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Stupid ricers


Kingman
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So your name is Jenny? I'd flip over someone writing on my windows.

 

James. The girls call me Jamesie :shrug:

 

I was mad, but I wasn't mad at the same time. I was mad until a while of seeing peoples expressions when they read what is wrote driving by, I let it go and started laughing.

 

Took about 5 min at the gas station with the washer thingys to get it all off

Edited by kingman92010
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I was at a sporting event once and it was late when we all got back and some girls took window chalk and completly covered all my windows with black window chalk and i had to get paper towels and water from in the school to get it off took about 2 hours i think i ot home at 10pm instead of the regular 8

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so did you find the leak?

 

I need to get to the store and get some brake cleaner, but it stopped leaking besides a drop or two overnight :shrug:

 

I think I would have to fill the diff back up for it to leak again

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  • 3 weeks later...

Does the front differential and CV joints ad any type of structural rigidity for the front suspension, or is there too many important parts attached to it? I'm basically asking if I can just drop it out so I can work on it outside of the truck, but still drive the truck around like normal.

 

Since they made 2WD Pathfinders, I would think it would be fine? :shrug:

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You would have to drop the crossmember, and remove the diff, then reinstall the crossmember to do that. For the CVs just gotta cap off the opening in the back of the spindle. But, yes, you can gut the front drivetrain and still drive the vehicle.

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You would have to drop the crossmember, and remove the diff, then reinstall the crossmember to do that. For the CVs just gotta cap off the opening in the back of the spindle. But, yes, you can gut the front drivetrain and still drive the vehicle.

 

Ok sweet. Thanks. What's the spindle? Pic?

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Got one CV axle out, all I had time for. It's actually in excellent shape. I'm surprised. And now that I know exactly what to do, the next one should barely take any time at all.

 

And does this look bent to anyone? If it is, that would explain all my issues with the bent assembly and my shock being dug into my UCA. I would think that piece would be evenly squared off...Red is where I THINK it should be, blue is the lines following what really is there.

 

bent-1.jpg

Edited by kingman92010
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The bump stop ..stop ( :shrug: ) looks OK, not sure on the LCA mount.

 

That's not my bump stop? That's what is attached to the frame that attaches to the LCA. For reference, to the left is the center link with the tie rod attached to it and moved out of the way

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I know exactly the parts I'm looking at....

 

 

I mean the part in the middle of your picture, all it is is a piece of metal that sticks out of the frame for the the lower bump stop to have something to bump into....and actually it holds the upper bumpstop which you are missing (that is what that hole is for on the top).

 

 

And like I said, the part below that, where the LCA mounts IDK if it is bent or not.

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I know exactly the parts I'm looking at....

I mean the part in the middle of your picture, all it is is a piece of metal that sticks out of the frame for the the lower bump stop to have something to bump into....and actually it holds the upper bumpstop which you are missing (that is what that hole is for on the top).

And like I said, the part below that, where the LCA mounts IDK if it is bent or not.

 

Oh! I thought you were referring to it differently than I was thinking. My bad. And I cant really tell what's what in your pic since it's so rusty and everything is sort of blending in...lol

 

And, I see you managed to get the tie rod end to come off the wheel assembly. Mine refused to come off. Was yours easy to get off?

Edited by kingman92010
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And, I see you managed to get the tie rod end to come off the wheel assembly. Mine refused to come off. Was yours easy to get off?

 

Yep, loosen the nut and tap the side of the "wheel assembly" where it goes through (not the tie rod) with a hammer till it pops loose. It can take a few good smacks, but they'll pop.

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Yep, loosen the nut and tap the side of the "wheel assembly" where it goes through (not the tie rod) with a hammer till it pops loose. It can take a few good smacks, but they'll pop.

 

Oh. Sh!t, I was hammering on the bottom of the tie rod. I was scared of damaging anything so I stopped and gave up. I'll do that on the other side tomorrow.

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Oh. Sh!t, I was hammering on the bottom of the tie rod.

 

 

:blink:

 

Hope you didn't mangle it, never tap the threaded end of things, they'll mushroom and you'll never thraed a nut on it again (unless you are really good with a thread die).

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:blink:

 

Hope you didn't mangle it, never tap the threaded end of things, they'll mushroom and you'll never thraed a nut on it again (unless you are really good with a thread die).

 

No, thankfully I didn't. That's why I stopped before I messed anything up.

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:blink:

 

Hope you didn't mangle it, never tap the threaded end of things, they'll mushroom and you'll never thraed a nut on it again (unless you are really good with a thread die).

 

 

if this is your last resort, you can prevent the mushrooming by leaving a nut on the threading and tapping on it. you still shouldn't take a 20lb sledge to it, but it will protect the bolt from a few good whacks from a basic hammer.

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Also, is that black thing that looks like a CV boot the bump stop? Or did you just happen to set the CV boot there?

 

The black thing on the LCA, yeah, it is a generic bolt on bump stop. The stock ones fell off.

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if this is your last resort, you can prevent the mushrooming by leaving a nut on the threading and tapping on it. you still shouldn't take a 20lb sledge to it, but it will protect the bolt from a few good whacks from a basic hammer.

 

And mushroom the nut....

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