westslope Posted July 13, 2008 Share Posted July 13, 2008 I removed the panel from the cargo area. I can see 4 wires plus a black wire that looks like a ground wire given the way it is simply attached to the fuel gauge sender unit. Now I'm feeling a tad stumped. I wish I had detailed diagrams and instructions. How do I clean it up? I presume I should clean it before any checking. If the connection is lousy because of corrosion, then how do I clean up and re-connect? Is a soldering gun safe to use, with a tank partially full of gasoline? I'm focussing on the sender unit because all other instruments (except the fuel gauge) work fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 14, 2008 Share Posted July 14, 2008 Try this and see if it still works... http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...t=0&start=0 I'm a little confused as to what the problem is or what you are trying to do. Check the sending unit for function? Pictures are a great help... As for the soldering, yes, that should be fine near the tank. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted July 14, 2008 Share Posted July 14, 2008 As for the soldering, yes, that should be fine near the tank. Assuming that you are using a soldering "iron" and NOT a mini torch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westslope Posted July 14, 2008 Author Share Posted July 14, 2008 Try this and see if it still works...http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...t=0&start=0 Downloaded the 1994 manuals a couple of days ago. Glad to have it but I did not find a detailed diagram of the fuel gauge sending unit. I'm a little confused as to what the problem is or what you are trying to do. Check the sending unit for function? Pictures are a great help... As for the soldering, yes, that should be fine near the tank. The fuel gauge is erratic. It starts out full, then dives quickly to 1/4 tank and stays there until it slowly goes to zero. All the other instruments work so I am assuming a problem with the sending unit, possibly the ground. The ground connection is heavily corroded. I'm afraid of breaking off the tab as opposed to pulling it off. If that happens how do I re-attach? Hence the query about the safety of using a soldering iron above a partially full tank of gasoline. RedPath88: If I have to solder, it will be done with a small, simple soldering gun. Thanks to both of you for feedback on soldering near the fuel tank. Pictures might be a good idea. I'll try to take some and post tomorrow. ================================================= On a related subject, I usually try to thoroughly wash the pathie everytime it goes off-road at a self-serve, coin-operated high-pressure hose station. It would appear that I am not being as effective as I would like to think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 14, 2008 Share Posted July 14, 2008 I understand now, sorry for being so thick. I'd say you are on the right path... Of course I was implying a soldering iron, one would have to be foolish to play with naked flame by the gas tank!! B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westslope Posted July 14, 2008 Author Share Posted July 14, 2008 Pictures follow. Rear cargo area. the windex bottle contains tap water for rinsing the resut remover gel. A closer look at the cargo area. Note the rust hole in the NE corner. Close up shot of the heavily corroded ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westslope Posted July 14, 2008 Author Share Posted July 14, 2008 Question: Does the rust removal gel pose a threat to animals and children if diluted and dumped on the car port asphalt? Just checking. =================================== Next? Clean up the ground and try to test with a wire to another surface. Now, that I have some reassurance that a soldering iron will not blow up the gas tank, I'll get more aggressive with wire brushes, emery cloth and more rust remover gel applications. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westslope Posted July 15, 2008 Author Share Posted July 15, 2008 Can anybody direct me to a diagram that explains those electrical leads from the fuel gauge sender unit please. Have looked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 Sheit, I can't even find my manual right now... Calling mws (Martin)!!! B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M in KC Posted August 21, 2008 Share Posted August 21, 2008 Westslope did you ever get this sorted? I think my sending unit or at least the float is partially filled with fuel causing my gauage to read 3/4 full even after I have topped off the tank. I don't have the erratic reading like you described just a perpetually low reading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted August 21, 2008 Share Posted August 21, 2008 Close up shot of the heavily corroded ground. For the ground wire, snap it off, and crimp a ring terminal on it. Then remove one of the screws, and attach it there. That's what I've done, and it works fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M in KC Posted August 21, 2008 Share Posted August 21, 2008 Simon what were your symptoms (I'm assuming they were fuel gauge related) that you cured by relocate the ground wire? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted August 21, 2008 Share Posted August 21, 2008 (edited) No no no....not guage related. I actually had the main power wire to the fuel pump corrode and break off. Drilled a hole, spliced the wire to the pump itself, then moved the ground. I sealed the hole with high temp, gas resistant sealant. I'd pull the sender and check the float for fuel inside it. If not, just give it a little bend toward the bottom of the tank. Then it should come up to full when your tank is full. Edited August 21, 2008 by Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M in KC Posted August 21, 2008 Share Posted August 21, 2008 That will probably be the right approach initially as a new replacement sending unit approaches $300 USD. Ouch. Thanks for your input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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