Power window motor

[The Pimpness Monster]

So,

 

I was tearing down my window motor to give a try to repairing it.

 

What I found was that the metal worm gear from the motor interacts with a plastic sprocket then translating to the square drive cam that operates the lift on the regulator.

 

I discovered that a single section on the plastic gear is what has the flaw...it slips on the teeth instead of turns. There is nothing visibly wrong, so must just have slightly worn a groove on those teeth. However, this gear is held to the assembly by a rubber/metal unit that I can't seem to separate.

 

Does anyone know a method for removing this rubber/metal like thing?

 

Or, perhaps a method of correcting the plastic gear? Some sort of epoxy maybe?

 

Any, and all ideas welcome.

 

Thanks.

[mws]

I have not had any problems with any of our power windows yet, so I do not know the exact answer.

 

However, on most vehicles, repairs involve replacing either the regulator assembly (which is the arm, big partial gear, and bracket) or the motor assembly (which usually includes the motor, all other gears, and housing).

 

It is not that often you can purchase just single gears. I have only encountered one exception, and that was on a Ford that stripped gears on such a frequent basis they are still mass producing them 15 years later...

[The Pimpness Monster]

I have not had any problems with any of our power windows yet, so I do not know the exact answer.

 

However, on most vehicles, repairs involve replacing either the regulator assembly (which is the arm, big partial gear, and bracket) or the motor assembly (which usually includes the motor, all other gears, and housing).

 

It is not that often you can purchase just single gears. I have only encountered one exception, and that was on a Ford that stripped gears on such a frequent basis they are still mass producing them 15 years later...

 

 

Thanks, ya I've seem to have encountered yet another Nissan common problem without a simple fix. (other than replacing it that is)

I've talked to a handful of parts yards, and every one was out. They say that they get call for them from hundreds of miles away and can't keep them on the shelf when they encounter them.

I was told that it almost always the same problem, the gears slip. It would seem that the sole plastic gear responsible is not serviceable, darn it.

 

And wouldn't ya know it, a new motor is like a hundred bucks give or take a few. Sheesh!

 

Well, I appreciate the help just the same.

 

off to find a solution dang it....

[94extreme]

actually this is not really a common issue at all but in some locations avaialibility of junk pathys is so low that when you find one there isn't much left. edit: OR should have a bunch though unless 88 beat you to it all, although he isn't in the S.

 

if you purchase a new or newer motor make sure to match the old one with the new one... they made a couple of different 'models'. at least the way the connect so, don't get stuck with one that won't work for you. one had 3 prongs that go into the door's drive and i don't recall what the other one was

 

oh, the gear thing.. if you say the teeth look perfect then the cause could be latteral slipage, as the cog moves side to side enough where it doesn't line up with the other gear. i have a similar issue with a plastic gear in another car on another part but that was what i finally figured out; it may be something to observe.

[The Pimpness Monster]

actually this is not really a common issue at all but in some locations avaialibility of junk pathys is so low that when you find one there isn't much left. edit: OR should have a bunch though unless 88 beat you to it all, although he isn't in the S.

 

if you purchase a new or newer motor make sure to match the old one with the new one... they made a couple of different 'models'. at least the way the connect so, don't get stuck with one that won't work for you. one had 3 prongs that go into the door's drive and i don't recall what the other one was

 

oh, the gear thing.. if you say the teeth look perfect then the cause could be latteral slipage, as the cog moves side to side enough where it doesn't line up with the other gear. i have a similar issue with a plastic gear in another car on another part but that was what i finally figured out; it may be something to observe.

 

Thanks, I didn't realize that there were different plug types for these. Saves me a headache if i go to get one I'm sure.

 

Well, update... I managed to separate the gear from the assembly and now have every part of the motor disassembled.

I have found that the gear has a groove worn down the center of the ribs causing a bowl effect when looking at it straight on.

But still looks pristine from above or below.

 

So, with it apart I'm going to attempt to revive this cog and it shall live again.

 

Thanks again

[89pathy4x4]

I just got done "repairing" my own window motor...the rubber doughnut looking piece presses onto the square drive cog.....mine was split and was not applying enough torque to move the window up. I used some stuff called GOOP.....a plumbers adhesive, and very sticky...but when it dries has the same texture and feel of solid rubber....to make a long story short...I put a bunch on the inside of the hole to act as a bushing, of sorts, and then pressed it back on when it dried...works GREAT NOW.....

[94extreme]

I didn't realize that there were different plug types for these.

actually the end that inserts into the 'window assembly". the mechanical connection. i think the electrical was the same.. it's been many moons ago since i messed with one of these..

[Kittamaru]

Try molding it and casting an alluminum billet gear instead? *shrugS* seems like it'd wear better than Plastic

[The Pimpness Monster]

Try molding it and casting an alluminum billet gear instead? *shrugS* seems like it'd wear better than Plastic

 

Thanks for the replies everyone.

 

Actually, I am trying to make one out of brass. Since I'm a locksmith I have access to a lot of brass, so figured I'd give it a shot.

 

So far no good...but I'll keep on tryin.

Edited February 8, 2008 by The Pimpness Monster

[STB]

For those who are interested, Nissan Pathfinder Manual for 96-2006 (ind PDF format) can be obtained from the following site:

 

http://www.nissanextendedwarranty.com/owners-manual/nissan/

 

Once opened, can be saved on the PC.

 

STB

[Punkfinder]

Having a problem with my driver's side POWER window on my 93 SE-V6.

 

Window goes down about 3", then seems to 'clunk', goes down another 8", then clunks again, and goes right down into the door (as it should). However, when I push the button for the window to go up, there is a buzzing sound from the window motor and I have to pull the glass up to get it started; the window then goes up to the first 'clunk'-spot, needs another pull up, and continues up to the next 'clunk'-spot, and needs to be pulled up again to finally close.

 

I was hoping someone could help me diagnose this. Is it the actual motor that needs replacing, the window regulator, or some of the gears that people on here have mentioned getting stripped/worn out?

 

Thanks

[Slartibartfast]

Sounds like a couple of busted-off or worn out gear teeth to me. Good luck finding the gear on its own, though.

[Towncivilian]

Having a problem with my driver's side POWER window on my 93 SE-V6.

 

Window goes down about 3", then seems to 'clunk', goes down another 8", then clunks again, and goes right down into the door (as it should). However, when I push the button for the window to go up, there is a buzzing sound from the window motor and I have to pull the glass up to get it started; the window then goes up to the first 'clunk'-spot, needs another pull up, and continues up to the next 'clunk'-spot, and needs to be pulled up again to finally close.

 

I was hoping someone could help me diagnose this. Is it the actual motor that needs replacing, the window regulator, or some of the gears that people on here have mentioned getting stripped/worn out?

 

Thanks

Does it do this?

In this case, some white lithium grease on the regulator arm fixed the issue and it still is fine. Next time I need to grease that up I'll use some more durable grease like wheel bearing grease or something that I can apply with my fingers rather than a spray which gets everywhere.