DTE Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 I just did a quick search and couldn't find the write up for an R50 lift install.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 The Jeep guys would be clueless about the front struts and IFS, but they could probably help you with the rear suspension. You're probably better off taking it to a brake/suspension/alignment shop and asking them to replace your struts and "old sagging" OEM front springs with your new, customer-supplied parts. Remember: It's not a "lift!" It's just replacing worn out sagging coil springs. The instant you mention "suspension lift" to your average mechanic, the price gets jacked up or they refuse the job. Note: Pep Boys charges around $40 per strut to replace them (with possibly a little higher fee to also replace the springs), so I would not expect other mechanics to charge hundreds of dollars for the same job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted August 6, 2008 Author Share Posted August 6, 2008 I knew my question would be confusing. The angle of the new bolt going in is too sharp and I cannot just push it in, it seems like I need to take off the strut mount bolt to fit it. Look at the pic to see the angle I am talking about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted August 6, 2008 Author Share Posted August 6, 2008 Also, is there anything special about the nuts on the steering knuckle? I got a 22mm socket in the half inch drive size, and with the impact gun its not even moving... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csutke Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 try using a breaker/cheater bar, and PBlast them for a while before trying to remove them, if that doesnt work then your gonna have to grind/cut them out. as for the bolt in your pic you will have to compress the spring, remove the retaining nut and then but the longer bolts in to the mount. Isnt lifting these fun? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted August 6, 2008 Author Share Posted August 6, 2008 Well my uncle has a 3/4" drive impact gun. I will pick up a 22 mm socket to fit that tomorrow, and if that doesn't work I dont think my lift will happen. I am not messing with cutting those nuts and bolts... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronin152 Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 The Jeep guys would be clueless about the front struts and IFS, but they could probably help you with the rear suspension. You're probably better off taking it to a brake/suspension/alignment shop and asking them to replace your struts and "old sagging" OEM front springs with your new, customer-supplied parts. Remember: It's not a "lift!" It's just replacing worn out sagging coil springs. The instant you mention "suspension lift" to your average mechanic, the price gets jacked up or they refuse the job. Note: Pep Boys charges around $40 per strut to replace them (with possibly a little higher fee to also replace the springs), so I would not expect other mechanics to charge hundreds of dollars for the same job. Well what I have heard most from people is that they know how to do jeep suspension but then when I tell them I have struts they say like oh yeah I have done a ford escort or some other cars struts? So I mean they have had strut experience but not with my specific truck you know what I mean. With pep boys what kind of service are they giving you for $40? A hackjob? or good work? I am located in PA near Pgh. Thanks for all the help. Is this all I need for my lift (this is the stuff I have let me know if I am missing anything or are there any little things I need like nuts or bolts which might be rusty and need new ones) 4 coils 2 struts 2 shocks 2 strut mounts 2 strut bearings 2 strut boots Should I have gotten new bolts for the two holes in the bottom of the strut and should I get new nuts? Dean what was that trick you were saying about lining up the struts with the V or something? Dean does the flat side of the spring sit on the bottom or top when installing? Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 You should get new bolts and nuts only if the current ones are severely rusted or if you bugger 'em up during removal. Here's the way the strut must align: The flat part of the spring goes up. When you try to place the spring in the strut's spring pan, it will be quite obvious how they need to be oriented. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverPath Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 Well what I have heard most from people is that they know how to do jeep suspension but then when I tell them I have struts they say like oh yeah I have done a ford escort or some other cars struts? So I mean they have had strut experience but not with my specific truck you know what I mean. With pep boys what kind of service are they giving you for $40? A hackjob? or good work? I am located in PA near Pgh. Thanks for all the help. Is this all I need for my lift (this is the stuff I have let me know if I am missing anything or are there any little things I need like nuts or bolts which might be rusty and need new ones) 4 coils 2 struts 2 shocks 2 strut mounts 2 strut bearings 2 strut boots Should I have gotten new bolts for the two holes in the bottom of the strut and should I get new nuts? Dean what was that trick you were saying about lining up the struts with the V or something? Dean does the flat side of the spring sit on the bottom or top when installing? Thank you! Hey Ronin, Im curious if you dont mind me asking. What price are you looking at for all these items? I would like to start saving me pennies so I can lift my rig in the future. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronin152 Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 Hey Ronin, Im curious if you dont mind me asking. What price are you looking at for all these items? I would like to start saving me pennies so I can lift my rig in the future. Thanks No Problem man 2 KYB Struts cost me 124 shipped from (www.performancecenter.com) 2 Rancho 9000XL shocks and 4 coils springs cost me 598 shipped from (www.4x4parts.com) The pacakge was damaged so I got free shipping so my total was 538 2 Strut mounts 50.00 2 strut boots 28.32 2 strut bearings 59.84 Plus shipping 9.98 So that makes my total 809 Other things to keep in mind when getting the lift are: camber bolts, alignment, and probaly new tires. So your probaly looking at well over 1,600 to do everything right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronin152 Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 No Problem man2 KYB Struts cost me 124 shipped from (www.performancecenter.com) 2 Rancho 9000XL shocks and 4 coils springs cost me 598 shipped from (www.4x4parts.com) The pacakge was damaged so I got free shipping so my total was 538 2 Strut mounts 50.00 2 strut boots 28.32 2 strut bearings 59.84 Plus shipping 9.98 So that makes my total 809 Other things to keep in mind when getting the lift are: camber bolts, alignment, and probaly new tires. So your probaly looking at well over 1,600 to do everything right. Thanks Dean. Do you know how good pep boys quality of service is? Are the camber adjustment bolts from summit ok to get? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 Dude IS adding strut spacers and it makes sense that new long bolts do not fit going up...the clearance between the strut insulator parts and the coil with its bushing is really tight. If he hammered out the current studs, they may not even come out of their holes...they may be punded loose, but never be able to get removed due to these clearances...so yes you will have to compress--remove strut retaining nut--remove studs from little insulator hat looking part to drill out slightly and add new bolts --re assemble--install w/new strut spacer. Here is the big question----XPLORx4 (and others) where in the strut assembly did you install your spacer? ---- I added mine inside of the strut assembly rather than on top. My way indeed adds more support to the spacer however causes me to top out the strut quicker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted August 6, 2008 Author Share Posted August 6, 2008 So I assume this means there is nothing special about the lower strut mount bolts? They just look different but there is no key? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 They should give you no problems...are you using camber bolts? Why did you want to remove the steering knuckle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted August 6, 2008 Author Share Posted August 6, 2008 They should give you no problems...are you using camber bolts? Why did you want to remove the steering knuckle? the steering knuckle i refer to is where the lower strut mount attaches... and damn these springs are hard to compress....I have the spring compressed as far as it will go with thise spring compressor and its stilll not short enough...I think Im going to rent another set to try and grab the rest of the coil... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HitTheTrails Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 (edited) Well my uncle has a 3/4" drive impact gun. I will pick up a 22 mm socket to fit that tomorrow, and if that doesn't work I dont think my lift will happen. I am not messing with cutting those nuts and bolts... Sometimes it's easier to break things free by just using a large breaker bar, and possibly a pipe on the end to give you even more torque. I have had trouble removing things with big impact guns and then finally gotten them off with breaker bar... Oh, and like others said, don't forget to use PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench or whatever your favourite penetrating oil is. Edited August 6, 2008 by HitTheTrails Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HitTheTrails Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 Here is the big question----XPLORx4 (and others) where in the strut assembly did you install your spacer? ---- I added mine inside of the strut assembly rather than on top. My way indeed adds more support to the spacer however causes me to top out the strut quicker. I added mine on top of the whole strut assembly, between the strut mount and the truck itself. This way it pushes down the whole assembly and does cause the strut to top out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted August 6, 2008 Author Share Posted August 6, 2008 I added mine on top of the whole strut assembly, between the strut mount and the truck itself. This way it pushes down the whole assembly and does cause the strut to top out. Thats what I am doing as well... in regards to your breaker bar comment, that was my last try if the 3/4" drive impact gun did not work, but it made short work of those...So I have the new strut/spring combo ready to go in, I am just waiting until after my Dr. appointment today and then I will be good to take out the top nuts and the lower bolt and remove the old struts and put in the new. Then onto the rear. BTW: for the nut I had stripped up in the engine bay I just drilled right through the middle of the bolt, starting with a small drill bit and working my way up to one just as large as the bolt itself and it came right off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 (edited) the big question----XPLORx4 (and others) where in the strut assembly did you install your spacer? ---- I do not have spacers in my front suspension at all, and I have never condoned their use in 4WD R50's. The use of spacers between the strut and body will result in destroyed CV axles when the suspension is fully extended because the max operating angle of the CV shaft is exceeded. Installing a spacer inside the strut is no different than installing a stiffer spring, except that with a spacer, the strut can no longer compress fully, and the coil spring will bottom out before the bump stop is reached. IMO, it's best to completely avoid the use of spacers, unless you never drive where you might lift one or both front tires off the ground. Edited August 6, 2008 by XPLORx4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now