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lock right experts help please


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Just got done installing my lock right on a 95 SE.

 

It doesn't work right and was hoping to find someone to help diagnose.

 

The locker went in well and I followed various write-ups (from this forum) and lock right instructions to the letter, except I didn't measure the spider shaft gaps they talked about in the lock right booklet (it was very confusing and I couldn't figure out exactly what was supposed to be measured). From what I can tell, the only reason for it not to work would be wear in the thrust washers and side gears. However, everything in the diff looked practically brand new, so I figured it was OK.

 

The problem is that the unit is locked all the time. It doesn't ratchet or click like it is supposed to. It acts like a spool.

 

I am going to take it apart this weekend and try to see anything obvious that I did wrong. I was hoping any here knowlegeable could offer some suggestions on things that could go wrong, or problems to look for.

 

thanks,

 

Doug

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I went through the exact same thing a little while ago. Everything looked fine but it had a lot of backlash, so I had that setup at a shop but it did not change it at all. I read somewhere else that if you have an auto tranny, it will always be locked, dont know what you have though.

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I went through the exact same thing a little while ago. Everything looked fine but it had a lot of backlash, so I had that setup at a shop but it did not change it at all. I read somewhere else that if you have an auto tranny, it will always be locked, dont know what you have though.

 

Mine is an automatic. What did you do to fix yours? Or is it still locked all the time?

 

Doug

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Did you get all the springs installed? Did you get the backlash correct? If the backlash is wrong it could create drag on the ring gear and keep tension on the locker. If you acclerate around corners, it will try to lock. So make sure you coast around a corner(no acclerating) and see if it clicks.

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Mine is an auto and when it was new, it did tend to stick locked. A few turns around a concrete parking lot broke it loose, be prepared for a scary noise when it does. ;)

 

88, how long did that take to correct itself? I will give it more time and see if it gets better.

 

5523, I think I got all the springs installed correctly. I didn't change the backlash, but did not check to see if it was right either. I ahd to buy a used third member from a junkyard because mine was a LSD. I don't know how good the one I bought was, so I'll check it when I take everything apart again.

 

Thanks for your help.

 

Doug

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88, how long did that take to correct itself? I will give it more time and see if it gets better.

 

5523, I think I got all the springs installed correctly. I didn't change the backlash, but did not check to see if it was right either. I ahd to buy a used third member from a junkyard because mine was a LSD. I don't know how good the one I bought was, so I'll check it when I take everything apart again.

 

Thanks for your help.

 

Doug

 

try new thrust washers, I had the same issue.

 

http://nissannut.com/projects/lock_right_h233b

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Nissan nut,

 

How did you know what size thrust washers to use? I thought they come in many sizes. Maybe I'm wrong.

 

Thanks,

Doug

 

There is a procedure in the FSM to find out which thickness you need. I just guessed and ordered the middle size. Worked perfect. 100% differrence. I could not unlock lockright on the bench or vehicle until i put in the new washers. I took it in/out a few times trying different things. I kept breaking those pins. This was my 5th lock right install. Never had this issue before. I currently have a lock right in each front dana 44. I had one in the rear of the pathy.

 

The washers are $11 each. You need 2.

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There is a procedure in the FSM to find out which thickness you need. I just guessed and ordered the middle size. Worked perfect. 100% differrence. I could not unlock lockright on the bench or vehicle until i put in the new washers. I took it in/out a few times trying different things. I kept breaking those pins. This was my 5th lock right install. Never had this issue before. I currently have a lock right in each front dana 44. I had one in the rear of the pathy.

 

The washers are $11 each. You need 2.

 

Thank you very much. I will try it.

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When I installed my ARB I bought about 70 bucks in shims. I bought the size that were in there and 2 sizes up and 2 sizes down. I did this cause I was also replacing All the bearings and wanted to make sure I had all the shims to do it right. It was the pinion shims that broke the bank. So I have a bunch of extra factory shims That I will never use.

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When I installed my ARB I bought about 70 bucks in shims. I bought the size that were in there and 2 sizes up and 2 sizes down. I did this cause I was also replacing All the bearings and wanted to make sure I had all the shims to do it right. It was the pinion shims that broke the bank. So I have a bunch of extra factory shims That I will never use.

 

You should not need to adjust pinion depth when replacing a carrier. Most gear installs you can reuse the same shims.

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Your welcome, I bet that will fix it. Let us know..

 

Middle size shims ordered. 13$ apiece now. There are only three sizes available for the 4 spider open diff from Nissan. I picked the middle size so I hope that works. I will post the results when I get them in.

 

Doug

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Middle size shims ordered. 13$ apiece now. There are only three sizes available for the 4 spider open diff from Nissan. I picked the middle size so I hope that works. I will post the results when I get them in.

 

Doug

 

All dealers set there own prices.

 

http://www.nissanparts.cc/cart/?pn=38424-t5001

 

$10 each here. This is the middle size I ordered.

 

new_thrust_washers.jpg

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You should not need to adjust pinion depth when replacing a carrier. Most gear installs you can reuse the same shims.

 

there seemed to be a lot of play in the pinion so we tore it apart to check it, my shims and spacer was scored pretty bad. The PO had the abs sensor replaced and I don't think they tightened the nut up correctly. I replaced all the bearings since I had it apart just to make sure nothing else got damaged. we set the preload per factory service manual, it was tedious, but we got it right in the end (no pun intended)

 

Mark

Edited by msavides
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