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NEW Safari Rack Pro Comp Light Mounts


govols74n
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Ok, started this thread to show you guys how to use C.B. antenna mounts ($6.00 each from a truck stop) to mount lights on a safari rack or spare tire carrier. I still need to wire them up and paint them flat black. Light tabs are selling in some shops for $40.00 a piece. This is a cheap alternative, although a weld is best.

Heres the CB mount ;)

CBMounts.jpg

You need to remove this part...just un twist :)

ProCompLights13.jpg

Like this

ProCompLights.jpg

Install light like this. sly

ProCompLights1.jpg

another

ProCompLights12.jpg

What it looks like

ProCompLights11.jpg

mounts on rack with 4 bolts, has grooves inside that grip to prevent slipping.

ProCompLights7.jpg

ProCompLights8.jpg

ProCompLights5.jpg

ProCompLights9.jpg

ProCompLights4.jpg:D

Edited by govols74n
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Simple, easy, effective... What's not to like? :clap:

 

A suggestion: Replace the nuts with nylon insert style, and then tighten just enough to hold in place during driving but not super tight. Then when you hit a branch (or a kamikaze bird), the brackets will be able to rotate and maybe prevent tearing off or otherwise destroying the light!

Then your method becomes arguably BETTER than welded tabs...

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Simple, easy, effective... What's not to like? :clap:

 

A suggestion: Replace the nuts with nylon insert style, and then tighten just enough to hold in place during driving but not super tight. Then when you hit a branch (or a kamikaze bird), the brackets will be able to rotate and maybe prevent tearing off or otherwise destroying the light!

Then your method becomes arguably BETTER than welded tabs...

good idea....thanx

 

And, to me, the 6x9 lights do look HUGE, but I guess I will get used 2 them. :D

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yea they look big, but i was expecting them to look bigger :)

 

any smaller, and im not sure, but i think they would be too small.

 

who knows...who cares, it works, it looks good, and bam, your good to go

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Simple, easy, effective... What's not to like? :clap:

 

A suggestion: Replace the nuts with nylon insert style, and then tighten just enough to hold in place during driving but not super tight. Then when you hit a branch (or a kamikaze bird), the brackets will be able to rotate and maybe prevent tearing off or otherwise destroying the light!

Then your method becomes arguably BETTER than welded tabs...

If you don't crank the adjustment bolt the light will swivel no matter how its mounted...but it does look good and I'm probly gonna use those to mount rear lights on my tire carrier. Good job! :aok:

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Guest SuperSon

Looks good gov. Itll even look better if you change those bolts to a stainless steel socket button head bolts :cool2:

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Looks awesome govol!!

 

Now the silly question, how or where do you take the wires into the cab?

Not a silly question at all, I do have the wiring harness, but haven't had time to run the wires yet. Most likely down the track on the stock roof rack to a door sill then on to the engine bay. I might look at it tonight. Not trying the moon/sun roof because then it might leak.

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grommets and silicone goop are your friend :)

My Pathy (back when I had her) just had a hole drilled through near the rise on the roof, near the passenger side door. Was only sealed with silicone, not pretty but effective. MUCH more effective than the 20 year old sunroof seals lol.

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I might add that silicone does start looking rather nasty after its been on a roof for a few years ;) I scraped all the crap off and replaced with new before I sold my truck though.

 

*sigh* all this talk about lights is making me 4x4 sick.....hmmmm, wonder what a light bar would look like on a VW sssh

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I might add that silicone does start looking rather nasty after its been on a roof for a few years ;) I scraped all the crap off and replaced with new before I sold my truck though.

 

*sigh* all this talk about lights is making me 4x4 sick.....hmmmm, wonder what a light bar would look like on a VW sssh

You've got me thinking about breaking the drill out....might need to go buy that black silicine I found the other day....Hmm.

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If you take the time to look you could probably locate some grommets that, if done right would eliminate the need for silicone... or would reduce it to simply working as a gap filler and adhesive for the grommet.

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If you take the time to look you could probably locate some grommets that, if done right would eliminate the need for silicone... or would reduce it to simply working as a gap filler and adhesive for the grommet.

Yes sir, that's what I plan on doing....2 rubber grommets/silicone to make me feel better/a drill/ wiring harness....beer :beer:

Edited by govols74n
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