The Pimpness Monster

I've been messin with my windows for a bit now, I found that if you can have dirty or frayed connections to your switch control and as the friction from the weight of the glass gets to be too much, and it breaks the connection and stops the motor. Though that is strange that all the windows have the same response, and especially if they all roll up fine after they stop on the way down. But, You seem to know what your checking on, so good luck to you. Peace

Thanks for the replies everyone. Actually, I am trying to make one out of brass. Since I'm a locksmith I have access to a lot of brass, so figured I'd give it a shot. So far no good...but I'll keep on tryin.

Oh dang, that's a paw print. I thought it was a residue mark..LOL That's messed up.

For dogs, refer to my post above. No problems

People often disconnect the snorkel from the airbox for everyday driving, and hook 'em up when it's playin time.

There just so happens to be an article on building your own snorkel in the newest Peterson's 4wheel and offroad magazine, could have some helpful hints. You can also buy kits that have the extra thick dryer tubing looking stuff as well as the brackets, an inline airfilter and an ABS plastic hard mast portion. Couple thoughts for ya

No, that's what's so strange. It runs quite smooth, although I swear it's gotta have more power than I'm getting out of it. I hope there's more anyway. I'm not sure what the idle is supposed to be at, I seem to remember somethin like 800rpm or so. Well, mine was about 500 or so, after advancing it slightly from where it was it's back up to 800ish. It also seems to have better power, though I also removed my intake silencer tube so the increased sound could be given me some delusions. I was thinkin about the walking pulley thing, but I would think that it would wander all the time right? When I've been checking it's consistent in it's marks, their just in the wrong spot. I guess it may just be the dist.

Depends on your size needs as well as ease of multiple access needs. A common method is to adhere the properly encased items to the inside of the door behind the panel, and then coat them in thick engine grease. This will pass even the most impressive dogs nose test. But....I don't now nuthin.....

Wow Dude, that musta been something else to watch that all go down in your own Sheez. Yay for the intervention by the Pathy Gods...

Nice project!! I have an '81 CJ7, that I've built from the ground up. If ya need any info on yours I may be able to help, having probably dealt with it on mine. And as far as offroad...geez, it'd have to be one hell of a pathfinder to even look at my Jeep. Pathy is fun, Jeep is Beast.

Right on, Thanks for the diagram and advice you guys, sounds like I may not be too bad off after all. Now that I got a clue, I'll take a little closer look.

Hey man, screw the dealer. I'm a locksmith and that is way too much. For that price they must be talking of replacing the whole PATS system. In this case you'll only need to have the mechanical portion of the lock cylinders rekeyed. The only problem is only having one key means you'll need a good locksmith with transponder equipment. I'm assuming that the lost key doesn't have button controls or FOB for alarm and such. So, having only one original key means it'll probably be around $100 for just another one, that's if they can recut your old key, otherwise figure in the price for another new one as well. I'd figure a respectable shop could do it all for no more than $500. If you decide to pull the door panels or even the locks, you can save a big chunk as it's usually $50 just to pull a panel!! Ya know, if having two different keys for the rig isn't a problem, you could just have the doors and hatch locks done and you can have as many mechanical keys for the doors as you want for a few bucks each. Hope this helps. Peace

Hey ya'll, I've discovered that my timing marks are waaay off, much more than could be corrected through adjusting the dist for timing. If your looking down at the timing pointer front the front of engine, the marks are about 45 degrees down the pulley to the left. After maxing the dist is turned all the way counter clockwise it still was about 10 degrees away from the farthest right mark to the pointer. If that makes any sense.. So, I'm wondering if anyone knows the distance between the crank pulley bolts, so that I can determine if some yahoo installed it clocked wrong. I Figure if the distance between the bolts matches the amount that the marks are off, I can just add some temp marks till I do my timing belt next month and correct it. If not...O'boy gotta be something real fun I'm sure. Thanks

Not that I know anything about your issue, but I have installed a stereo once in a Lincoln and misconnected the dimmer wire and it would start everytime you turned on the headlights...pretty weird. my .02....

Cool, thanks ya'll. Now it's time to get dirty and get some answers.

It seems to usually be the rubber connection hose that fits between the two metal fuel rails at the front of the engine, little to the left and behind the dist cap cover. My clamps were loose on both sides, causing fuel smell every morning in the cab. Snugged 'em up and it's now fine. A coworker had the same deal on his hardbody. Hope this helps.

Thanks, I didn't realize that there were different plug types for these. Saves me a headache if i go to get one I'm sure. Well, update... I managed to separate the gear from the assembly and now have every part of the motor disassembled. I have found that the gear has a groove worn down the center of the ribs causing a bowl effect when looking at it straight on. But still looks pristine from above or below. So, with it apart I'm going to attempt to revive this cog and it shall live again. Thanks again

Thanks, ya I've seem to have encountered yet another Nissan common problem without a simple fix. (other than replacing it that is) I've talked to a handful of parts yards, and every one was out. They say that they get call for them from hundreds of miles away and can't keep them on the shelf when they encounter them. I was told that it almost always the same problem, the gears slip. It would seem that the sole plastic gear responsible is not serviceable, darn it. And wouldn't ya know it, a new motor is like a hundred bucks give or take a few. Sheesh! Well, I appreciate the help just the same. off to find a solution dang it....

Well, it seems that mine are definitely not stock. Any ideas for an easy method to find out how they differ from the stock springs? Ya'll rock!

So, I was tearing down my window motor to give a try to repairing it. What I found was that the metal worm gear from the motor interacts with a plastic sprocket then translating to the square drive cam that operates the lift on the regulator. I discovered that a single section on the plastic gear is what has the flaw...it slips on the teeth instead of turns. There is nothing visibly wrong, so must just have slightly worn a groove on those teeth. However, this gear is held to the assembly by a rubber/metal unit that I can't seem to separate. Does anyone know a method for removing this rubber/metal like thing? Or, perhaps a method of correcting the plastic gear? Some sort of epoxy maybe? Any, and all ideas welcome. Thanks.

Cool, thank you. It doesn't seem to have any lift, which is another strange thing I would think from aftermarket coils. Does anyone happen to know what the average rear tire to fender gap on a stocker with 31"s is? Thanks again

I was peaking around my rig and noticed that my rear coils are bright red powdercoated, and look to be a little newer than I would expect on a '94 SE. I saw another pathy that had dark blue ones, but didn't know if it was modified or not. Now, all others that I have seen are black from the factory. So, this is weird. Any ideas? Thanks ya'll,

I smell wet beaver... sly j/k :cool2:

Well then...I guess that makes it the regulator then. Thanks for the help...off to the parts store I go.... :cool2:

I did look at it and couldn't determine anything meaningful. I guess another way to put it would be: Does the motor connect to the regulator via Teeth or gear that could possibly be the problem? Meaning that it's the motor itself, or at least that gear would need repair/replacement. Or does the regulator have some sort of internal sprocket that could be the same issue?