Punkfinder

Next time I do an oil change, I'll check if it has the pivot fittings and chenge them to solid if it does. Just to be safe, I think I'll take the adaptor plate off and sand it down as well (if needed). Thanks 88

Been looking for a cargo basket type rack and can't afford a Thule ($400) or Yakima ($300) and don't have the know-how/tools to make one myself. This one (LINK) is advertised at $109. It only has a one year warranty and doesn't look as sturdy as the pricier brands, but I'll only be using it 8 or 10 times a summer for hauling a canoe and camping gear. Not sure how secure the U-Bolt connectors will be for holding it onto my factory roof rails though...

Has anyone experienced any leaking with the Summit kit? I haven't had a chance to really get in there and look close, but it's either leaking at the adapter plate to old filter connection OR at one of the hose clamp areas (on adapter plate at the engine end). I installed this almost a year ago and just noticed the leak within the past couple months. The only thing I can think of is I pinched rubber gasket and it's slowly degraded to the point of leaking...

Hit it with some Fluid Film and slammed the glass...worked right away! Thanks for the advice!

93 SE-V6. I can hear my rear wiper motor click when I activate it, but the arm won't move. I just replaced my old dead one with this used one 6 months ago. I don't know much about motors and switches, so does anyone know what the 'click' means? Is it the motor shot (again) or a switch or...? If the motor is toast, is there any way to fix it or is it easier to by a new/used one? Thanks

Does anyone know how to remove these black trim pieces at the bottom of the window? My parts truck has nice, non-rusted trim pieces I'd like to use. Thanks

Anyone know if these will fit: Corner Lights on Ebay These too: Bumper Lights And these: Taillights Thanks for your help!

The link to phatg20.net (http://www.phatg20.net/component/option,com_remository/Itemid,2/func,select/id,31/) hasn't been working for me... However, I did find some PDF files of a service manual for a 1994 Nissan Pathfinder here: http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/AUTOMOBIL...Pathfinder/?N=D I didn't read every single reply in this thread thoroughly so not sure if this has already been posted or not. The chapters are placed in separate PDF files. Could be a pain or handy if you only need a specific chapter.

Thanks for the posts. I could have sworn the noises were coming from the back...installed some Warn hubs tonight and noise is gone, no more crunching.

93 SE-V6 w/ 4-wheel disc brakes here. After having my truck sitting for a week (not sure if that had something to do with it), I've noticed an occasional crunching noise coming from the rear end of my Pathy. I only hear when just moving forward from a stop and it seems to occur for a short period during each rear wheel rotation. I usually hear it for 3-4 rotations of the wheels then it disappears; and I don't think it's still there after speeding up because I can also feel the crunching as a slight vibration from the rear, and that disappears as well. It only occurs intermittently; I don't hear it every time I pull away from a stop, maybe only once every 3-4 times I pull away. I took it to a tranny shop because I thought it was maybe a cracking U-joint, rear diff. problem, or maybe the rear axle; they took it for a few spins but also said it occurred so infrequently that they couldn't nail down the source of the noise or see a problem, although they did hear it. Any ideas? Thanks for any help!

Hi guys, Apologies in advance for a long post... I have very little knowledge regarding wheels and trying to learn about them online has been frustrating (e.g backspacing, offset, etc), so I thought I'd ask here. I currently am running 31x10.5 Goodyear Workhorse rubber on the stock "Lego" wheels. I'd like to upgrade my wheels, likely keeping the same rubber for a while as there's lots of wear left on the Workhorses (I also have a decent set of 31x9.5 Swampers to use next). Also note that I will soon have the JGC coil lift and torsion bar crank to give me a little lift. I really like the look of the American Racing AR-767. I am sure that regardless of wheel diameter and width, I need bolt pattern 6x5.5 (6.139.7mm). So here are my questions: 1) Is it important that I stick with the 15" diameter? I'm assuming going to 16" would simply give me less space to fit tires in my wheel well...and without a big lift that space is at a premium for my rig. 2) Can I go up to 8" or 10" width without many issues, besides the expected rubbing, stress on steering components, etc? (I believe the stock Lego and chrome rims are 6" wide, correct my if I'm wrong). 3) When I go through different websites "wheels applications" programs to figure which wheels will fit my truck, the AR-767s never pop up as being applicable. Is this because of backspace or offset issues? Should I pay any attention to these "wheel applications" program's suggestions for rims? To assist, here are some wheel measurements for the AR-767s from American Racing's website (sorry if my chart is hard on the eyes): Part No./Size/Offset/Backside/Bolt Circle AR7676883/16x8/12/4.97/6x139.7 AR7676783/16x7/0/4.00/6x139.7 AR7675883/15x8/-12/4.03/6x139.7 AR7675783/15x7/0/4.00/6x139.7 AR7675183/15x10/-38/4.00/6x139.7 Maybe you guys could highlight which Part No. would be best for my rig; I'm thinking the 15x8 or 15x10... 4) How would a 15x8 w/ -12 backspacing compare with a 15x10 w/ -38 backspacing? I'm assuming that the -38 backspacing would "stick out" more from under the fender flares than the -12 backspacing and simply have a wider profile. Thanks a million in advance!

Thanks for the advice. Gettin it done this weekend.

I checked my Chilton and Haynes and couldn't find any mention of the rear wiper motor. Before I tear my tailgate apart to 'trial & error' it, I thought I'd see if anyone else had done this swap and had any suggestions... I've read Alkorahil's post (http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19256&hl=rear+wiper) that includes the diagrams; very helpful, BTW. My question is more about how to access the wiper motor/parts etc. Thanks, Mike

Update: Dealer is cutting me a new key as I type this, they only needed the VIN. Cost: $12. Thanks for the feedback.

93 SE-V6 A small chunk broke off my key and my spare has disappeared. Are Nissan dealerships able to cut keys using our VIN or the key cylinder? I searched the forums but couldn't find a definitive answer. Thanks

Unfortunately I don't have a picture of this at the moment, but here's my system, cheap and easy to set up: Take a bunch of old jars, cleaned out (I use peanut butter jars). After attaching a shelf over your work bench (or any existing shelf), take the lid off of one of the jars and fasten it with a couple screws to the bottom of the shelf (open thread-side facing down). Now throw some items into the bottom jar part and twist onto the lid part that you fastened to the bottom of shelf. Once you have it on tight, you can either label the jar or label the attached lid. I like this system for several reasons: 1) You can take the bottom jar part with you out to the driveway, backyard, etc, and then return it when finished. 2) It uses up space on the underside of shelves that normally isn't used (provided there is enough room underneath). 3) You can still use the top of the shelf for storage. Mike

What's the reason for not wanting to recommend/consider this option?

93 SE-V6 with both the Lego and Chrome rims sets. Can't afford a new set of rims so changing backspace that way is out of the question. Has anyone here used wheel backspacers to achieve that wider stance? If so, what are they like? Pros and cons? Any recommended brands? Thanks guys.

Thanks guys, this is all making sense now. I guess I'll hang on to the larger flange studs just in case I need to remove them and they break.

93 SE-V6 here with at least one broken exhaust stud; planning on replacing all studs and having manifolds machined before reinstalling as I can't afford new ones at the moment... Just stopped by the stealership to pick up my exhaust studs, and they hand me 12 studs (Part#14065-V5004) that say "STD TURBO CHG" on the package, and then another 6 studs (Part#14064-N4200) that just say "STUD". I asked why they were giving me 18 studs when I only require (I think) 12 studs and was told that these 12 & 6 studs were what was required, no further explanation was given . They also gave me a bunch of thick washers (Part#14037-V5005) that they said I'd need. I'm buying the gaskets elsewhere for financial reasons. I've read the write-ups on replacing broken studs and as an amateur mechanic I'm already dreading the task. Can anyone help me with what studs I should be using, the number of studs (although I'm 99.9% sure it's 12), and where these thick washers fit into the whole picture as there was no mention of them in any of the write-ups I came across or in my Haynes/Chilton? I know I could figure a lot of this stuff out on my own if I just started taking things apart but the Pathy is my daily driver and I'd like to have all the right parts before I start dismantling. Any assistance is much appreciated!!! One other note: My local NAPA store said they had generic exhaust studs and I'd just need to give them the measurements. Should I stick with the Genuine Nissan studs or are these no-name NAPA studs okay?

'93 SE-V6 here Has anyone ever had this done in a shop or know what an approximate fair price would be? Let's say there are 2 broken studs and I'd like to have all replaced at once... I'd give this a shot myself but it is damn cold here now and I don't have a heated garage nor the time to tackle this before winter really sets in. Thanks in advance

The SE is north of Toronto near Barrie.

Thanks for the posts. The tranny was REPLACED. And already has an external cooler, I think I may add my external cooler as well. Plus I have a perfectly good extra tranny on my 93 w/ the rotten frame. I think I'll be taking the splashguard off mine immediately and putting it on the new one.

Frame was not bent or broken, just rebuilt due to rust damage. Had a good look at this for about 20 mins. and it looked very solid. One other question I had: My 93 SE-V6 has a skid plate on the front under the bumper but the other 93 SE-V6 "Trail Boss" I'm looking at doesn't have one. Were only certain 93 models equipped with these? Intuitively I'd think a "Trail Boss" package would have one...

I'm the proud owner of an extremely frame rusted '93 SE-V6 that was bought 3 years ago. Thinking about upgrading to another 93 SE-V6 without the frame rust option. This Pathy I'm looking at supposedly has the "Trail Boss" package, 223000 km, 4-wheel discs, LSD, no frame rot. The frame had actually been repaired a couple years ago and the whole underbody has a good coat of rustproofing still on it. The seller said he hasn't driven it much since 2006 so it hasn't seen much of the past two Canadian winters. He's asking $3500 CND for the truck with a set of Eagle alloys and almost new BFG M/Ts. Without the wheels/tires, he wants $2500 CND. I already have a few sets of Pathy rims with rubber so I don't need the Eagles. Is this a deal I should jump on? He did mention that one of the exhaust manifold bolts is broken and as a result there is a "ticking" noise coming from the engine. Is this anything major to be concerned about? (I know I could check the forums for most of this but I don't have a lot of time tonight and want to close the deal tomorrow) Oh, one other thing, he said he's replaced the auto-tranny twice since he bought the truck used in 2000 (newest tranny has 20k on it). But I still have my old frame-rotted '93 SE-V6 for parts if needed... Thanks for any input in advance...love this forum!