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Serious idle problem


Kingman
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This morning when I started my truck up the engine immediately revved to 3000 rpm and held there. I revved the engine to redline a few times, and it still settled at 3k. In drive it went down to 1600 rpm, but I was very scared to drop it in gear with the engine revving that high, but surpisingly it went in smoothly. On the way to school I could let off the gas and it would keep at 45 mph consitantly. When I got to school I disconnected the battery and let it sit for a few, then connected it and started the truck. It revved up to 2000 rpm this time but then started bouncing between 1500 and 2000 rpm, up down up down up down very quickly. In drive it was at 1100 rpm but a solid idle. I unplugged a clip on the back of the throttle body and that kept the idle from bouncing up and down in park or neutral for a few minutes, then it started bouncing again. Then I manually turned the idle down with the screws but that didn't do a thing. So something electronic is definitely effing with it. I checked the codes and it's showing no malfunction.

 

As some of you know, I did go through water yesterday and got some of my engine wet, but it ran perfectly fine yesterday. I patched up the rust hole in my fender, and I accidentally severed the distributor power wire (not the ignition coil wire, the electrical power wire) and I soldered it back together well and shrink wrapped it. It started right up and idled perfectly, and I drove around last night as well. So I'm thinking it's just a coincidence. Everything under the hood is connected well and dry. It starts up perfectly fine, no sputters but it does take a few cranks longer. NORMALLY it idles at 1100 in park, and 700 in drive when it's warm.

 

I have a can of Seafoam I'm going to run through my intake, maybe that'll clear it up :shrug:

 

I made videos of what it's doing, so when I get home today I'll post them up.

 

Thanks for any ideas!

Edited by Kingman
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Edicer, the cables and everything are working smoothly. The wiring to the MAF sensor is solid as well, and the sensor its self is clean. Good thought!

 

I just Seafoamed the engine, put the whole can in over a few runs. Man she was smokey! I drove around the neighborhood and it completely bat screened everything! But it didn't help at all with the problem...

 

I ran the ECU codes again and it still came up no malfunction. :shrug:

Edited by Kingman
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Yes they do, I have no idea where it is though. I'm at my mom's house and all my books are at my dads. If it is a bad sensor, I'm a proud owner of $3 plus whatever change in my truck, so it'll have to wait. :lol:

 

It stopped bouncing up and down though for the most part, now it just idles at 2000 rpm in park.

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did you ever pull the plugs after swamping it the other day.. i haven't read any threads about that.

run the diagnostic modes on the ECU..

 

I did pull the plugs just in case I did suck water into it, they were fine. I didn't suck any water into it anyways.

 

Codes, thanks but:

I checked the codes and it's showing no malfunction.

 

I ran the ECU codes again and it still came up no malfunction.

 

:aok:

 

The guy I got the transmission from said that I can come over to his place tomorrow and start swapping parts to find the one that's malfunctioning, then either work it off or go get one somewhere else. Saves me a lot of money!

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read the ECU thread again.. i'm not talking about pulling codes.. run the other functions on your ecu..

 

as to the issue.. hmmm... double check the wire you fixed.. also check all connections related to it..

 

if your truck got swamped and this was just a wetness issue, this should have cleared up by now.

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Oh Modes, not Codes. :lol:

I figured if it was going to throw a code it would show up in the stored codes? :scratchhead:

 

Tomorrow before I start swapping parts I'll run through each mode. Thanks. :aok:

 

EDIT: The idle quit bouncing up and down in N or P, now it just sits at 2k...

I really hope I don't have to panic stop sometime soon while this problem is around, that wouldn't be good...

Edited by Kingman
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unplug it then plug it back in.. your symptoms match the maf idea.

 

I did already, no change. Wiggling the wires didn't do anything either. Maybe the sensor its self just took a dump? It probably got wet when I took the truck for a swim...

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the dust nipple on my throttle cable used to slide off and get stuck under the wire but on top of the throttle cam. It caused the exact same effect.

I think the softness of the old rubber was enough to let the manifold vaccum pull the butterfly open and when the vaccum dropped from it being open it would close again untill the vaccum raised. Vooom Vooom Vooom Vooom.

 

allong those lines check your thortte return spring for breaks, and see if the throttle cam itself is actually twitching.

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Is there a way you can take a picture of what you're referring to?

 

Thinking about it, I think I could hear the injectors pulse when it goes psst(vroom), psst(vroom), psst(vroom).

I talked to Tim again today, he talked to his Nissan mechanic friend and he said it sounds like it's being fed way too much air and the IACV might be suspect. Thoughts?

 

Also, when slowing down and coasting slowly, when the RPMs hit about 2k the revs start bouncing from 1500-2000, just like it does in P or N. Then after like 5-10 seconds of that it quits as the truck continues to slow down.

Edited by Kingman
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Bad MAF sensor. Not the wiring, connections, or the 2 heater wires themselves. :thumbsdown: Swapped it out and now it runs like a top! Thanks for all the ideas and replies!

Edited by Kingman
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