Jump to content

Instrument Cluster in a 95


Precise1
 Share

Recommended Posts

Ok, the Chiltons manual just describes the removal, showing pictures of pre-94 parts. The Haynes manual will be useful next time I have to take a crap. The FSM PDF gives a much better disassembly diagram, BUT it doesn't answer my question. From what I can tell, the tach/speedo/etc is all one unit, correct?

I have a 95XE manual with the speedo failing and a 95XE auto with the tach failing. Is it possible to combine the two without being a circuit board engineer? I'm not wild about getting the cluster from a junk yard as the failure rate seems high and it probably doesn't help if it has been in an accident. I haven't found one on line yet with out going to a stealership. No one is parting out a 94-95 right now and I prefer to save as much $ on mods...

 

Anyway, any input?? Thanks.

 

B

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First I'd like to note that I've yet to completely disassemble the cluster in my 95.

However, up until now EVERYTHING in my Pathy has been electricly identical to my 240sx, which I have.

 

The cluster isn’t too awfully difficult to get out. Though, there’s lots of screwdriver work getting to it… Then you’ve got to contort into odd positions to get the harness loose.

Once you get it free, take off the clear plastic (be careful not to break the tabs) and remove the black sheet behind it, you should find that all of the gauges are separate. They simply unplug from the white plastic base and the circuit board (which is actually more like a floppy piece of blue vinyl with gold wiring in it).

 

So, given the manual and auto have the same set-up (verify the PNs on the back of the parts), you be able to just split the good gauges between the two and plug them back into the base.

 

That is, if the cluster is anything like the 240... Good news is that you only have to take one out to find out if I'm right or not. Bad is that, if I'm wrong, you're back to square one.

 

Good luck! :broken:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^^^^ What he said. Taking the tach out of the one that works and putting into the cluster with the bad one should only take you half an hour or so, and that includes removing both clusters. FWIW, I took the tach out of my 95SE manual and put it in my 95LE auto and it works just fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

up until now EVERYTHING in my Pathy has been electricly identical to my 240sx, which I have.

That is interesting and potentially quite useful!!

 

I took the tach out of my 95SE manual and put it in my 95LE auto and it works just fine.

Thats what I was hoping to hear.

 

Thanks all, thats exactly what I needed!! :beer:

 

B

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, I'm pleased to say that it only took me about 15 minutes to remove the cluster assembly out of the old truck. I'm cautious and while I have only disassembled a few dashes, this is the first one that didn't seem to be designed and assembled by Keebler elves on crack. I expect the swap out tomorrow to go smoothly... Looking forward to being able to see what the automagic tranny is doing, and hey, I think I'll grab a few bulbs for good luck... :D

 

B

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Once you get it free, take off the clear plastic (be careful not to break the tabs) and remove the black sheet behind it, you should find that all of the gauges are separate. They simply unplug from the white plastic base and the circuit board (which is actually more like a floppy piece of blue vinyl with gold wiring in it).

 

Actually, on the '95 at least, I found there was no need to take off the clear plastic as it is clipped to a black housing (also clipped on). Merely unclip the black housing took the whole front off and the gauges were exposed. Undoing the clips took all the finger strength I could muster and broke several nails, even with some small screw drivers to help as wedged. These things are on tight!! I found the bottom easier to release and when they were all done, lifting up releades the top ones. Just make sure not to crack the clear plastic; th clock and odometer control arms are still sticking through it. Once that is off, the screws on the back are self explanitory. I tightened them all as they were relatively loose. We will see if that cracks the plastic or if I just made up for the last 13 years/100k miles of wear...

 

I'll post a pict of things tomorrow, just in case it helps someone else.

 

BTW, the tach from the manual '95XE is working fine in the auto '95XE. :D

 

B

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey I'm just glad you're still around. I was sure you were going to clip that red wire that I forgot to mention.

No need to explain it now, but it can best be summed up in 3 words... Es-Plo-Gen.

 

 

Did it still have the blue, floppy vinyl thing for a circut board?

I wonder if the 240 gauges will swap like this. If so, that might make the Maxima, Altima and Sentra candidate donors as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...