89pathy4x4

The burning coolant is white, that's for sure.....but I've seen some hellish clouds of white smoke belch out of trucks when they use some of those injector cleaners in the shop.....I would consider putting some new fuel in the tank as see how it reacts first...maybe change the fuel filter too.....it's very possible that a whole can of fuel additive on a nearlly empty tank has disolved a bunch of nasty stuff from the bottom of your tank and has contaminated the system...The filter would be pretty much packed full of crud by now.....good luck with it.

The purpose of the panhard rod is to locate the axle (side to side).

I vote for the rear control arm bushings, myself. A classic Pathfinder problem with a proven field fix....diagnosis is as easy as watching them flex back and forth while somebody turns the steering wheel back and forth...:-) DIY if you have a good press at the house, otherwise you'll have to take it to the shop. Look really close at the lower rear...you'll probably find it needs a "repair" in the form of a couple washers because the hole isn't round anymore...good luck !

There is tons of information out there about SAS on Pathfinders. Calmini sells a kit with all the hardware for a spring setup. All you need is some really good welding skills and you are in business. To my knowledge, every Pathfinder out there through '95 shares an identical drivetrain. Transmission, T-case, axles, etc are all a direct swap to each other. Steering components changed slightly when they went with fuel injection in '90.....but even that is easy to overcome if you use the larger tapered inner tie rod ends from the later model. Have fun and post pics !! Welcome to the board

I just got done "repairing" my own window motor...the rubber doughnut looking piece presses onto the square drive cog.....mine was split and was not applying enough torque to move the window up. I used some stuff called GOOP.....a plumbers adhesive, and very sticky...but when it dries has the same texture and feel of solid rubber....to make a long story short...I put a bunch on the inside of the hole to act as a bushing, of sorts, and then pressed it back on when it dried...works GREAT NOW.....

I tried all sorts of coil spacers on my pathy before I finally gave up in disgust. I would look into the 2 or 3" body lift if your after more clearance for big tires....you'll be much happier with the results. I did mine all by myself in an afternoon with a jack and some bits of 2x4's to distribute the force of lifting the body ( no dents) :-)..but if you just have your heart set on spacers..Discount, NAPA all carry the same stuff.

I just fixed mine after being broken for 5 years.....all it needed was an o-ring at the condenser...I was kinda mad. Oh yeah, and I converted my r-12 to 134 too....works great!!

I always thought you could check for LSD simply by jacking up the rear and spinning a tire an open diff will spin the other side the opposite direction but an LSD will spin them both the same direction....at least that was how mine operated

looks like this grille guard is mounted using the carriage bolts holding your front bumper to the bumper brackts...I'm not sure if a 91 has them....I know this design would fit my 89 because I can SEE the ends of those bolts....I think yours is different. Anyway, it concerns me because I see no obvious way to attach this guard to the frame at the bottom....not good unless you just want it for looks.

The metric grade 10.9 bolts that came stock on your tow hook will withstand 8k + lbs of shear force....I think they will be fine "as is" I'm not sure about the grille guard.....stick it up against you bumper and see if the holes match up

Wow!! The look grows on me the more I look at it.....Maybe the next time I cram my front end going down an obstacle, I'll do it!!

Jay, Those are all quality products and have been recommended by people with WAY more experience than myself...sounds like a good plan. My only advise would be to keep a CLOSE eye on the expense of piecing together a kit vs buying one complete (shipping + additional parts) and make sure it will suit your needs. I kinda pieced mine together and had ALOT of fun making everything work the way I wanted. Still not satisfied 100%.....but then again I won't be, until the SAS and 35" tires...but thats just me

I would just go with some shocks, for now, and make the adjustment on the torsion bars up front to make everything level.....plunkin down a bunch of cash on a suspension lift......just to run 31" tires makes no sense. They will fit, no problem. But if your ultimate goal is 32's or 33's.....start saving up for the Calmini (3") or the Trailmaster kit (4") Both are heavy duty and work great!

is it my imagination...or are the front fenders angled in a bunch??? I like the look of it, and no more mud packed all up behind the headlamps (if he had some)

yup, i guess so I personally wouldn't lift my rig and run stock tires on it. There isn't alot of performance advantage in it....A pathy can go anywhere it wants to go in stock configuration...except for the rock crawling action.....NOW you need some serious supension lift

There ya go !! get some Rancho shocks RS5000's are good RS9000's are better, but more $$ .......all the suspension mod you need!!

nah! thats not what I meant at all.....the UCA's that correct for the BJ angle (i.e LIFT) are not meant to be run around in a stock configuration it throws the camber WAY off and makes proper alignment impossible......and not everyone's pathfinder came with 31" tire as stock. Mine came with p235 70 tires (29") Have you ever noticed how responsive your pathfinder is during low~medium speed steering input after you did the lift?? This is because the adjustment is jjjjuuuussssttt barely adaquate to get you around....a small adjustment makes a BIG difference with huge tires.....but smaller tires require more adjustment for the same results. Draw it out on a piece of paper and you'll see what I'm talking about. If all of this isn't a big concern for you KnOx...why go to the trouble and expense to replace them at all.....it's not a nessessity to lift your truck in front, just crank the t-bars and call it a day! But they say you need them for something..........I wonder what??

ok....I'm not actually looking at the truck, and pics can sometimes be deceiving. anyway, postpone the suspension stuff until you can afford to do the whole thing...buy stuff a piece at a time if you have to...and watch ebay for wheel/tire deals..........CHEAP! All you really have to buy is the upper control arms and some lift springs, crank up the torsion bars and VOILA!.....3 inch suspension lift. To lift any more than that would cost serious $$$ In the mean-time.....with half the body already off your rig, the perfect time to do the body lift. It's chaep too at around 100 bucks

Oops! I forgot to address the issue at hand.....LIFT! If cash is tight, and you can't buy the new wheels/ tires right away....go for the body lift. I believe that a suspension lift of any sort is incompatible with stock tires/rims the alignment would be way off and may be dangerous to drive that way. and go with the 3" kit....that way you can get away with less suspension mods when you get bigger tires.....I.E. less angle on the CV Joints and more available downward travel for the suspension

Most used parts places will actually run an engine before they try and sell the thing....they just don't yank one out, pronounce it a "good" engine and call it a day....there is too much hassle involved in returning bad motors. Deal with a reputable dealer, ask the pertinant questions and it will be fine.

wow! where to start on this one... I have been researching engine options for a WHILE...as my pathy is goin on 240k and the engine is getting tired. There are MANY options for you! -any vg30i will be a direct replacement..they put them in maximas, quest vans, etc -a vg30i would also work, if you swapped the intake manifold -the trick setup is a low mileage vg33 (also from the maxima, xterra, etc) but theres some extra work involved in making your current accessories mount because of the crank pulley thats different. If I had my way (and it's probably the way I will do it) Get a complete vg33 engine from a Frontier or Xterra with accessories + exhaust manifolds and get to work making everything hook up.

Iwould consider doin "none of the above" to this particular truck. I have been lookin at the picture you have on the x-build site....your frame looks to be in as bad a condition as the rest of the truck.....I would be scared to ride int the thing with a 3+3 lift and 33's...............at least without have a nascar type seat and harness installed first. Who told you the frame was still good and that it would last more than a couple minutes of 4x4 use???

wow!!!!! I would LOVE to have one of those.........2 dr with VG30e. I learned something today.

QUOTE: "My theory on this stuff is why use my methods if someone has one thats proven to be best? I mean why would I want to wire it all then be like oh shat I have to go back and remove my dash and redo it all over again. I dont get why you cant just leave advice... kind of makes the forums useless if everytime someone asks a question its like " USE THE SEARCH", USE UR IMAGINATION...." Jay, I think that 88 is just trying to say.......along with everyone elses critisism of your RELENTLESS posting; 99.9 percent of the joy associated with these home projects is that YOU decide the best way to do stuff, and when YOU do this.......YOU accept ownership and responsibility for the work YOU do.......are you getting my drift?????? QUOTE: "Alright if my truck catches on fire i will come back to ya on that one 88 lol" and this qoute comes back to the "ownership and responsibility" thing