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idles but.......


nissan4x4
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My pathfinder idles pretty good but you can not get it to go above 2,000 rpm it will start popping and eventually die.but it will idle forever. and when trying to accelerate and the pedal on the floor it only gets to 2,100 max and pops and slowly starts killing itself.oh and by the way it's a vg 30i. any suggestion would be appreciated very much. thanks ty

Edited by nissan4x4
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i Replaced the cap and rotor too it started with it not even starting the one day it started and ran really rough and died but i finally got it to idle by itself and it has no power i got it up to 2,000 rpm the other day to move it about 50 feet and it didn't even move. it died like it had no power at all like all the power it had was just to keep it running.Do you think the timing is off?

Edited by nissan4x4
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That's pretty hard to do with our distributor cap and rotor alone. Both have one way to go on with no rotational play in them.

 

Most engines are like that, but if the distrbutor mounting clamp is loose, then the whole distributor could rotate throwing the timing out. At least I have seen this happen on other vehicles. I don't know about his vg30, my pathy doesn't even have a distributor.

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Everything on mine is either rusted, corroded, or crusted with salt, mud, oil, AT fluid or all of the above. You need a jack-hammer, pressure washer and 50 gallon jug of PB Blaster just to attempt to work on it. :laugh:

 

I had it out and about today. it chilled out once it warmed up, but still felt kind of off, almost like it was trying to missfire here and there.

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same thing happened to mine i got a tune up they changed fuel filter rotor, cap plugs and wires then after that it wouldn't start. finally got it to start i have it in neutral if i ease on the gas itll go just past 2000rpms then sputter like your talking about or if i give it to much itll sputter and die no matter what. i had it checked out the retards said it much be my clutch but that doesnt explain why its doing it in neutral so im assuming something with the timing, fuel system, ignition im not sure maybe even fuel injectors but i dont see why any of those would stop working after those things were changed.

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i finally got it to run i here's how you do it: with the engine idling you loosen the bolt holding the distributor to the engine block loosen it just a little, the rotate the distributor till it sounds like it running smoother and not dieing and a then tighten it back up and take a test drive.

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Everything on mine is either rusted, corroded, or crusted with salt, mud, oil, AT fluid or all of the above. You need a jack-hammer, pressure washer and 50 gallon jug of PB Blaster just to attempt to work on it. :laugh:

 

 

i finally got it to run i here's how you do it: with the engine idling you loosen the bolt holding the distributor to the engine block loosen it just a little, the rotate the distributor till it sounds like it running smoother and not dieing and a then tighten it back up and take a test drive.

 

You did read my last post (quoted for you) right? Gimme a jackhammer and I might be able to find this bolt you speak of. B)

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  • 3 weeks later...

Try unplugging the throttle position sensor. When mine did that, I unplugged it and it immediately ran fine, telling me the sensor had gone bad.

I replaced it and everything has been fine since.

 

 

Craig

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