prginocx Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 '95 Pathfinder, Manual 5spd, AC, PS, PB, 4X4. With the 3.0 v6 engine. Wouldn't start after a short drive during lunch hour at work. Waited 5 min, finally it started. It did take me home after work. No trouble starting. I got 'er home and looked at the starter 'cause I've had trouble with that little red wire on top on the spade connector...It has come loose before and gave the same symptom. Symptom is: Go to crank, all lights in dash ON including check engine, won't turn over at all. I'm not sure I even hear the relay click. So anyway at home I took that wire off the spade connector it was pretty greasy with oil (filter is right there) and cut off the connector. I put a new connector on with a 4" length of lighter guage wire cause the heavier wire was pulling on the connector, and it is only a slide on... But now it won't start at all, and it does the same thing. I do have +12v on the red wire when I turn the key, but no turn over at all. I do have 12v on the other huge wire on the big terminal on the starter. Also I did check all the fuses and I did check the fusible links at the battery + terminal. I did check the ground to the engine also... I haven't tried jump starting it, but the windows and headlights seem strong. Plus the battery is only about 16 months old... Where do I go from here ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prginocx Posted March 7, 2007 Author Share Posted March 7, 2007 Also about two months ago I did install a spring "helper" device that kinda worked good to take away the pathy typical rear sag look which I hate, plus I need it for towing the boat. It is a set of Air Lift 1000 springs from JC whitney. they are bladders you push inside the rear coil springs and then inflate. They seem to be working well, they were easy to install, and they weren't too expensive... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
govols74n Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 '95 Pathfinder, Manual 5spd, AC, PS, PB, 4X4. With the 3.0 v6 engine. Wouldn't start after a short drive during lunch hour at work. Waited 5 min, finally it started. It did take me home after work. No trouble starting. I got 'er home and looked at the starter 'cause I've had trouble with that little red wire on top on the spade connector...It has come loose before and gave the same symptom. Symptom is: Go to crank, all lights in dash ON including check engine, won't turn over at all. I'm not sure I even hear the relay click. So anyway at home I took that wire off the spade connector it was pretty greasy with oil (filter is right there) and cut off the connector. I put a new connector on with a 4" length of lighter guage wire cause the heavier wire was pulling on the connector, and it is only a slide on... But now it won't start at all, and it does the same thing. I do have +12v on the red wire when I turn the key, but no turn over at all. I do have 12v on the other huge wire on the big terminal on the starter. Also I did check all the fuses and I did check the fusible links at the battery + terminal. I did check the ground to the engine also... I haven't tried jump starting it, but the windows and headlights seem strong. Plus the battery is only about 16 months old... Where do I go from here ? Sounds like you probably need to just go get it (starter) tested....I'm sure you banged on it and tried to touch the two terminals with a screwdriver....next is to test it imo. Those helper springs would be nice if you could air up the front too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 Tap on that inhibitor relay by the battery and see if it starts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prginocx Posted March 7, 2007 Author Share Posted March 7, 2007 Oops, I forgot to add, this guy has very low mileage at 93k...It was sitting in a body shop yard for 2 years...Then I bought it in Nov of 2005. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meangreenmachine Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 If you have 12 volts on the little wire in the crank position and 12 volts on the big one it sounds like you should get the starter tested like govols said. Another possibility maybe that you have a bad cell in your battery. It can give you 12 volts but 0 cca! May want to check that before you pull starter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prginocx Posted March 8, 2007 Author Share Posted March 8, 2007 Well I did swap in the relay quick like before it started raining AGAIN !! I hate working on stuff outside in the rain ! Anyway, I guess I'll have to swap out the starter this weekend. I did get it to start one more time, but now it has failed twice again... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prginocx Posted March 14, 2007 Author Share Posted March 14, 2007 Well, I did replace the relay on the fender near the battery. I also ended up replacing the starter (Very fun taking that out...) And now it starts fairly reliably and I'm back driving it on a regular basis. HOWEVER, sometimes it doesn't start on the first try...I have to cycle the key back and try again. This only happens when the vehicle is fully warmed up, I stop for a moment to get stamps, then try to restart, it won't crank at all on the first try. No solenoid click at all, then turn the key all the way off, and try again...Always works teh second time. Now what ? Should I resort to that other guys method ? Get a splitting maul, stand in front of the truck, open the hood and threaten its very existence ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted March 14, 2007 Share Posted March 14, 2007 Double check your connections the Pos and the Ground. and not just at the battery, follow the wires down and around. Starter Trick... Rotate it so the solinoid is in the 12 to 1 oclock positions, then slide it forward past the motor mount and over the center link.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted March 14, 2007 Share Posted March 14, 2007 (edited) Starter Trick... Rotate it so the solinoid is in the 12 to 1 oclock positions, then slide it forward past the motor mount and over the center link.... note: sometimes doesn't work. I usually work on my pathy with the wheels up on ramps so I would imagine that if you used jack stands under the frame and let the front droop, you'd have the clearance to slide it out. I can neither confirm nor deny this claim as I have only changed my starter once and it was a royal PITA! of course, maybe Thomas has one of those little sissy starters Edited March 14, 2007 by k9sar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted March 14, 2007 Share Posted March 14, 2007 Drooping the Suspension does not help you get past the Motor Mount.... K9, if you would get a SL with some decent tires you would not need ramps ya wussy... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted March 14, 2007 Share Posted March 14, 2007 losing some weight would help too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prginocx Posted March 15, 2007 Author Share Posted March 15, 2007 I should add that I was parked on the downhill side of the parking lot, this is Oregon, and it was around 5pm when I got started. So the negative was my anger built steadily working on it with no jack/ramp or anything, no turning your shoulders while under the vehicle...And hold the damn flashlight in your mouth. At 23 that would have been a minor inconvenience, at 43 my neck is still sore from the ordeal. The positive was rainwater accumulates on the down hill side of all parking lots in Oregon this time of year, so laying in the cold water helped me to cool off !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prginocx Posted March 15, 2007 Author Share Posted March 15, 2007 Just went out side and the #$!&^% won't start again. Now I do hear the pretty loud solenoid click, but it doesn't crank at all....I guess I'll ask the boss for a jump, and pray... Damn !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 16, 2007 Share Posted March 16, 2007 Check your batter contacts, that exact same thing happend to me a while ago, just clicked loudly, cleaned and tightend contacts, not a problem since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted March 16, 2007 Share Posted March 16, 2007 hmmm.. i'd third the 'check all your connections and contacts.' could possibly be the switch in the steering column too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgt Posted March 16, 2007 Share Posted March 16, 2007 have a '92 XE w/ 105 miles. It has had 2 new ignition switches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prginocx Posted March 16, 2007 Author Share Posted March 16, 2007 Ok, I'm sorry to bother you guys... When I loaded the new chrome wheels in the back, the rear dome light was on...Oops my bad. Yes like a dumb@!*% I did ignore the red warning light on the dash. I guess that is why this time I heard the distinct solenoid click.... I jumped it and it started fine... I'm not thrilled the battery lost enough ummph ! to start just for running the dome light for about 4 hours....Seems kinda weak to me... My ignition switch is kinda loose on the column....It moves in and out...I guess I'll fuss with that this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted March 16, 2007 Share Posted March 16, 2007 Yep.....4 hours on a weak battery will do it. My old battery, about 6 months before it crapped out completely only took 1 hour with an interior light on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
govols74n Posted March 18, 2007 Share Posted March 18, 2007 (edited) Ok, I'm sorry to bother you guys...When I loaded the new chrome wheels in the back, the rear dome light was on...Oops my bad. Yes like a dumb@!*% I did ignore the red warning light on the dash. I guess that is why this time I heard the distinct solenoid click.... I jumped it and it started fine... I'm not thrilled the battery lost enough ummph ! to start just for running the dome light for about 4 hours....Seems kinda weak to me... My ignition switch is kinda loose on the column....It moves in and out...I guess I'll fuss with that this weekend. Okay, let me ask this....do you have a aftermarket alarm installed with remote start by any chance? Edited March 18, 2007 by govols74n Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prginocx Posted March 20, 2007 Author Share Posted March 20, 2007 I believe it does have aftermarket alarm installed, 'cause I saw some extra wires near the ignition switch area when I was working on tightening it up... Also it has the horn thing mounted to the L side fender adjacent to the exhaust manifold. Also it does chirp when I disconnect the battery. Hard to say if the alarm has remote start, though. I don't have a keyfob. Wouldn't even a regular alarm have some connections near the ignition switch, even if it didn't have aftermarket remote start ? PS It did it again this weekend one time. Seems like it follows a pattern: Drive 15 min, stop for 10, drive 10 stop for 10, drive for 10 stop for 10 min....Then it won't start unless I let it stay off for about 2 hours or maybe 1.5 hours. And I don't hear the solenoid click, either. Where would this "aftermarket alarm" computer control thing be mounted ? All I see it the horn and those extra wires I mentioned. I mean it does have to have a control module somewhere, right ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prginocx Posted March 20, 2007 Author Share Posted March 20, 2007 (edited) I should have mentioned the switch on the center console for alarm is OFF. I've checked it several times. It has always been OFF 'cause I don't have the keyfob. Also I should mention I did have a Battery Load test run on the battery...Firestone said this actually loads the battery several times with a load similar to starting juice, to make sure the battery can supply that level of starting current. I am currently carrying an extra battery (From the boat) around with me, so at least next time I'll try that right away, that should eliminate the battery from the equation all together. I'm also going to make a little wire w/spade connector, so next time I can just leave the key in ON and short that extra lead on the starter directly to the battery ( With a fuse in line of course...) and try starting it that way... I hate these type of intermittent problems !! For cryin' out loud, if there was just smoke pouring out of the damn thing, I could pinpoint the problem easily !! Edited March 20, 2007 by prginocx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prginocx Posted March 29, 2007 Author Share Posted March 29, 2007 Ok, I've been troubleshooting this problem be eliminating parts of the starting system one at a time, and then driving all over the place waiting for this problem to happen again. The big cable going to the starter seems fine, so I'm working with the little wire which has all the other crap that tells the starter to turn.. Anyway, I now have the clutch pedal switch (Tells you the pedal is depressed ) jumped out and I have NOT had the non-start problem for almost 6 days. Jumping the battery didn't help by the way...and neither did jumping out the ignition switch. I think I may have found the problem, but I'll give it another week or so just to be sure. NAPA doesn't have the switch it seems, and the brakelight switch they wanted to substitute is OPEN with the plunger pushed in instead of CLOSED which is what I need. I hate going to the dealership, they are a$$holes plus really expensive, and no returns...One major reason a new Nissan isn't in my future... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prginocx Posted April 6, 2007 Author Share Posted April 6, 2007 Well the switch seemed OK for a while, but then it started doing it again. Won't crank when warm, always cranks when cold. I replaced the new starter I installed from Auto zone and now I'm going to wait a while and make sure if the problem is fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Extreme90path Posted April 6, 2007 Share Posted April 6, 2007 (edited) Did you check your fuseable link right off the battery. On mine, the plug right after the fuseable link likes to work it self loose somtimes, and it will look like it's making contact, but it's not. So I would check the plugs right after the fuseable links next to the batt. Edited April 6, 2007 by Extreme90path Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now