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Dealer Repair/service Issues (list)


AssBeard
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Hey guys, I took advantage of Nissan's lovely "Absolutely Free 100-Point Spectacular Courtesy Inspection Check-Up" at the brand new dealership here in Okie.

 

As could be predicted, they found quite a few things that need to be fixed/replaced. I know very little about cars, so I'd like to know what out of these things is legit and what is bogus.

 

Also, anything you can tell me about the parts, replacement, costs, etc etc would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

Here is what they gave me:

 

-Thermal Wax Pellet/Element - $421

-Tires, BF Goodrich - $653.72

-Valve Cover leaking oil - $556.16

-Belts cracking - $145

-LEFT CV Axle Boot - $270

-RIGHT CV Axle Boot - $270

-Coolant Flush - $135

-Rear Main - $1060

-Oil Flush - $125

-Fuel Induction - $155

-Rear Differential Service - $95

-Front Differential Service - $95

 

What's funny is that they didn't mention anything about the loud as hell, annoying passenger side exhaust manifold leak.

 

What does all the stuff on that list mean? Besides the obvious fluid flushes, tires, etc.

 

P.S. The whip is a 97 SE 4WD with about 124,000 miles. Unfortunately, I got the car with 120,000 so it doesn't qualify for the exhaust manifold recall/TSB. :(

Edited by AssBeard
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Yeah, that's what I figured. I don't really know what any of that stuff even is though. I mean....what is a "thermal wax element"?

 

The tires are worn and the belts probably need to be replaced. The other stuff I'm still skeptical of. You guys know much more about these cars than I do, so what other things from that list (specifically) should be done??

 

 

 

I have to get this beast into tip-top shape before my baby comes. This is my old lady's daily driver and she'll be hauling around the lil' dude in it so it needs to be as close to perfect as reasonably possible.

Edited by AssBeard
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thermal wax i don't think is necessary. belts and tires are very good idea. cv axle boots if they are torn yeah replace them. exhaust manifold if money allows do headers. my driver side is leaking but i'm going to do headers when funds allow. the other stuff i'm not sure of but i'm sure someone else will comment on those.

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Where in OK did you get that check up? I live in OK and need to get mine checked anyways... and a FREE inspection would be best!

 

Well, I got it done at the new Bob Moore off I-35 in Norman, but it was from one of their courtesy card things they sent me. I just called them, told them I had a card and scheduled an appointment. They are doing them through the end of the month. They never asked for my card....even if they ask to see your card you could just tell them you left it at home or something. :shiftyeyes:

 

 

thermal wax i don't think is necessary. belts and tires are very good idea. cv axle boots if they are torn yeah replace them. exhaust manifold if money allows do headers. my driver side is leaking but i'm going to do headers when funds allow. the other stuff i'm not sure of but i'm sure someone else will comment on those.

 

Unfortunately, last time I checked there are no available headers for R50's. :(

Local shops won't do custom jobs either because they know about the infamous usually-seized Nissan studs. :(

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-Thermal Wax Pellet/Element - $421

 

Absolutely not necessary. Waste of money.

 

-Tires, BF Goodrich - $653.72

 

If the tires are badly worn, I do suggest getting new ones, however the Dealership is the last place I'd get them.

 

-Valve Cover leaking oil - $556.16

 

Thoroughly clean the engine and see for yourself. If it is indeed leaking, it's probably just a bad seal.

 

-Belts cracking - $145

 

Has the timing belt been changed? If the accessory belts are cracking, might want to take a look at the timing belt as well. If they're cracked, replace them.

 

-LEFT CV Axle Boot - $270

-RIGHT CV Axle Boot - $270

 

$270 for a BOOT is outlandish. You can buy a Remanufactured whole CV axle for $60 + core and do it yourself in about an hour per side.

 

-Coolant Flush - $135

 

Smell the coolant, if it smells burnt, get it flushed.

 

-Rear Main - $1060

 

Price is about right for an RMS, but if it's not leaking, then there is no reason to do it. Get the engine and underbody thoroughly cleaned and degreased and see if it's leaking. Check the transmission fluid for oil mixture. If there is oil mixture in the ATF, do the RMS.

 

-Oil Flush - $125

 

Oil FLUSH? I'm sorry, but I don't buy this. Go to AutoZone and buy 4 quarts of oil for $11 and do it yourself.

 

-Fuel Induction - $155

 

This is a good service to have done, if it hasn't been done. It'll clean out your intake and fuel systems, however, $155 is high for it. You can have it done for about $75-80 at a local, private, shop.

 

-Rear Differential Service - $95

-Front Differential Service - $95

 

The differential services are a good thing to have done as well.

 

I also suggest a transmission fluid change, and a power steering flush if you're doing all of the fluids, unless they were recently done.

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since the cv boot was mentioned, recently when putting on my SL i noticed that mine was torn on drivers side, and looks as if abit of mud/dirt etc got in there, any special away to clean all that out, and what's the difference between the inner/outer? or suggestions possibly before i go and buy new boot to put on

Edited by ShadowManR6
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Hey guys, I took advantage of Nissan's lovely "Absolutely Free 100-Point Spectacular Courtesy Inspection Check-Up" at the brand new dealership here in Okie.

 

As could be predicted, they found quite a few things that need to be fixed/replaced. I know very little about cars, so I'd like to know what out of these things is legit and what is bogus.

 

Also, anything you can tell me about the parts, replacement, costs, etc etc would be greatly appreciated.

Here is what they gave me:

 

-Thermal Wax Pellet/Element - $421

-Tires, BF Goodrich - $653.72

-Valve Cover leaking oil - $556.16

-Belts cracking - $145

-LEFT CV Axle Boot - $270

-RIGHT CV Axle Boot - $270

-Coolant Flush - $135

-Rear Main - $1060

-Oil Flush - $125

-Fuel Induction - $155

-Rear Differential Service - $95

-Front Differential Service - $95

 

What's funny is that they didn't mention anything about the loud as hell, annoying passenger side exhaust manifold leak.

 

What does all the stuff on that list mean? Besides the obvious fluid flushes, tires, etc.

 

P.S. The whip is a 97 SE 4WD with about 124,000 miles. Unfortunately, I got the car with 120,000 so it doesn't qualify for the exhaust manifold recall/TSB. :(

 

 

Well, heres my take...

 

Thermal wax/element? Im guessing the TPS, usually need to be adjusted, sometimes replaced. Can effect shifting among other things.

 

Tires? Look at your tires. If you need them replaced, shop around. And actually the dealers are trying to be competitive so, make them work for it.

 

Vavle cover leaking oil..easy fix. Get a long phillips screwdriver and tighten the screws! They love to back off and leak. Clean and go!

 

Drive Belts are easy to do yourself. The price is about right for the dealer.

 

CV boots, if thats what they are charging for the parts and labor, its not a bad deal.

 

Rear main seal...I would crawl under and look to see how bad its leaking. Sometimes it may not be the rear main. It may be the oil pan rear seal leaking. Make sure if you have it done, go look at the leak once they have it apart!

 

The rest is basic service work. If you havent had any of those fluids changed, its a good idea. The oil flush, I would ask exactly what they do. Some are a poor in and then change the oil. Others are a machine you hook up to the engine and it pumps a chemical through the engine. The one we use at my work actually does a really good job of cleaning varnish and carbon. It backflushes the oil pickup to clean the screen and get sucked out of the drain hole.

 

Oh, and some guys just dont want to do the exhaust manifold. Its actually not a very hard job, just takes time and a lot of patience! Hope this helps!

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since the cv boot was mentioned, recently when putting on my SL i noticed that mine was torn on drivers side, and looks as if abit of mud/dirt etc got in there, any special away to clean all that out, and what's the difference between the inner/outer? or suggestions possibly before i go and buy new boot to put on

 

 

There is a difference in the boots, physically. Also, they usually have a different kind of grease in the inner joint. Ive rebuilt mine, Ive rebuilt others several times. If you can get the boot kits cheap enough and do the work yourself, you save a ton of money. If you want to clean dirt and debris out, usually some clean rags will do most of the work. I have used a parts wash machine to clean the joint a time or two. You may be able to use brake clean or some degreaser in a bucket. Just remember bare metal does not like water and oxygen for too long(Rust). The other choice is you can get a remanufactured axle assembly for under $100. Check the local parts house. And they sometimes warranty them!

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I'm getting my cv boots done right now.....by a local shop (that I can trust)

 

I also had my local Nissan give me a quote

 

Everyone (exept the dealership) said that you should replace the CV joint when you do the boot. The joint is the part that the boot is protecting- blown boot eventually = blown joint. The joint is only about $25 more and it needs to be taken apart to remove the boot, so why wait......

 

Nissan Dealership = $280 per side - not including the joint

 

Local Shop = $175 per side - boots and joints

 

There is noooo need to do this at Nissan, but it should be done.

 

The only thing I had them do, for a little extra, was the timing.......

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since the cv boot was mentioned, recently when putting on my SL i noticed that mine was torn on drivers side, and looks as if abit of mud/dirt etc got in there, any special away to clean all that out, and what's the difference between the inner/outer? or suggestions possibly before i go and buy new boot to put on

 

 

yeah, clean it thoroughly. they have solvents for this at the auto parts store.

 

and yeah the boots are different and so are the joints themselves.

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My GOD, who pays $95 per diff to pull two plugs and put new gear oil in? OW!

 

Yeah, funny they didn't suggest replacing the exhaust, that'd be a whole 'nother bag of worms.

 

A thermal element/wax choke is used on 87-89 VG30i's for cold idle speed. I didn't think 97's had that. *looks* By God, they DO have one. Right on the throttlebody. That'd be easy as anything to replace yourself.

 

On the CV boots, I just buy new boots for $11 each and rebuild the axle. It's cheap, easy and saves a TON of money if you can do it yourself.

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heres the web site for those of you not in colorado

 

http://www.nissanusa.com/apps/servicecoupons

 

when here you will need to put in your zip and it will bring up a service coupon offer but thats the page you need to get the add. this is prob the easiest way to get in on this offer as this page will bring up all the dealerships in your ares as well as phone numbers and hours to those dealerships

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IIRC the cracked exaust manifold problem was a factory recall. But I think the recall runs out at 100k miles. Might be why they didnt mention the exaust leak. Dealer replaced mine at 97k, no charge.

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got mine done today and ive got some issues with their service. the things that they said for the most part i knew needed to be fixed such as the struts need to be changed, exhaust leak etc. my problem is that they said that my steering rack is leaking this was news to me and i hadnt noticed anything in the past. when i got home to check out what they had said needed to be fixed i noticed that the steering is leaking majorly now and i have no idea why. Could theyh have caused this leak and is not could they have caused it to get worse?

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