89_trailboss Posted February 4, 2007 Share Posted February 4, 2007 sick and tired of this chit front end. doing some snow wheeling today(nothing hard by far). fullsize dodge gets stuck so I try and pull him out. yank a few times and then all of a sudden im done. can even move him and im now in 12" of snow and having a hell of a time gettin out my self. WFT. take a look and find that I snapped all the studds holding my CV onto my axle(passanger side)! so what are my options? to tell you the truth im tempeted to weld the CV to the axle, and/or finaly weld my front diff. just gona do this for the winter untill its warm and then ill figure out somthing a little more permenant. this is unless you guys have a better idea? post up what you think about this in general, or better yet if you have an idea. was a good time tho. showin the jeeps how its done. the only problem is I get to cocky and try doing things that the other wont and end up breaking chit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pavelow Leaks Posted February 4, 2007 Share Posted February 4, 2007 SAS it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89_trailboss Posted February 4, 2007 Author Share Posted February 4, 2007 V8 SAS and 38's are going on my other path. need this one to have 4x4 for the winter so I can still wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted February 4, 2007 Share Posted February 4, 2007 Replace the studs It's not a common problem so doing that should solve the issue for a long time to come. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89_trailboss Posted February 4, 2007 Author Share Posted February 4, 2007 ya, I would but how am I going to get them out? cant fit a drill in there and thier snapped flush off. I talking about the 6 bolts that hold the CV onto the front diff incase anyone was wondering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrailChaser Posted February 5, 2007 Share Posted February 5, 2007 You can get a flex shaft for a dremel and drill a small hole in each stud then use a bolt extractor with a wrench. You might even try heating up the area around the stud with a small propane torch right before extracting each one. It would be a pain in the ass, but not too bad. If you need the bolts(used 12point ones) let me know. I'll ship them to you at the cost of shipping. I need to take the other CV off the parts pathy in the garage anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbecktold Posted February 5, 2007 Share Posted February 5, 2007 Swap on all the IFS parts from the Pathy getting the solid axle stuff. That, or finish one sas and start on the 89, nothing wrong with having two sas nissans... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TyzToyz Posted February 5, 2007 Share Posted February 5, 2007 Were you trying to pull the truck out in reverse (strap hooked to your front)? If so, this is most defenitely why it broke. If at all possible, you should always hook to the rear and do your tuggin' forward. I wheeled the piss out of my 86 Toy (IFS) for 6 years on 34" swampers. I never had any problems with my front diff. Tye Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted February 5, 2007 Share Posted February 5, 2007 Were you trying to pull the truck out in reverse (strap hooked to your front)?If so, this is most defenitely why it broke. That makes no sense whatsoever to me, but if you say so... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerranoNZ Posted February 5, 2007 Share Posted February 5, 2007 That makes no sense whatsoever to me, but if you say so... On theat note when I snatch towed out my friend in his Surf I hooked on to the front of my truck. Was this wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89_trailboss Posted February 5, 2007 Author Share Posted February 5, 2007 I was pulling him out forward. I have heard this rumor and have always tried to pull out forward. with that said, I break more stuff pulling forwards then I do in reverse. but like I said, 75% of the time im pulling forward so theres alot more times for somting to break. cant use the stuff off the 88 cause its 4.3. im 4.6. once I get my other truck SAS'd and squezee the V8 in I may think about sas'n this one. found my 90* drill so I think im going to drill the studs out and replace with bolts/nuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted February 5, 2007 Share Posted February 5, 2007 I suppose pulling backward may put more strain and downward pressure on the front end, making it possible to break things more easily, but it's not a common problem at all. I've pulled numerous people out in reverse with no problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted February 5, 2007 Share Posted February 5, 2007 I suppose pulling backward may put more strain and downward pressure on the front end, making it possible to break things more easily, but it's not a common problem at all. I've pulled numerous people out in reverse with no problems. Same here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmorgan4 Posted February 5, 2007 Share Posted February 5, 2007 Maybe I'm just not understanding, but why not replace that side of the axle with a new shaft? I've got parts if you want them, but it sounds like you have spare parts anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted February 5, 2007 Share Posted February 5, 2007 Doing what you did should not have caused this failure. I suspect the bolts had been over-torqued during installation at some time. That is the #1 cause for failure. Had that axle ever been replaced? If so, the mechanic who did it was more likely the root cause, not the design. Can you get in there with a Dremel and a cut off wheel? After letting them soak in PB blaster for at least a day, cut a slot across the top of each stud, fit in a regular screwdriver, give it a couple taps to dislodge any corrosion, and back them out. And when you put in the new bolts, make sure to torque to factory specs and not a lb-ft over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89_trailboss Posted February 6, 2007 Author Share Posted February 6, 2007 CV's have been replaced many many times. never had this problem. I very well could have over tourqed them. im also sure that the bolts were original so that will also help. ill have to take a look at it this weekend. cant fit in my garage and its -52* right now and its supposed to keep up like this for a week. need this thing done for sunday's trip. I didnt think about trying a screw driver. if I can fit somthing in there ill do that. ill hit it with the torch first. took a look today and it apears 2 of the bolts had fallen out earlier. so that doesnt help. thanks for the ideas guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twotirefryer Posted February 6, 2007 Share Posted February 6, 2007 hook onto a edge of the sheared off bolt with a small screwdriver and try to turn it out. you might be suprised. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted February 6, 2007 Share Posted February 6, 2007 -52? :o mid 60's here..... I am so spoiled! We spent the weekend changing a timing belt and repairing broken exhaust studs - in short sleeves! Our biggest problem was avoiding sun burns.... 2 bolts were missing? Sounds like you ID'd the root cause! If you hadn't lock-tited the bolts, I wager the broken bolts will back out very easily. Could be a 20 minute job! Install all new bolts, torque to the proper values, and I'll bet you a CV joint you never have a problem again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now