Punkfinder

Thanks for the empathy Scott, I was really attached to this machine. One of my headlights died and I was pricing replacements and found there were minimum $60 for one. Then I found 2 of the 'Euro'-style replacement ones on ebay for almost the same price; those are what you see on there. Definite improvement in lighting as my old lenses were pretty faded.

I'm not sure if this constitutes failing entirely, but the pass. side rear rail is broken in half. I can try and post a few pics of the breakage if you want. The body is good not great and so is the motor and (2nd) auto tranny. Lots of new upgrades as well. I hope to find someone that wants to buy this and take it on as a project so I don't have to part it out and scrap it, but I just don't have the time or resources at the moment to tackle it myself.

After multiple frame repairs over the past few years my mechanic strongly advised me not to keep repairing my Pathy. I now realize I never took enough pictures of my rig. Here's some shots of the first day and then a few shots of the last good summer: Lots of life left in and lots of good parts. Not sure what I'm going to do with it. It will be missed.

Did anyone try the Autorust plates that this thread was originally about?

Just swapped out my rear DISC brakes (new pads,rotors,calipers), which I had to do anyway. I also tightened up the rear sway bar (it was loose) and there is definitely less noise so far. I'll update after I drive it for a few days.

I'm hearing a grinding/clunking noise coming from the rear of my 93 SE-V6 when going in reverse, but only when turning in reverse. If I'm backing up in a straight line, no noise at all. I seem to remember reading somewhere in this forum that it could be the LSD, but searched and couldn't find mention of it. Perhaps it trying to engage even though there's no tire slippage? Has anyone experienced this and know what's going on? Thanks

Having a problem with my driver's side POWER window on my 93 SE-V6. Window goes down about 3", then seems to 'clunk', goes down another 8", then clunks again, and goes right down into the door (as it should). However, when I push the button for the window to go up, there is a buzzing sound from the window motor and I have to pull the glass up to get it started; the window then goes up to the first 'clunk'-spot, needs another pull up, and continues up to the next 'clunk'-spot, and needs to be pulled up again to finally close. I was hoping someone could help me diagnose this. Is it the actual motor that needs replacing, the window regulator, or some of the gears that people on here have mentioned getting stripped/worn out? Thanks

Thanks for pointng out the discount, Precise. I had already placed the order before reading this comment so I missed out on the discount. However, sent one email to Rockauto's customer service explaining this and they immediately gave me the discount. Great customer service!

I decided to go with Rockauto. It was $204 CAD delivered to my door, Canadian taxes in.

Turns out it is leaking at the seam where the top and bottom of the tank come together. My mechanic, who I really trust, says it would best to just replace it; I pay for the part and he let's me help him install it, no labor charge. By the way, it is extremely rusted and if I patch the seam there's no guarantee it won't leak elsewhere soon, that's why I'm going with the new tank.

Filled up my pathfinder completely 2 days ago. I had the front end on jacks afterwards for some underbody work, so the front end was sitting slightly higher than usual. Noticed some gas leaking out through the holes in the metal plate that protects the tank, which is just in front of the rear bumper. Put some cardboard down and it leaked through the night, maybe 5 liters/1 gallon. It isn't really leaking now. Before I dig in there, has anyone experienced this before? Know what I may be facing? Thanks

Thanks for posting these James! I've wheeled through #3 quite often (Simcoe County Forest). It's short, but always nice and muddy in the summer. We should tackle the 'very very, special' trail sometime this Spring. Mike (P.S. don't forget to send me a few of those caps for my window trim when you have some time)

I just repaired a hole in my driver side floor with some sheets of tin, but as you can see from the pic, the tin is now protruding out of my wheel well. This is the view from just behind my front driver-side wheel; you can see my frame just below the hole. Up here in the salt-belt of Ontario, Canada, my tires will be spraying sand, salt, and slush into this hole, so I need to fix it. Does anyone have any suggestions for how to cover this hole and keep all the crap out? Maybe some kind of tar-based coating...? I just need something that will get me through the winter and then I can do a more thorough repair in the Spring. Thanks

Need to replace the driver-side exhaust header gasket for the Pacesetters on my 93 SE-V6. Pacesetter says it requires gasket #G7175 and I can't remember exactly what they looked like. Do you think this is a gasket specific to the Pacesetters or will an OEM exhaust manifold gasket fit properly? Thanks

Yes, grabbing some zerk 45's tomorrow.

Thanks for the tip. I really didn't want to pull my Warn hubs apart, but looks like I'll have to. So if I disassemble my hub, the CV will slide a bit (away from the vehicle)?

Replacing the lower BJs on my 93-SE following Haynes and Chilton directions. Started the passenger side BJ. It was a PITA to get the old one off...was only able to get it off b/c the ball joint came out of it's housing (see pic) Trying to put the new BJ in and can't fit the tapered bolt through it's hole on the bottom of the knuckle as the CV housing seems to be in the way. No matter how a manipulate the new BJ, I can't get it seated properly b/c the CV housing is in the way (see arrow in pic). The only way I can see to install this is to disconnect the CV at the knuckle, which I'd rather avoid. Am I missing an easier way to do this? My first time posting pics, so if they're crap, let me know and I can take new ones. Thanks

SOLVED!!! My problem may be different than yours, Dave, but the culprit in my case seems to have been a corroded negative battery terminal. Cleaned it with some warm water and baking soda and applied some grease in hope that it will not corrode again. Running like a top now! Perhaps the electrical system was cutting out due to the corroded terminal and this was affecting the fuel pump... So check your battery terminals to rule them out.

Still experiencing the same stalling, idling problem, even when the engine seems relatively cool. If it is a gas vaporization problem, I may not have solved it... While I did cover the gas line pretty well with aluminum foil and tin tape, my fuel line is still RIGHT up against one of the header pipes (with a thin piece of tin wedged in between as a heat shield). There is no room in that area! Should I re-route my fuel line well away from the header pipe before I try the full fuel pump inspection and system/tank flush? Misterfixit: Please let me know if your fuel line rerouting continues to work.

I used heavy aluminum foil, HVAC tin tap, and some pieces of tin to (hopefully) protect my gas line from some of the heat coming off the sh*tty Pacesetter headers. Afterward, I took the Pathy for a half hour spin and continued to experience intermittent power loss through the first 1000-1500 rpm and stalling when slowing down, making right turns, and when idling. I came back home, and it idled fine in the driveway for 10 minutes. I then took another drive for 15 minutes; power had returned and idling/stalling problems were gone!!! WTF! I'll reply to the forum if the problem returns. Thanks again for the suggestions.

Thanks Dave. I'll give that a try. If I were you, I'd stay away from Pacesetter headers and spend the extra $$$ on Thorleys. On my Pacesetters, I had to grind out the inside of the Y-pipe so it would fit with my intermediate and that wasn't the big issue... My headers were WARPED on the driver's side, which required a lot of extra work to seal. So they were warped and full of really poor welds.

Hey Dave, I just installed new headers and have been having similar idle/stalling issues ever since. While my engine temp gauge reads about the same as before, I've noticed a lot more heat under the hood being dissipated by the header pipes, which happen to be adjacent to the fuel lines and filter on the pass. side. So I'm wondering if the heat/gas vaporization is an issue for me as well. Did you have any success with "..new rubber engine compartment fuel lines...and heat shields in place"? If you've found another solution or something I should try please let me know. Thanks, Mike

Need to replace a small section of my STEEL brake line from just behind the rear differential to my rear passenger side wheel. I've never replaced brake lines before, just pads/rotors. A few questions: Can I just go to a parts store (e.g. NAPA) and buy a kit with all that I'll need? If so, are these kits/brake lines universal in terms of fittings? Or do I need something specific for my 93 Pathy? Perhaps they have kits made of flexible lines so I wouldn't have to bend the steel lines to match my old ones... Will these kits require tools to flare the lines to make them fit properly? As a fairly amateur mechanic, should I just have my mechanic do this? Thanks

Much appreciated!

Don't mean to hijack this thread, but my question is in reference to the differential and T-Case fluids... I've been through my Hayne's, Chilton, and factory manuals and they all seem to have different capacities for the Front Diff, Rear Diff, and T-Case. Also, some of the capacities are in liters, some in quarts, and some in pints (US or UK? IDK). I know it doesn't need to be exact when adding to proper capacity because I'm only filling to the fill holes; however, if I had an approximate capacity for each I could at least buy the proper amounts for my 93 SE-V6 (w/ LSD). So, can anyone help me with the capacities for: 1) T-Case 2) Front Diff 3) Rear Diff Please specify if liters or pints (US not UK). One more question: Anyone have any experience or knowledge regarding the difference/effectiveness of regular vs. synthetic gear oils? Thanks. Buy the way, I'm going to use Lucas 75W90 for my LSD and Penzoil 75w90 for the front diff.