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ILoveMyPatty
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Like I said though, be sure to check for:

 

Fuel

Spark

Air

Compression

 

Make sure you are getting those before worrying about timing... from what you're describing I'd bet it is the dizzy, but it's worth a shot.

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The Pathy is aliiiiive!!!

It'ss allliiiiiiiiiivveeee!!

 

Doesn't sound to purrdy (mean exhaust leak that will only be fixed by...... THORLEYS) Muhuahaha.

The pipes that bolt up to the manifolds, I've got two bolts that sheered off when I was disconnecting the old motor. Now I'm a bolt short on each side, which makes it sound like a diesel.

 

I'd like to thank everyone that helped me out with this swap, and Mr. Jim for creating NPORA. Thanks a million, I wouldn't have even thought about attempting this swap with my experience, without everyone at NPORA.

 

Thanks again everyone. :D

Edited by ILoveMyPatty
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Spark timing was wayyy off.

I didn't set it to TDC and reset the dizzy, I just rotated it about 180 degrees and it runs now. Doesn't run too well though. She sounds like a tractor with the exhaust the way it is... Thinkin about running into town and getting a set of Pacesetters or something... heh....

 

Isn't TDC marked on the crank pulley?

Edited by ILoveMyPatty
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Haven't taken her for a tour yet, nope. I have to get the tractor into the shop to move a welding fab table that I had all my parts and whatnot on, infront of the Pathy before I can get 'er out. Big steel table that's too heavy to move with manpower. Our neighbor is using the tractor right now so I'm outa luck for a bit.

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How long has it been sitting? Also you might want to update your sig :aok: if you send me some pics of your truck i could photoshop one up if you don't have photoshop

Edited by redfinder
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Ignore :stickwack:

 

Get a timing light on it. and rotate the distributor see how close you can get it... I had mine set exactly like Aarons manual shots and it ran like crap... rotated the dizzy one way and it died... the other and it ran a little better...

 

Thats going to tell you which way you have rotate the dizzy when you lift up the assembly and re-set it back in the hole... be careful when lifting it up, it will rotate as you lift it...

 

Use a Sharpe to draw a line on the out side of the cap on the #1 position down on to the base of the distributor, pull the cap and then draw that line inside the base.... VV

 

copied from K9's post

check TDC by pulling out plug 1 and putting a long screwdriver down the hole. disconnect the coil and hand crank the engine until the piston is at the top. Check the distributer. It will either be at post 1 or 180 degrees off.

 

If its pointing at #3/#4 crank it around so it pointing at the line you drew... lift it up slowly and move it 1 click(easier to explain verbally in my current condition) All these years and never did drugs...

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How long has it been sitting? Also you might want to update your sig if you send me some pics of your truck i could photoshop one up if you don't have photoshop

 

Almost a year, while I drove an '01 F-350 with the 7.3 Powerstroke, 6 speed, crew cab long box... This is gonna be a huge change... heh.

 

Casey.T, I'll borrow a buddys timing light, I have no idea how they work, but I'll figure it out.

 

I'm going to see if I can get my exhaust bolted up a little better, then mess with the dizzy. After I watch my coolant and add more when the t-stat opens up. :)

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yea, even a single gear off will cause you trouble with the distributer. You can get her to run but you won't be able to tune it into the required timing. Go slow when removing and reinstalling the dist. It's easy to fruckup.

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She runs a little better now, I loosened the bolt and turned the dizzy a little bit to find where it runs the best. She idles smooth, with no sputtering, but it's idling at about 1200RPM and blowing white exhaust.... Interesting

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glad you got it running...white exhaust may not be bad (only if its steam)....Personally I would get studs in those manifolds asap b/c you dont want to run the risk or warping the manifolds...also check that all the plug wires are tight...after I put wheelmans in one of hte plug wires got hit and was loose so it was running like junk

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Yep, all of the plug wires are snug. I'm in town right now so I'll see if I can pick up a couple exhaust studs and nuts.

 

I haven't been running it for extended periods of time, because I didnt want the manifolds to warp.

 

I hope to god that the white exhaust isn't anything to worry about... Maybe it's cause the fuel in my tank sat for so long and there's condensation in it. I should have drained it, but I didn't.

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She runs a little better now, I loosened the bolt and turned the dizzy a little bit to find where it runs the best. She idles smooth, with no sputtering, but it's idling at about 1200RPM and blowing white exhaust.... Interesting

How long did you run it for? If it didn't warm up it'll idle high like that and blow white out the tail pipe. My 93 does that as it sits for long periods of time.

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Now that I think about it, I didn't let it run long enough to warm up. I don't want to run her too long, with the exhaust the way it is. I'm sure that's what it is. They wouldn't have sold me an engine with a blown head gasket.

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if you had a blown head gasket, you would be generating big clouds. Been there. My pathy blows white for a bit after sitting for awhile. just steam as far as I'm concerned.

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condensation in exhaust etc. Also, if an engine has been sitting for a bit, there could also be some in the cylinders depending on open intakes and humidity at the time it was shut down.

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Well, I fixed most of the exhaust leak. She sounds ALOT better now. I've still got my 32x11.50 BFG muds on, driving it around the yard, haha. Turning sooo slowly cause they do rub. Maybe it's just because my drivers side fender isn't on all the way (I'm going to snorkel it so this doesn't happen again). Also, there are still a couple lines that go from my carbon canister that are not connected to anything. Unsure if this will make it run crappy or not, but she still runs a little rough (dizzy probably isnt set right still).

 

Could someone get me a picture and description of where the lines from the carbon canister go? I've looked at the vac line diagram in the haynes and I can't get anywhere.

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