or winch. Are the HDs too harsh without the extra weight up front? Can anybody compare the stiffness of the AC coils with the OMEs? Also anybody got a side view of their truck with OME coils? Would like to see comparison of with and without a 1" spacer so if you have either post a pic for comparison. Thanks! Will probably buy the coils from Rugged Rocks - Steevo has been very helpful so I figure they deserve the business. Plus they actually have em in stock!