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Parking Brake Cable Snapped


kitwulfen
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I own a 1990 Pathy and use it as my daily driver. A while back, I was engaging the parking brake and I felt the cable for it snap as I brought it up. So now my parking brake doesn't engage, and I need it working to pass VA state inspection.

 

How complicated is this to fix?

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That depends on where it has broken. IT's a 2 piece unit, 1 from the handle to about halfway back on the truck. That cable is easy to replace. At that point, it splits in to 2, and goes to both rear wheels. I can't comment on the difficulty of replacing that section, as I've never done it.

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Is this the same as the emergency brake cable? Mine has been broken since buying the pathy.

I tried going to Strauss Auto and asking for 'emergency brake cable', they said it's not in their system. Maybe they do, and I just got had a noob employee. Need to fix mines!

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That depends on where it has broken. IT's a 2 piece unit, 1 from the handle to about halfway back on the truck. That cable is easy to replace. At that point, it splits in to 2, and goes to both rear wheels. I can't comment on the difficulty of replacing that section, as I've never done it.

 

On mine (rear disc brakes) it is a 3 piece unit. one cable for each rear brake and one from the front brake lever.

 

try rockauto.com that is where I got mine( the 2 rear ones that is)

Mark

Edited by msavides
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Is this the same as the emergency brake cable? Mine has been broken since buying the pathy.

I tried going to Strauss Auto and asking for 'emergency brake cable', they said it's not in their system. Maybe they do, and I just got had a noob employee. Need to fix mines!

 

 

It's called a hand brake cable or parking brake cable.

 

It's not an "emergency brake" at all. :P Silly domestic car user! :P:D :D

 

CourtesyParts.com has the front half of the cable system for $55.57, the rear half depends on whether you have drum or disc rear brakes.

 

 

http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasite/kb_s...on=Go&cat=1

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To replace the one that goes into a drum:

 

Block the front wheels and raise the rear and pull the wheel off the side that is busted. Undo the mount to the underside of the body (2x12mm bolts IIRC), and uncouple the link between the L and R cables. Pull off the drum and disassemble the brake parts (good time to replace shoes and springs if needed). Unhook the end of the cable off the lever in the drum, watch out for the spring.

 

Now is the tricky part, the sheath that comes out of the back of the drum is a friction fit, so it needs to be tapped out with a dull chisel. There is a "bump" on the sheath that you can use the chisel on to tap it off. Once you get that loose you need to get the cable and seal out of the drum; push it as far into the hole in the back as you can by hand, then use a drift punch (about 3/16" or 1/4") and tap on the end of the cable to pop it through.

 

Assembly is about the same in reverse. The trickiest part is reseating the sheath into the back of the drum assembly, but it can be done by tapping the opposite direction on the "bump" with the chisel. :aok:

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Alright, I took a look and it's the cable going to the right rear that broke (rusted through), right at the junction where it attaches to the front cable.

 

I've got the following at my disposal:

 

1x 10 ton bottle jack.

2x 2 ton jackstands.

Small wrench set

Small socket set

Various other household tools (claw hammer, screw drivers, pliers, etc)

 

And I'm off work for the next week. I know how to change spark plugs/oil and such, but this seems to be just a level beyond that sort of thing.

 

Do it myself or pay a professional? Any NPORA members in NoVA that would care to lend a hand?

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the cable isnt hard to change...jack up rear end and set it on jackstands...remove the tires and brake drums (if they're stuck thers 2 tapped holes on each one that can be used to "jack" the drum loose...

 

Then follow the 2 cables up to where they join the single cable and loosen that up/remove it...that should release all the tension on the rear cables and you should be able to remove them fairly easily

 

I would do it myself unless the shop is going to do it for like $40

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Do it myself or pay a professional? Any NPORA members in NoVA that would care to lend a hand?

 

You should be fine, when I removed the used one I installed from a truck at the J-yard I had limited tools, you could probably do the whole job with nothing more than a good flat blade screw driver and a hammer.

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