azscott Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 (edited) After spending oh...3 months reading as much as I could on the ups and downs and benefits of a BL verses SL I still have a couple questions. While there are many threads on what the gains are in any type of lift I am looking for the side affects and the related fixes that should be planned (if any) for a suspension lift. So first off I was planning on have a Calmini 3" SL put in....I can't do it myself do to time and more so..lack of tools and space in my dinky garage. FIne....the 4x4 shop said they would instal the kit ( I supply the kit) and do a full Alignment for $370.00. That will work for me. However what are the considerations that need to be looked at when doing this. At some point it will have an adverse effect on steering and possibly CV joints...depending on how much lift and type of offroading. For me I will be using this as a DD as well ass offroad use. However, I am not rock climbing.....I am using it to access areas on unimproved dirt roads....or basically general off road apps. What should I look at or watch out for with the lift...do i need to think about any stearing upgrades or is this more of an issue with hard core rock crawling. Nothing worse than spending money to do a mod and then finding out there are several others that need to be considered to counter side affects. I could not find a good thread on this? Or...is a BL a betetr idea...I need clearance over rocks...huge wash outs and such yet I need to drive this to work also. Scott Edited September 24, 2008 by azscott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 With any suspension lift, and consequently, bigger tires, you'll need upgraded steering. The stock crap can't handle larger tires, let alone the stock 31's on some WD21 Pathfinders Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azscott Posted September 24, 2008 Author Share Posted September 24, 2008 With any suspension lift, and consequently, bigger tires, you'll need upgraded steering. The stock crap can't handle larger tires, let alone the stock 31's on some WD21 Pathfinders Is thisa the centerlink upgrade? If so L&P is out...the only other I saw was Calmini.? I know that they sell just an idler arm brace to help....although I wonder if it is just a bandaid fix instead of just upgrading the whole thing? I have an 87 Pathy with Sport package so it has stock 31's which I will keep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 If you crank the t-bars too much, you may have problems with the cv's or boots. I lowered mine about 1 inch and quit having issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 Is thisa the centerlink upgrade? If so L&P is out...the only other I saw was Calmini.? I know that they sell just an idler arm brace to help....although I wonder if it is just a bandaid fix instead of just upgrading the whole thing?I have an 87 Pathy with Sport package so it has stock 31's which I will keep. From what I have heard, is that the Calmini steering system is good, but expensive. You may want to look into a HooHa centerlink. He has a website, but I cant remember what it is at the moment. Much cheaper though in price. Still, I think the idler arm brace is a must. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azscott Posted September 24, 2008 Author Share Posted September 24, 2008 From what I have heard, is that the Calmini steering system is good, but expensive. You may want to look into a HooHa centerlink. He has a website, but I cant remember what it is at the moment. Much cheaper though in price. Still, I think the idler arm brace is a must. Took a few searches on google was tough to find his website...but it is linked below. Much cheaper than a Calmini solution...about a 1/3. http://grassroots4x4.com/index.php?option=...ct&Itemid=3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 yeah, thats Hoohaa! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 I'm running the HOOHAA setup and steering has been allot more responsive and less play in the wheel since I installed it. You also want to check your Compression/Tensoin rod bushings, or more-so the cheap metal cups they are seated into. once the cups wear out the rod will start to elongate the hole causing slight changes in alignment as you go over bumps. have a bearing race or a 2" pipe weled on both sides to keep them in place. To reduce the wear on the CV's you can get a diff drop kit form energy suspension(they used to make it for SLR). its not on their site but the part number should be arrond here if you search. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 Actually I think a slight crank on the T-bars (not so much that you need aftermarket UCAs) and some lift/ JGC springs in the rear and you'll still have a strong enough system with 31s for what it sounds like you'll be doing. Then add a BL to get your rockers up out of the way. I've seen more carnage from high SLed (W)D-21s than non SLed ones on simple obsticles. Even with aftermarket CLs, you use the same Tie Rods and they are what like to bend into pretzels, especially at the angles they get put into with a SL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 (edited) i have the calmini steering kit on my truck and it has worked great this season, but i have only run 3 or 4 trails so far with the 33" tires. I lucked out and found a used kit on the 4x4parts.com board for $300. If i didn't find that deal, i most likely would have went with hoohaa's product. I haven't heard anything bad about it at all. If you are going to wheel your truck on rocky terrain, consider buying some sort of skid plates before you get the lift. I will buy the armor first with the next truck i build up (unless i buy another pathfinder ) GrimGreg's suggestion is the most cost-effect solution to getting a little lift out of your suspension. Just don't raise the front end too high or you run into all sorts of problems from alignment to premature steering and cv joint damage. Edited September 24, 2008 by skrillaguerilla Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azscott Posted September 24, 2008 Author Share Posted September 24, 2008 Well is it smarter to just do a body lift. It would seem this would not do much for clearance unless you put bigger tires..which i am not intending on.....would look cool....but looks don't get me over rocks. It is a sort of dilema....gain clearance and some articulation...loose longevity on some drive train parts. I suppose BL would help to keep the front tires from bottoming on the fenders which is half my issue...and I do not want to just crank up the T-bars as a sole fix. is there an advantage to just doing a BL...besides looking cool...? scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 Like I said, it will get your body work up higher away from being so easily rock damaged. BTW, you will not gain ANY articulation from any SL, if anything you can loose some in the rear (thicker/taller springs can't compress as much). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 yep, you can 'unlock' a bit more travel out of the rear end by adding some longer shocks and removing the rear sway bar, but I don't think there is a kit out there that will give the trucks more articulation. You can make longer rear links like some other members have done. get some under armor and sliders.. then you don't need the clearance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azscott Posted September 24, 2008 Author Share Posted September 24, 2008 Like I said, it will get your body work up higher away from being so easily rock damaged. BTW, you will not gain ANY articulation from any SL, if anything you can loose some in the rear (thicker/taller springs can't compress as much). Good information....I appreciate all of this. I do not plan on putting my Path to extremes....we abuse ATV's for that...however we are not just 4x4ing on simple dirt roads.....usually the toughest is having to divert through dry creek beds and runnig up them for a few miles usually only presents moderate size rockage:-) Maybe a mild T-bar crank....a BL and some JGC springs would be enough? Again I appreciate any input. Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 Maybe a mild T-bar crank....a BL and some JGC springs would be enough? Yes, probably just fine... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azscott Posted September 24, 2008 Author Share Posted September 24, 2008 yep, you can 'unlock' a bit more travel out of the rear end by adding some longer shocks and removing the rear sway bar, but I don't think there is a kit out there that will give the trucks more articulation. You can make longer rear links like some other members have done. get some under armor and sliders.. then you don't need the clearance Speaking of under armor and sliders...is there a link for skid plates for the Pathfinder.....I have looked quite a bit and have had a hard time finding either sliders or under armor for the older Paths. I saw Calmini had some plates but was not sure if those were only for use with their crossmember replacements or not. I know many make their own. scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91PathSE Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 I just did the JGC lift and thats all you need with 31's ...Just put a decent pair of rock sliders on and its a done deal...real nice and easy. No bl needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azscott Posted September 24, 2008 Author Share Posted September 24, 2008 I just did the JGC lift and thats all you need with 31's ...Just put a decent pair of rock sliders on and its a done deal...real nice and easy. No bl needed. Yah I may go that route...I really do not want to start introducing excessive wear and failure when i drive it daily for work also. So JGC springs in the rear and crank the front T-bars up a bit but not enough to require new arms. scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91PathSE Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 I think thats the best way to go for mild offroading...but even stock I went through things with bald tires that lifted Jeeps Yota's with brand new mud dtires were having problems....So I would go with just the JGC with 31's and a set of sliders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 I used cutting boards and self tapping bolts for skids on my 88. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91PathSE Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 Did it work??? And where did you use them??? What kind of cutting board?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azscott Posted September 25, 2008 Author Share Posted September 25, 2008 I used cutting boards and self tapping bolts for skids on my 88. ...Huh.....cutting boards...pretty sharp idea....I assume you refer to the thick plastic type obviously. Will have to look at that......did I see you mention that in another thread...seems like it sounds familiar now? Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 Yeah, I've mentioned them before, The one over (under) the exhaust crossover pipe finally split, but it took 2 years to do so. At first it just molded its self in place from the heat. Even split I think it would have saved my tranny pan from a rock hit. They are nice because they are cheap, light and easy to cut or drill, not to mention take a licking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 I have to chime in here... What you want to use is UHMW PE (Ultra High Molecular Weight PlolyEthethylene) Here is an example... http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXN...PMT4NO=50551935 I made a front skid plate that JJ big shoe is using, seems to work well. You can heat it to bend it with out harm, but it has memory and will try to spring back until it cools. It is a tough polymer that will last as long as you mount it well. I am considering making some for people now that I have a straight Pathy to use for fitment, but that will be some time off. I could have sworn I did a write up on how to make them... The problem with 'cutting boards' is unless it is well labeled, you don't know what you are getting, but the up side is that when you roll, you can cut tomatoes... B Found something... http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...031&hl=UHMW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now