Gotrek Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 (edited) Jsut curious but one of my cams doesn't seem to line up with the timing mark. I put the engine at TDC for plug 1 (compression stroke) If I make both cams sort of lineup with the marks my rotor is pointing between plug 1 and 2. If I back it up a tad so it points at plug 1 te passenger side cam doesn't quite line up with the dot on the rear cover. The PO put the timing belt on backwards if that has anything to do with it the arrows pointing front are pointing to the back. It's possible the truck rn like crap and they advanced/retarded the timing to compensate? how would I get everything back where it needs to be? Edited August 6, 2007 by Gotrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ankana Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 Jsut curious but one of my cams doesn't seem to line up with the timing mark. I put the engine at TDC for plug 1 (compression stroke) If I make both cams sort of lineup with the marks my rotor is pointing between plug 1 and 2. If I back it up a tad so it points at plug 1 te passenger side cam doesn't quite line up with the dot on the rear cover. The PO put the timing belt on backwards if that has anything to do with it the arrows pointing front are pointing to the back. It's possible the truck rn like crap and they advanced/retarded the timing to compensate? how would I get everything back where it needs to be? It would be easier to count the teeth between the timing gears. Your belt will only occasioanlly line up with the marks after installation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 count the teeth between the cams. 40 teeth between the top sprokets and 43 between the LH sproket and the crankshaft sproket Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 The timing marks on our engines are crap. My cam marks were half a tooth off on both sides and there wasn't a crank mark at all (made my own). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 There should be a mark on the crank sprocket, it should be at the 5:30 position, with the keyway at about 11:30... Its 43 teeth from the drivers side cam mark to the crank sprocket, mark. Odds are that there will not be an alignment mark on your oil pump, out of 5 motors i have done, only the JDM engine out of the Max had the mark on the oil pump housing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gotrek Posted August 7, 2007 Author Share Posted August 7, 2007 There should be a mark on the crank sprocket, it should be at the 5:30 position, with the keyway at about 11:30... Its 43 teeth from the drivers side cam mark to the crank sprocket, mark. Odds are that there will not be an alignment mark on your oil pump, out of 5 motors i have done, only the JDM engine out of the Max had the mark on the oil pump housing. Ok that's about where my crank and tensionner key line up (5:30 and 11:30) I made my own marks as well there was a mark on the gear on the crank but no where on the oil pump. Thanks all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 Align the top 2 as close as you can get them, keeping the Rotor pointing at the #1 wire, then slip the belt on the crank, aligning the mark on the sprocket with the mark on the belt 43teeth and its at about 5:30. Then slip the Tensioner in... its fun, the 94-95's i can do without an extra hand, the older ones a extra set of hands comes in handy.... You can do it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATHRIDER Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 Casey ill stop by your house and show me how its done since I have a 93 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 Casey ill stop by your house and show me how its done since I have a 93 Your profile is not filled in. If your close by, i would be happy to assist... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gotrek Posted August 9, 2007 Author Share Posted August 9, 2007 Your profile is not filled in. If your close by, i would be happy to assist... Woot, Belt is in counted 40 teeth from cam to cam mark and 43 from driver side cam to crank mark. Well I spun it around 2-3 times to check the tension and it seems good. Finally! re-assembly tomorrow. It's brain juice time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 just make sure the belt is not to tight or it will whine.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gotrek Posted August 9, 2007 Author Share Posted August 9, 2007 just make sure the belt is not to tight or it will whine.... Check But is noise the only side effect? I could go for some noisy gear drive/super charger whine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 you don't want to have to redo this in a short time do you? get a different muffler or some cards/feathers in your spokes, man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gotrek Posted August 10, 2007 Author Share Posted August 10, 2007 (edited) Well I'm done. Belt is in truck runs 100 times better (belt was on backwards probably off a tooth) idles smoother anyways. But...... I followed the directions I swear... The key on the tensionner is pointing the right way. I twisted the belt so it wouldn't go past 90 degrees.... Sigh it's whining... (I like it) But I'm guessing the belt will stretch break and all that bad stuff? Am I alowed a break in period where it might quiet down? How much looser should I make it. It might be normal whine the engine ran rough before and maybe I couldn't hear it. Could be the accessory belts too I'm going to find my stehoscope tomorrow to find out. Hey but at least no leaks and that bypass hose is done for a while. Is it possible to remove just the lower timing cover (after taking the belts and dampener off?) Edited August 10, 2007 by Gotrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gotrek Posted August 10, 2007 Author Share Posted August 10, 2007 (edited) well went for short spin. I've heard whinier engines going to lossen the accesory belts tomorrow and check them. It's not noticeable inside with the windows rolled down but outside you can definately hear a bit of a whine and with the hood open a bit more. I only own v8's with timing chains so all new to me Guess I know what I'm doing tomorrow. I measured the belt deflectionas per my shop manual too it was around 1/2" with the suggested amount o force applied. Edited August 10, 2007 by Gotrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GhostPath Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 well went for short spin. I've heard whinier engines going to lossen the accesory belts tomorrow and check them. It's not noticeable inside with the windows rolled down but outside you can definately hear a bit of a whine and with the hood open a bit more. I only own v8's with timing chains so all new to me Guess I know what I'm doing tomorrow. I measured the belt deflectionas per my shop manual too it was around 1/2" with the suggested amount o force applied. FYI and IIRC, the VG30 does whir a bit, even when it was new. It's the water pump plus the belt drive system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 take the drive belts off 1 at a time to make sure its them..... if its not then its only a little over a dozen bolts.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gotrek Posted August 10, 2007 Author Share Posted August 10, 2007 I think I know what I might of screwed up. does the end of the spring on the tensionner go under or above the stud? I put mine under as this was the only way it had "spring" Is this correct? I've seen pictures online where it is above (but these are pictures of dissasembly) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clantieri Posted August 12, 2007 Share Posted August 12, 2007 I think I know what I might of screwed up. does the end of the spring on the tensionner go under or above the stud? I put mine under as this was the only way it had "spring" Is this correct? I've seen pictures online where it is above (but these are pictures of dissasembly) I just replaced the belt in my 92. If I rememeber correctly, the tensioner spring was above the stud. Mine also whines a bit, but has gotten better with the first 100 miles or so I've driven it. Good luck with it! Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gotrek Posted August 13, 2007 Author Share Posted August 13, 2007 I just replaced the belt in my 92. If I rememeber correctly, the tensioner spring was above the stud. Mine also whines a bit, but has gotten better with the first 100 miles or so I've driven it. Good luck with it! Chris Yep it goes on top (someone should edit the how to change your timing belt post in the garage) I reread through my FSM and it clearly states to rotate the tensionner to the right until the keyway reaches 5 - 5:30 in relation to the tensionner bolt. This would land the spring on top. I'm going back in there tonight shouldn't take long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted August 15, 2007 Share Posted August 15, 2007 If I am thinking correctly, where the spring is doesn't much matter. Once you torque the tensioner bolt, it (and the belt tension) are locked. I believe the spring is there just to keep a little load on the tensioner to minimize risk of belt slipping while putting it all together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gotrek Posted August 15, 2007 Author Share Posted August 15, 2007 (edited) All good now. Edited August 15, 2007 by Gotrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted August 15, 2007 Share Posted August 15, 2007 All good now. See it was not that difficult... Kinda fun too wasnt it.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gotrek Posted August 15, 2007 Author Share Posted August 15, 2007 See it was not that difficult... Kinda fun too wasnt it.... One thing for sure is I'm not scared to dive in there and do it again. I'm contemplating doing my leaky exhaust next but I don't think I have the patience to do it with the engine in the truck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted August 15, 2007 Share Posted August 15, 2007 ARE YOU SURE YOU HAVE THE PATIENCE TO REMOVE THE MOTOR? THAT'S HELLA LOT OF WORK MAN. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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