ILoveMyPatty Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 Well I finally got my replacement engine and I'm trying to swap it in with no experience at all. I'm already having troubles getting the lower rad hose off, so I can pull the rad. I got the hose off the engine and drained the rad, but I'm having troubles getting it off the rad itself. This isn't a huge problem, but I will be posting more problems I encounter throughout the swap in here. This is going to be fun.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vsicks Pathy Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 Well I finally got my replacement engine and I'm trying to swap it in with no experience at all.I'm already having troubles getting the lower rad hose off, so I can pull the rad. I got the hose off the engine and drained the rad, but I'm having troubles getting it off the rad itself. This isn't a huge problem, but I will be posting more problems I encounter throughout the swap in here. This is going to be fun.... Twist the hose. You have to try to rotate it so it will break loose. When it does, then you can pull it off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zonianbrat Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 Try the twist off method for sure then if that does not work you can cut if off by loosening the clamp, sliding it back then take a sharp razor and cut along the hose starting where it connects to the radiator as your cutting you can twist and eventually it will come off. I would recommend replacing all the hoses and the belts anywayif your going to be putting in a new engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 What happens over time is that the rubber will fuse to the metal, so you need to rip that bond open. Another method I frequently use is to work a relatively small diameter rod in (long skinny screwdriver or scribe) and then rotate the handle of that tool. It will "walk" around the fitting as you continue twisting, seperating just a small section of the bond at a time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 Pull the Rad with the hose attached.... Eliminate the problem of not enough space.... Then when the Rad and hose are out you have space to remove and replace that hose when you re-install it.... K I S S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 The whole engine remove and replace is a sectional thing.... Hood... Trust me Intake(remove the hose going to the TB and the Air box)Throttel Cables. Cooling Assmbly items (Shroud, Rad, Hoses, clutchfan, Belts) Accessory Items remove from engine mounting points(I had all mine still attached to the wiring, just moved up out of the way..Saves on bleeding/Recharging systems) Exhaust.. optimal time to upgrade to some Thorleys... Fix the broken studs before re-installing the new motor Trans bolts, Starter (4 bolts that attach the flywheel to the Torque Converter through the hole where the starter was) then the fun begins:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 good advice casey... for the hood pull the washer fluid lines before removing the hinge bolts...loosen all hinge bolts and leave minimal threads on..you may have to razor the sealant there are many different versions...I have pulled the engine in an 87 MT and a 95 AT and neither 1 I could get out without dropping the FA...i've heard people do it but i have not personally done it and wasted more time trying to get it out without dropping the axle 1st... my 1st 1 was definitely an experience but I have done 2 swaps entirely by myself but a helping hand is much better and safer (i always had my phone within reaching distance incase i needed to call 911 I would say: 1. Jack up front and remove tires and place front end on jackstands... 2. Pb exhaust studs...its going to be easier to remove the Y pipe (down pipe) than try to remove the manifolds and Y piped together (dont even know if this is possible) 3. Loosen up tbars and remove them 4. break the tranny bolts loose and remove the starter (lots of extensions and U joints help out) (theres 4 on the front side or engine side) 5. Loosen tranny linkages and what not and from the tranny mount along with the rear driveshaft 6. Remove tranny bolts and either slide tranny back or drop it...i always opted to drop it (be careful this is a heavy) 7. loosen up the cvs from the front axle mating flange 8. drop out front axle 9. hook engine to engine hoist (if you dont have them go to the JY and find a set of factory lifting eyes and attach them makes like a lot simplier b/c its balanced) 10. make sure everything electrically, coolant, cable wise and fuel lines are removed i would crack the gas cap to keep it from building pressure and place a bolt in the line and c clamp it up to keep it from leaking 11. pull engine 12 do everything in reverse... good luck...i'll send you a huge helper via PM... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=7344&st=20 here are some pix/descriptions of my problems/ingenuity to get the job done...slick has a pretty good write up somewhere...but check for ure PM...good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveMyPatty Posted August 17, 2007 Author Share Posted August 17, 2007 Woohooo! Thanks for all the help everyone! Major things on the to do list now are... Unbolting the exhaust, pulling the starter, and unbolting the trans. Then everything is disconnected from the engine and she should come right out after I unbolt it from the engine mounts I just decided to cut the lower rad hose. For some reason I've lost half of the strength in my right hand, and couldn't grip it tight enough to twist it off. Tomorrow I'll tackle the transmission unbolting (if I have the right tools....) and the starter. I don't know what I'm going to do with the exhaust, the only lubrication I have is WD40, and I hear that it's pretty weak for things like this. My next check should go towards Thorleys I don't need to pull the tranny as well, do I? :S Just support it and unbolt it from the engine, correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 mark your connections for everything wiht tape or paint pen b/c if something comes up and it takes u a month to get back around to it, everything will be nice and marked...another good practice is putting bolts/nuts back through the mating flanges once they're removed so they dont get lost... i'd say on the dropping of the tranny...if your an auto probably no if your a manual maybe...i tried putting the clutch in after i dropped the engine in and i didnt have enough room so i just dropped it out... make your life easier and get the extensions and u joints... a good way to get exhaust bolts out is with an air impact at about 80 PSI (everyone is going to yell and scream on that advice but it works and i have yet to bust an exhaust bolt (studs are different tho cant get air in there to test those out) but I have only broken exhaust bolts by hand tools the air works wonders and i learned it from a mechanic buddy of mine at an exhaust shop...told me he'd give me $100 if i broke 1 using air so i took him up on the offer and none broke... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveMyPatty Posted August 17, 2007 Author Share Posted August 17, 2007 All nuts and bolts have gone back where they came from, all lines are masked off and marked as well. I've also taken about 60 digital pictures. Yeah, it's a manual, so it looks like the tranny is getting dropped... lammmeeee... This means I do have to buy that kit from Canadian Tire afterall.... Floor jack and jack stands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 if you have some good size friends (big ole boys) open the doors and run a tow strap down through the shifter hole and under the tranny and back up out the otehr side...put a jack handle or something strong through the loops....put a jack under it for stability and you can lower and lift the tranny pretty effectively (learned this from a guy in an apmt complex parking lot that I ended up helping him finish changing a clutch in a 94 and thats how we did it... also make sure you get a new clutch flywheel pilot bushing and all that jazz with an alignment tool and replace the rear main seal b/c theres no reason to turn around and do this again in 4 or 5 months Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveMyPatty Posted August 17, 2007 Author Share Posted August 17, 2007 I got a new clutch put in last year, so.. think it's still needed? I'm going to be replacing all of my seals, well... the ones I'm capable of doing. Getting new plugs and wires as well. I'm at a standstill now. Just came in from the shop to post a couple pictures and update everyone with my progress. I cannot get the front pipe unbolted. I've taken out two of the studs, but I cannot get the third for some really odd reason. The socket won't grab it... It probably sounds really stupid, but I don't understand what's going on. The other two came out perfectly. The starter, well.. it's ubolted but I can't get the wires off. One other thing, I hit a low stump a while back, and it hit my front pipe... I inspected it but it didn't look too bad. Now that I've gotten under there and really checked it out, she took a pretty good hit. The replacement engine looks pretty clean. I think it would look nicer with blue valve covers/intake manifold... We'll see. And, as she sits right now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 Are you just dropping this new/used motor in???? not gonna do the gaskets??? IMO, the $100 on a Gasket set and the evening or 2 to do it would be well spent time and $$$$.... While your at it, get some Thorleys as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted August 18, 2007 Share Posted August 18, 2007 I cannot get the front pipe unbolted. I've taken out two of the studs, but I cannot get the third for some really odd reason. The socket won't grab it... It probably sounds really stupid, but I don't understand what's going on. The other two came out perfectly. make sure its not bolted in from the top side...it could be stripped as well...that will be no fun...if thats the case then you may have to take off that 1 sides manifold and jack the engine up and weezle it out (given that the other side comes loose) I got a new clutch put in last year, so.. think it's still needed? thats your call...take a look at it and see what it looks like if theres hot spots and what not change it but completely up to you...if it were me i'd change it and keep the old 1 as a spare if i got into a tight spot and needed to change it just to get it around make sure you put oil in the new 1 The starter, well.. it's ubolted but I can't get the wires off. work it to the front as far as possible then disconnect the wires...or do as i did and let it hang down to the ground but make sure u undo the oil pressure wire 1st... Are you just dropping this new/used motor in???? not gonna do the gaskets??? yep very mad that i didnt just go ahead and do the oil pan gasket while i was 50% there when i did my last clutch so now it leaks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted August 18, 2007 Share Posted August 18, 2007 i never dropped mini's trans..... kept the front diff supported and trans stayed put.. no problems. no seals/gaskets.. ooh.. ida done them first.... if yer gunna delve into your clutch, do the TO bearing and RMS too... here's a couple links to my write ups/threads about my engine pulls... drama drama drama... lol http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=7681&hl= http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=4410&hl= Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted August 18, 2007 Share Posted August 18, 2007 slick did you do install the clutch and flywheel before dropping the engine in?...the FA is a mother...I seriously thought about modding the oil pan (BFH) so the next time if there is a next time I wouldnt have to worry a bout it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted August 18, 2007 Share Posted August 18, 2007 slick did you do install the clutch and flywheel before dropping the engine in?... yes, i did. i had the flywheel resurfaced while th engine was out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted August 19, 2007 Share Posted August 19, 2007 thats some good KISS (keep it simple stupid) advice... I pulled the 95 with tranny attached wish I had pix...but its only cuze the front end was smashed so I just took the sawsall and i pulled the good driver side fender and then cut straight down and folded it over then she came out really nice...it made me think the next time I do this I may want to drill out all the spot welds and just pull the front clip off and then when reinstalling it put weld studs in so if I ever need to work like timing belt and what not I can just pop it off and have the whole front end open but I'm not sure if it would work I didnt pay that much attention to it... Any updates?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveMyPatty Posted August 20, 2007 Author Share Posted August 20, 2007 No updates, I worked all weekend, so I couldn't get my hands on the Pathy. Tomorrow will be a work day on it. We'll see how it goes, I plan to have the engine out by Tuesday sometime. I need to return the hoist that the towing company lent me. Oh yeah, all of the gaskets are getting redone, I don't trust them. T-belt as well. I hope I can get it swapped over by the end of this week, that would be awesome I wish I could do the Thorleys right now, but funds are tight and I need wheels so I just want her back on the trails... Updates tomorrow evening! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveMyPatty Posted August 23, 2007 Author Share Posted August 23, 2007 Starter is out. Passenger side exhaust is unbolted from the manifold. Drivers side I haven't even touched. Looks like I have to remove the front drive shaft to do so? Or do I just sawzall the pipe off, just above the driveshaft, pull the engine out, and slap some Thorleys onto the new engine and get a whole new system made at a shop. Now it's getting to the more important part... Unbolting from the transmission and the engine mounts. How many bolts are there holding the engine down, and how many holding it to the transmission? I don't know how I'm going to reach the bolts at the top of the bellhousing.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 no you have to pull the front drivehsaft to slide the tranny backwards... sawsalling is a bad idea...just causes more cost and work.... How many bolts are there holding the engine down, and how many holding it to the transmission?I don't know how I'm going to reach the bolts at the top of the bellhousing.... Check PMs and get lots of extensions and U joints...I think I used a 12" extension and a couple of 3" and 6" extensions with deepwell sockets and it made getting to the top 3 tranny bolts a cinch... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 Do you have any type of Manual on your Pathy??? Chiltons/Haynes??? Down loaded the FSM??? If not, go do it now.... RTFB before you dive in any further, it may not have everything, but it will answer most questions... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 He's got the FSM... RTFB... read the friggin book? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 10-4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveMyPatty Posted August 24, 2007 Author Share Posted August 24, 2007 I've read the engine removal section in my Chiltons over and over again. I was more or less looking for tips on getting the top tranny bolts out. There's no way I would dive into this type of project without a manual. And uncc, the sawzalling was going to be for cutting the pipe from the drivers side manifold, so I wouldn't have to unbolt it. I need a new exhaust system anyway, and was going to put Thorleys on. So, the exhaust issue needs to be conquered, unbolt the transmission, and the engine from the mounts and she should come right out. Will I need impact sockets/extensions for the tranny bolts? I have sockets and an impact gun and ratchet, but no extensions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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