Too much draw on the Alternator

[Jdpathy]

Well I put a lot of lights on and now sometimes when I have them all on the alternator belt screams at me can I just tighten the belt or what, and how do I tighten the belt?

[mws]

You can tighten the belt, but use care as the tighter you go, the higher the stress on the bearings. There is a simple to use adjustor bolt on the alternator. Take a look at it and you should be able to figure it out.

 

Check the belt itself. If it is "glazed" of if you haven't replaced it in a couple years or more, replace. Once it gets that shiny glaze it just slips way too easy.

 

Belt conditioner is a another approach. I prefer using it rather than overtightening on belts that are over a year old and not glazed

[Jdpathy]

Somebody told me I should put a dual battery setup in, 88 I know you have done that. Was it difficult? What was required?

[offroad95pathy]

Putting in multiple batteries is a bandaid fix, the only thing that provides is a greater/longer reserve as a power source. Non deep cycle batteries will not last long if they are continuously runned down and charged back up, the plates decay, deep cycles can handle that type of use. The solution is a higher output alternator, period. If you are drawing more than the alternator puts out, you will still draw the batteries down, it'll just take slightly longer. I run a CS-144 200A dual rectifier, but that's because I am supplying power to the truck, and 2600W sound system, plus a few lights, this gives me plenty of reserve to add more lights later on without even putting a strain on the alternator. If you keep going like you are, you will eventually toast that alternator. The simplest and cheapest solution is go to the bone-yard and get a Quest alternator (drops right in) which puts out around 110A which will most likely take care of your situation.

[NismoSkyZ]

Here is what Xplor4 said to me about dual batteries:

 

The blue and yellow are chemically identical. The only reasons I bought the blue top are because the terminal layout on the bluetop meets my needs better and it was available for a great price at Costco.

 

The reason why I have the second battery is because I have a lots of electrical accessories (inverter, lights, and other electronics) and a 12-volt Waeco freezer/fridge which I frequently use when camping in remote locations, and on occasion I have drained my Optima enough that it won't start the engine.

 

For wiring the second battery, I used a Hellroaring BIC-95300A battery isolator that's mounted just beneath the fuse box behind the battery. Hellroaring provides detailed instructions on how to wire the second battery.

 

Finally, the reason why I selected the Odyssey battery as my second battery is because it was the only one that would fit in my engine compartment without having to relocate other parts. When my custom rear bumper is finished, it will open up space where the spare tire used to be, and I may install a second Optima there, replacing the Odyssey battery.

 

Hope this helps!

[offroad95pathy]

Hey Nismo, why would you want to replace the Odyssey, I thought those are pretty good batteries? I was thinking about replacing my yellow top in the engine compartment with one of those because they take up less space.

[RedPath88]

The simplest and cheapest solution is go to the bone-yard and get a Quest alternator (drops right in) which puts out around 110A which will most likely take care of your situation.

Do you know something that we do not? A couple of us here have done the Quest Alt swap... we have used a couple different approches, but afaik it has not been a simple "drop in" conversion for anyone. Not hard, but not an unbolt the old, simply bolt the new in.

[offroad95pathy]

Pardon me for using the wrong terminology, I didn't say bolt-on either,it certainly isn't a major rework nor does it require any significant fabrication. My CS-144 took the total of 2.5 hrs, that included cutting a piece 1/2" threaded rod and removing a small portion of the lower front corner of the engine mount bracket for clearance of the 0 AWG positive lug/cable. That to me was a drop-in project, didn't have to get the gas-axe out, or the welder, didn't have to machine anything, was all done with hand tools, a minor effort IMO. There are far more challenging and time consuming projects that one could take on than that. The point I was trying to make was that it wasn't a major effort.

[RedPath88]

Relax, I never said it was hard and I quoted your "drops right in" statement... I said "bolt in".

I was just trying to find out if you had found a way to do so or to help clarify it to those who don't know... if you had not found a direct fit method

Edited January 15, 2007 by RedPath88

[Jdpathy]

Thanks, I think that I have a bearing going somewhere because I am hearing a high pitched squeal on startup. From what you guys say I think that I will get a stronger alternator first.

 

 

Edit: Is the Quest alternator better or what and is there alternators that fit without any adjustments?

Edited January 19, 2007 by Jdpathy

[88pathoffroad]

A 90 amp 240SX alternator is a bolt-in, I believe.

[offroad95pathy]

The 240SX ALT has 2 versions: 80A no fog lights & 90A is used with fog lights, You may also have to swap pulleys, the 240's I've seen use serpentine belts. I have a series of pics in photobucket of the CS-144 install I did if anyone's interested.

 

http://s130.photobucket.com/albums/p274/IG...95PathfinderXe/

 

The Quest ALT just puts out more amps, I think 110A, than the 240SX ALTs. I don't know of any ALTs that would fit without any adjustments at all, the 240SX would be the simplest, but you may have to do some tweaking at the pivot mount bracket with the spacing of the mounting ears on the 240SX ALT, maybe not???

Edited January 21, 2007 by offroad95pathy

[SaKaNa]

My 97 squeals when I start it when its cold, and if its cold and I blast the heat at high + use hi-beams, radar detector, CB radio, laptop on power inverter, and stereo, I get a squeeling noise steadily, but once everythings warmed up it seems to go away...

[offroad95pathy]

As mentioned, the first thing to check, is the Alt belt and the tension on it. If the belt is glazed/shiny- not good, replace it, if it's too loose, tighten it up, but be careful, adding additional tension on a worn belt is a bad idea, puts excess stress on the ALT bearings and will eventually break the belt. I use a rule I saw somewhere: find the longest span between 2 pulleys, determine the mid-point, depress 1/2" applying approx 10lbs force, more or less force to depress 1/2" is too tight or too loose. After the belt and tension is eliminated, next possibility would be ALT bearings. Electrically it's not a good idea to have a lot "Load" items on when you fire up your truck. Personally, I shut down everything before I turn it off. Especially when it's cold, I let it run a few minutes until I see the temp start to rise before I start turning things on.

[barthel]

Any idea on what model years to use for the 240 ALT's?

 

I have an 88 and the alt is pretty pathetic. I would love to change it out to a higher output model with a ton of fuss.

[NismoSkyZ]

Hey Nismo, why would you want to replace the Odyssey, I thought those are pretty good batteries? I was thinking about replacing my yellow top in the engine compartment with one of those because they take up less space.

Sorry for the delay. I quoted what xplor4 said. He said that he put the Odyssey up front so it could squeeze in with the Ultima. He plans later on mounting a battery in the back. With the added space, he has no need for the smaller Odyssey battery, so instead he is dualing with another Ultima.

[offroad95pathy]

Alright, that makes sense. Thanks!

[offroad95pathy]

I know 95% sure that any 240SX from 1995-1998 will work, but you will in most all cases have to swap pulleys minimum and possibly shim/washers to get it to line up correctly, and there are either 80A or 90A versions.

Hope this helps some.