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Help please please please


SC88Pathy
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Can someone, anyone help me out?

 

I lost second and fourth. The auto will not shift into second and it will not stay in fourth. I am PRAYING that this is a stuck solenoid, and a transmission fluid change will help it. The Pathfinder is my daily driver and my only way of getting around, and as some of you know I don't have a stable source of income to afford to fix this, nor any savings.

 

I don't really know how to change the transmission fluid (besides dropping the pan, and I already know that I will have to drop my exhaust and probably a crossmember too, not fun and not something I think I'm entirely equipped to do). I'v been told I can disconnect the fluid lines at the cooler and then pump the fluid out, and then pump new fluid in, but supposedly it's a two man operation and I don't really have anyone around here who could help me (the only friend I have who's mechanically inclined I wouldn't let 50 feet around the Pathy with a set of tools).

 

Can anyone help me out and show me how to do this? Please?

 

A fluid change will not fix that problem, i suggest taking a good look at the fluid and seeing how burnt it is. Got manual 2nd?
Fluid is definatly not looking good. I can't really tell how bad it is though, but I know it's not as pink as it should be, I'll try to take a pic once it stops raining.

 

By manual do you mean a haynes or FSM? If so no. If you mean a manual trans, no it's an auto, and if you mean can I manually shift into second, that's also a no.

 

Further info: Checked the fluid again today in proper lighting this time. Fluid is still pinkish not as pink as fresh fluid though. Not gray or black though. Doesn't smell burnt. There is no apparent shavings or crap in the fluid on the dipstick, of course that doesn't mean that there isn't anything at the bottom of the pan. One bad thing is that the factory clearly overfilled the transmission, fluid level goes about an inch up past the top hot line.

Edited by SC88Pathy
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I'm sorry to say, I think your tranny is self destructing, clutches, solenoid, etc. Definitely check for particles in the screen.

 

Is it shifting from first directly to third? And then to fourth, and then back out of fourth into third? Not shifting into second could be a blocked ball valve, but unlikely. Or, the particle came from a disentegratic clutch. As for not staying in fourth...yeah...

 

You might get lucky and the flush will knock whatever particle is trapping a valve in the valve body out, so you can baby the tranny a bit further.

 

The best way in my opinion to change the fluid is to disconnect the fluid lines and pump them the fluid into a bucket. And then remove the pan and filter and clean it out. Then pour the fluid into the line that doesn't pump fluid out until it starts pumping out the other line.

 

But when I thought, and was told, my tranny was done for, after I installed my aftermarket cooler the probolem went away.

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I'm sorry to say, I think your tranny is self destructing, clutches, solenoid, etc. Definitely check for particles in the screen.

 

Is it shifting from first directly to third? And then to fourth, and then back out of fourth into third? Not shifting into second could be a blocked ball valve, but unlikely. Or, the particle came from a disentegratic clutch. As for not staying in fourth...yeah...

 

You might get lucky and the flush will knock whatever particle is trapping a valve in the valve body out, so you can baby the tranny a bit further.

 

What happens shifting wise: Stays in first up to about 25-35mph (3000-5500RPM) then I have to let off the gas, it hesitates attempts to shift to second (RPM's drop to about 2500ish) then finally goes into third (RPM's around 1500). Then once I get up to around 50, if I let off the gas RPM's will drop down to 1000. As soon as I get back on the gas though it jumps back to third and RPM's increase accordingly.

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SC if it is for sure coming apart I will have all the parts to do a 5 spd conversion with the exception of the tranny (b/c the one in my 95 right now is kinda sketchy) i'm sure you could find the tranny fairly reasonable and could work out a pretty good price on everything else

 

good luck...sorry i'm not much help on this topic

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I'm sorry to say, I think your tranny is self destructing, clutches, solenoid, etc. Definitely check for particles in the screen.

 

Is it shifting from first directly to third? And then to fourth, and then back out of fourth into third? Not shifting into second could be a blocked ball valve, but unlikely. Or, the particle came from a disentegratic clutch. As for not staying in fourth...yeah...

 

You might get lucky and the flush will knock whatever particle is trapping a valve in the valve body out, so you can baby the tranny a bit further.

 

The best way in my opinion to change the fluid is to disconnect the fluid lines and pump them the fluid into a bucket. And then remove the pan and filter and clean it out. Then pour the fluid into the line that doesn't pump fluid out until it starts pumping out the other line.

 

But when I thought, and was told, my tranny was done for, after I installed my aftermarket cooler the probolem went away.

 

 

you have transmission problems once, now all of the sudden you're the transmission expert. your transmission was overheated and the clutch packs were disintegrating. the metal particles were clogging the solenoids, causing it to shift at weird times. the reason it was hit-and-miss is because when the truck has been sitting for awhile, the particles settle at the bottom but when you've been driving it for awhile, they get stirred up and block the solenoids again. a fluid change would've remedied the symptom temporarily, but not fixed the problem.

 

SC88 is having a similar issue. he lacks line pressure, causing his transmission to upshift late into 2nd, early into 3rd, and late into 4th, with a favor for 3rd. 1st and 3rd gear are on the same drum, 2nd gear is dedicated, and 4th (true overdrive) also has its own dedicated set of gears/clutch packs. line pressure works both ways, so a clog in the valve body can easily cause a delayed 2nd gear shift, a premature 3rd gear shift, and a reluctance to stay in OD.

 

SC88, you can buy yourself some time as well by doing a fluid change, as well as replacing/cleaning the solenoids and valve body. that won't fix the problem of disintegrating clutches, though. if you prolong repair, it will eventually lead to the transmission not going into gear altogether - kinda like it's stuck in neutral.

 

like unccpathfinder recommends, you should try finding a replacement trans. they should be easy to find, whether or not you want a direct pull from a junker, or a rebuilt trans. a friend and a few jacks (and the basic hand tools) is all it takes to swap them out.

Edited by alexrex20
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you have transmission problems once, now all of the sudden you're the transmission expert. your transmission was overheated and the clutch packs were disintegrating.

 

Luckily, I'm still able to baby mine after the tranny cooler, since it's going on a month now with no issue. According to the other booklet though, the problem was more common to be electrical and sensor related, and nothing to do with anything mechanical.

 

I've read 2 tear down and rebuild service manuals since then on the 3 speed and 4 speed trannys. I'm reading one right now.

 

The one I'm reading right now puts SC88's problem "gear change directly from D1 to D3" as #1 Fluid Level, control linkage, #2 Accumulator 1-2 2-3, #3, control valve assembly, shift solenoid valve A, #4high clutch. "Failure to change from D3 to D2 when changing lever into 2 position as #1 Inhibitor switch, #2 TPS sensor, #3 overrun clutch solenoid valve, #4 shift solenoid valve B, #5 shift solenoid valve A, #6 control valve assembly, #7 control linkage, #8 brake band, #9 overrun clutch

Edited by kingman92010
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SC88 is having a similar issue. he lacks line pressure, causing his transmission to upshift late into 2nd, early into 3rd, and late into 4th, with a favor for 3rd. 1st and 3rd gear are on the same drum, 2nd gear is dedicated, and 4th (true overdrive) also has its own dedicated set of gears/clutch packs. line pressure works both ways, so a clog in the valve body can easily cause a delayed 2nd gear shift, a premature 3rd gear shift, and a reluctance to stay in OD.

 

SC88, you can buy yourself some time as well by doing a fluid change, as well as replacing/cleaning the solenoids and valve body. that won't fix the problem of disintegrating clutches, though. if you prolong repair, it will eventually lead to the transmission not going into gear altogether - kinda like it's stuck in neutral.

 

like unccpathfinder recommends, you should try finding a replacement trans. they should be easy to find, whether or not you want a direct pull from a junker, or a rebuilt trans. a friend and a few jacks (and the basic hand tools) is all it takes to swap them out.

 

Fourth in this transmission is actually fourth, not Overdrive, OD was not introduced to the V6 Auto until 1990. Does that effect how the transmission works internally?

 

Also if I found a donor from a 90-95 Pathfinder would it work with my ECU set up (4 speed non OD Transmission controller and TBI ECU)?

Edited by SC88Pathy
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Fourth in this transmission is actually fourth, not Overdrive, OD was not introduced to the V6 Auto until 1990. Does that effect how the transmission works internally?

 

The guide I wrote my reply in has troubleshooting for both. And it's still the same diagnostic. But it is a little contradicting...

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Fourth in this transmission is actually fourth, not Overdrive, OD was not introduced to the V6 Auto until 1990. Does that effect how the transmission works internally?

 

Also if I found a donor from a 90-95 Pathfinder would it work with my ECU set up (4 speed non OD Transmission controller and TBI ECU)?

 

 

if it's not a true overdrive, then 2nd and 4th gears will be shared, similar to 1st and 3rd gears. the symptoms still support my diagnosis, regardless of true overdrive or true 4th gear.

 

a 90-95 AOD transmission will probably drive your truck, but you may have issues with the ECU and CELs.

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The Pathfinder is my daily driver and my only way of getting around,

 

Can't you catch a ride from your girlfriend?... oh wait... nevermind

 

 

 

:hide:

Edited by k9sar
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Can't you catch a ride from your girlfriend?... oh wait... nevermind

:hide:

 

You haven't been paying attention for the past year or so have you? I suggest you go back and read the PoHo to catch up.

 

Besides she relies on me for transportation.

 

 

:jacked:

 

Back on topic, has anyone ever used this site: http://www.everdrive.com/partdetails.aspx?sku=3346787

 

Good or bad deal? It has a 3 year warranty at least...

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Honestly I would flush the system first just to see if that will improve it temporarily at least.

 

I just did it myself and it is super easy. Just requires one person, a couple of lengths of transmission hose, a deep bucket, and new transmission fluid. Cost me about 60 bucks total. This thread can really help for that: Transmission Flush Thread

 

I just followed 88's instructions. However, you probably want to take the pan out and clean it thoroughly.

 

IF this temporarily fixes your problem, I would still get a transmission cooler AT LEAST. A new/rebuilt transmission is probably in your future though.

The one you listed looks like a good option, especially with the 3 year warranty.

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So, you have no manual 2nd and it doesn't actually shift into 2nd from 1st? Just free rev's where 2nd should be? Sounds like a broken/burnt up front band and or front servo/apply piston failure. It could also be the front band strut has fallen out or broken. Only way to inspect the front band is to take the valve body off.

 

I'll take a look at a spare e4n71b and e4r01a i have at work, could be a solenoid issue if you are lucky.

Edited by yozsi
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Well miracle of miracles, my dad and I were just taking a look at it, but after figuring out how much time it was going to take to take to drop the pan he decided he didn't really want to help me anymore. Anyways as I was driving the car back up to the house (we were working on it in our barn) I got it to shift into second. As the transmission started to warm up though it didn't want to stay in second under power.

 

Sooo I'm going to try changing the fluid and installing an external cooler.

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Also is there a way to diagnose if the solenoids are working properly?

 

EDIT Found the diagnostic procedure post, but it's for 90-95 Pathfinders. How much different is the process for the 88-89 models?

Edited by SC88Pathy
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So, you have no manual 2nd and it doesn't actually shift into 2nd from 1st? Just free rev's where 2nd should be? Sounds like a broken/burnt up front band and or front servo/apply piston failure. It could also be the front band strut has fallen out or broken. Only way to inspect the front band is to take the valve body off.

 

I'll take a look at a spare e4n71b and e4r01a i have at work, could be a solenoid issue if you are lucky.

 

Should be an RE4R01A and RL4R01A

Edited by kingman92010
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OK planning on getting everything I need to do the fluid change tomorrow. Enjoi and I are going to hit up Pick'n'Pull to find an Explorer Transmission cooler. What else am I going to need to install it?

 

I was just planning on buying a big bucket of B&M Trick Shift, should be enough ATF fluid right?

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Should be an RE4R01A and RL4R01A

 

Same difference, one is just as ****** as the other, one has crappier planetaries and smaller bands plus one less friction clutch and iron... It really sounds like a front band issue, not a solenoid problem now. I don't think putting on a trans cooler is going to fix the problem.

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Same difference, one is just as ****** as the other, one has crappier planetaries and smaller bands plus one less friction clutch and iron... It really sounds like a front band issue, not a solenoid problem now. I don't think putting on a trans cooler is going to fix the problem.

 

True but it couldn't hurt, and it's cheap enough that trying it first won't be that big of a deal financially. And if I do need a new transmission I'd need a cooler to go along with it anyways.

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True but it couldn't hurt, and it's cheap enough that trying it first won't be that big of a deal financially. And if I do need a new transmission I'd need a cooler to go along with it anyways.

 

Just because it has an internal problem doesn't mean you have to get a whole new trans.

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Just because it has an internal problem doesn't mean you have to get a whole new trans.

 

Yes but the quotes that I have gotten so far to fix or rebuild the transmission are averaging $2000

 

Nobody in Santa Cruz will even work on them

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To do the fluid change w/o dropping the pan all I used was

1. A 5 gallon bucket

2. 2 lengths of cooler line hose

 

then i just followed 88's instructions which basically were: disconnect the transmission cooler lines, stick the bucket underneath them, plug the hose on to each of the lines(make sure to tighten down with hose clamps). Dangle hose ends into bucket. Start up the engine and see which line is shooting ATF out. Turn engine off. Reconnect line that was not shooting ATF out. Turn engine on and let old ATF shoot out until sputters. Pour in 4-6 quarts of new ATF into the filler tube and repeat. Can do this as many times as you want. I did it twice for an 8 quart flush. Then you just reconnect your cooler lines and fill the transmission properly.

 

Took about a half hour I think, maybe 45 mins after messing around getting stuff out of cupboards etc.

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