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Engine Wont Start


PATHY90
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So i finished replacing both heads b/c of a torn cams.. i triple checked the timeing so as to there being no problems. i aligned the cams with the marking on the back cover and removed the #1 spark plug to find the compresion stroke. put my finger over the hole and cranked it till she was blowing. figured thats the compresion stroke. put a screw driver in the hole and slowly cranked it till it reached TDC plus the marking on the gear was a 5:30. put on the belt cranked her 8-10 times to she if she's going to be aligned. everything looked ok.. whith the only exception that i didn't have much resistance when i was turning her over... i was a bit concered but i figured everything is linded up so it should be ok. well finished all the rest of the misc. stuff and went to start her. nothing.... the started tries to turn but the engine wont start??? i took of the dizzy and it's pointing to the 2 cylinder...i know it was pointing to the first went i put it in. i marked were the first cylinder plug gose on the body and worked around that.. so know i'm thinking my timing is off??? or it's not gettting any fuel... i need help i need her started tomorrow. is there a give her fuel directily to the head.. if any one has any ideas that would be great. also if you have a suggestion give a brief description of how i can fix it... thanks a mill...

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Did you redo the Valves???

 

Sounds like you have all the alignment marks where they are supposed to be.... Loosen the bolt on the dizzy and spin it all they way clock wise... try and start it, if it wont light, spin it counter clockwise....

 

When I put my 91 back together, I was off on the dizzy install by about 3 teeth... I had to pull plug #1, bring it all the way to the top, then pull up the Dizzy and adjust it manually, 1 tooth at a time......

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Did you redo the Valves???

 

Sounds like you have all the alignment marks where they are supposed to be.... Loosen the bolt on the dizzy and spin it all they way clock wise... try and start it, if it wont light, spin it counter clockwise....

 

When I put my 91 back together, I was off on the dizzy install by about 3 teeth... I had to pull plug #1, bring it all the way to the top, then pull up the Dizzy and adjust it manually, 1 tooth at a time......

 

 

well i took the fan off and removed the radiator and she spone by hand normally. so i decided to starther up for a split second with out coolent and she started to turning just didn't have enought gas to start.. so i figured every thing is ok put everything back same deal cranked one then no go...... to make a story short after f%$king around with it for 4 hours trying to go over ever detail. i noticed a water running down the bell housing.... well she had water coming out of the third injetctor. pulled the plug out all wet... turned her over and no prob... other then the waterfall i was getting from the third cylinder... turns out the head gasket i replaced new didn't hold. so i have a drowned cylinder.so now the question is can is can i remove the heads soak up the coolent. use the same gaskets(they were just installed), get new head bolts(i reused the old ones), and put everything back together. well i have to drain the oil now too...or is the engine a write off??

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use the same gaskets(they were just installed)

 

no i woudlnt do that...it sucks but more than likely its toast...did you clean the surfaces on both the heads and block before mating the 2 together?

 

i wouldnt say the engine is done...the rings should keep most of the water out of the engine (as long as it didnt bend/crack a rod or damage anything else)

 

sorry to hear about that...

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no i woudlnt do that...it sucks but more than likely its toast...did you clean the surfaces on both the heads and block before mating the 2 together?

 

Headgaskets are like condoms - single use only, throw them away after the first installation.

 

Sorry to say, you need new headgaskets and you need to have the heads checked for cracks and flatness.

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no i woudlnt do that...it sucks but more than likely its toast...did you clean the surfaces on both the heads and block before mating the 2 together?

 

i wouldnt say the engine is done...the rings should keep most of the water out of the engine (as long as it didnt bend/crack a rod or damage anything else)

 

sorry to hear about that...

 

 

how would i crack a rod if i couldn't start the engine. but again with my luck. you never know... i'm just worried i could have hydro locked the engine...

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water in most normal situations is incompressible...if the cylinder was completely full of water as it tried to turn over without any air (to compress) the rod would bend or something else could break (blow out a head gasket or something to that effect)...once you remove the heads the engine will no longer be "hydrolocked"

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water in most normal situations is incompressible...if the cylinder was completely full of water as it tried to turn over without any air (to compress) the rod would bend or something else could break (blow out a head gasket or something to that effect)...once you remove the heads the engine will no longer be "hydrolocked"

 

thanks for all the advice i removed the head today to get the water out and drain all the oil since it's milky. i didn't vlow the gasket to the water was coming out from the injetcors.. the heads are going to the machine shop. and i have to wait for my new bolts and gaskets...i have another problem thought i can't take out the crankshaft bolt i tryed sticking a screw driver into the cams but the crankpully just skips teeth.... any one has any advice on what to do...i toueqed the bolt to 65 ft/lb like it says....so i'm at a lost..

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Crank bolt removal....

 

pop the starter out(2 14mm bolts) slide it forward about 3" and jam a flat bladed screw driver in the flywheel teeth.... slowly turning the bolt the screw driver will lock the wheel inplace for breaking the torque.... Re-Torquing the bolt is the reverse....

 

Easier if you have 2 people, but you can do it by yourself if needed....

Edited by Casey.T
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Crank bolt removal....

 

pop the starter out(2 14mm bolts) slide it forward about 3" and jam a flat bladed screw driver in the flywheel teeth.... slowly turning the bolt the screw driver will lock the wheel inplace for breaking the torque.... Re-Torquing the bolt is the reverse....

 

Easier if you have 2 people, but you can do it by yourself if needed....

 

how strong are the teeth on the fly wheel. b/c i already broke one screw driver when i jammed the cam pulley

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how strong are the teeth on the fly wheel. b/c i already broke one screw driver when i jammed the cam pulley

 

Use a Craftsman screwdriver. They'll replace it if you break it

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i have always done it alone and never been able to jam the flywheel...i always stick an extension and my 18" breaker bar on there and whack it with a dead blow hammer (works slowly like an impact gun and can break it loose that way....

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Once again, use a v-belt pulley wrench to hold the pulley while you loosen or tighten the crank bolt. Or put an old belt back on it and use vise-grips or something to squeeze the belt together in the middle, that should provide enough friction to prevent the crank from turning.

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Once again, use a v-belt pulley wrench to hold the pulley while you loosen or tighten the crank bolt. Or put an old belt back on it and use vise-grips or something to squeeze the belt together in the middle, that should provide enough friction to prevent the crank from turning.

 

 

i can't really put on an old belt since i can't take out the harmonic balancer..so the lower cover is still on.

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wedge something (wood) between the belt and one of your cam sprockets. When I did mine, I removed the valve cover so I could lay a big-ass screwdriver through the cam sprocket and on the head. I am shocked if you could break a screwdriver that way. If you can get the belt to be tight (clamp, wedge, etc) so it won't slip, there should not be an issue. Are you turning it the right way? (never hurts to ask)

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wedge something (wood) between the belt and one of your cam sprockets. When I did mine, I removed the valve cover so I could lay a big-ass screwdriver through the cam sprocket and on the head. I am shocked if you could break a screwdriver that way. If you can get the belt to be tight (clamp, wedge, etc) so it won't slip, there should not be an issue. Are you turning it the right way? (never hurts to ask)

 

 

lefty loosy righty tighty....so i'm crancking her to the left.

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lefty loosy righty tighty....so i'm crancking her to the left.

I had a fleeting thought that it was a reverse-thread bolt. I just checked mine and it's normal.

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