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My New Pathy Needs A Lift... Badly


protodiarko7
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about 3-5 inches. i don't know a whole lot about lifts or suspension or anything of the sort. i'm learning though :tongue: i'm thinking in the 400-600 dollar range. i'll install myself, with help from some good friends who know more than i do. where can i get quality parts without spending over 1k? :shrug:

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Start by searching the forums for JGC lift. Basically, replacing the rear springs with those from a JCG and cranking the torsion bars to lift the front end. By searching you will also learn that it is adviseable that you change over to aftermarket UCA's. There is a ton of information available, if you can't figure out how to search then just scroll back and look into topics that appear to be related to your question. It literally has been answered hundreds of times here. :search:

 

Good luck :aok:

 

about 3-5 inches. i don't know a whole lot about lifts or suspension or anything of the sort. i'm learning though :tongue: i'm thinking in the 400-600 dollar range. i'll install myself, with help from some good friends who know more than i do. where can i get quality parts without spending over 1k? :shrug:
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sorry- i did find a good many of the answers after i posted this...

 

but i do have one question...

if i crank my tbars to get 1 1/2 or 2 inches of lift on the front, is that going to put a whole lot more stress on the front end? most of the parts in my pathy are original as far as i know and i can't afford to replace stuff like crazy due to excessive stress.

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most of the parts in my pathy are original as far as i know and i can't afford to replace stuff like crazy due to excessive stress.

 

Do you wheel or plan on wheeling your truck? If its a pavement pounder, knock yourself out. If you do plan to use it, and you can't afford to replace stuff, then you probably shouldn't be messing around with lifting it, cause you'll be replacing stuff sooner or later. :togo:

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Do you wheel or plan on wheeling your truck? If its a pavement pounder, knock yourself out. If you do plan to use it, and you can't afford to replace stuff, then you probably shouldn't be messing around with lifting it, cause you'll be replacing stuff sooner or later. :togo:

i'm definitely wheeling it. and i've got to lift it, because obvious reasons- i need more ground clearance, and more suspension flex.

 

this is not my daily driver. my other car is a 94 gmc jimmy.

the pathy is just my wheelin' truck. it has no other purpose.

 

but alright here's what i've gathered, correct me if i'm wrong...

jeep grand cherokee coils in the rear?

is there a specific coil i need to look for?

if so, which one?

Edited by protodiarko7
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You're looking for the front coils from a 93-97 Jeep Grand cherokee. preferrably the .58 (or .59) coil diameter, as that'll give you the most lift. There were different coils ranging from .52-.58 (or .59, not sure on that measurement).

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i guess i'll just call some junkyards and go measure some JGC coils! :tongue:

crank my t-bars in the front :wiggle:

and then in a few weeks, replace my UCAs with some calmini.

lifted! :jig:

 

yesterday i took all the carpet out and the back seats out.

i cleaned everything out real good and put spray in bedliner over all of the floor.

tomorrow i'm putting the front seats back in, bolting down a sheet of metal over the back floorboard that will make a slanted, flat floor.

then cut some rubber mats to fit the entire floor. now that's utility :D

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Don't waste your money on Calmini UCA's.

 

Order from RoughCountry. You'll have to call for the arms, as they're specified for the hardbody, but work fine on our trucks. (same front end design)

 

They're a lot cheaper, and I've heard of 0 problems with them. Calmini can't compare with that.

 

They're rebranded Superlift arms, only, they're cheaper from RoughCountry. Last I heard, around $160 USD with bushings.

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wow that's ridiculously cheaper. B)

so they're labeled as being for the hardbody?

and they come with the lift they make for the hardbody?

or what do i ask for when i call? :shrug:

 

the stock ones should last for a couple of weeks of mild wheeling, yes? :unsure:

 

i hate money. there's so much i want to do!

if i work any more than i do now- i won't have time to do anything.

ah- what a tough balance. :angry:

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Sorry if I came across pessimistic before. I took your first post as "I don't want to spend anything but want the moon," know what I mean? LOL Ditto the Rough Country UCA's, I've run them for over 2 years now with no issues at all, they're great in my book. 88Pathoffroad is the source for coils among other things, he has a write up out there, I think in the How To section of either the Garage or one of the WD21 areas. A pretty solid but basic suspension lift could be had for maybe as cheap as $200 (UCA's and some junkyard springs) and some wrenching if you really shop around and are lucky.

 

It all depends on what you do yourself, what you have done at a shop, and then what other goodies you add. Shocks wouldn't be a bad idea, and can run the spectrum in pricing of course. Some of us have gone with aftermarket heavier duty torsion bars, but they're not absolutely necessary at all. You can successfully crank (and re-index) stock T-bars to gain lift. I picked up Sway Away torsion bars 3 or 4 years ago for another $200-something, and have been happy with them, they give a nice ride without being harsh like I've heard some cranked bars might do. You can throw on a body lift for more clearance for another $100 +/-. Whatever's clever.

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wow that's ridiculously cheaper. B)

so they're labeled as being for the hardbody?

and they come with the lift they make for the hardbody?

or what do i ask for when i call? :shrug:

 

the stock ones should last for a couple of weeks of mild wheeling, yes? :unsure:

Yes....they are the ones that come in the full kit for the hardbody.

 

Ask for the Upper Control arms for a hardbody, with bushings.

 

The stock ones will last forever, that isn't the issue. What happens is, as you lift, your ball joints end up at extreme angles with the stock arms, and chances are, you'll blow through upper ball joints quickly. Also, it'll be very tough (could be impossible) to get aligned with 3" of front end lift, and stock arms.

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