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94 Pathfinder - general maintenance questions


Grumpy
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I bought a 94 Pathfinder for my 19 year old daughter here in CT, as she is going to spend the Summer working in SC, and will take this car with her. She will be a long way from home, so I want to go through the vehicle before she leaves in mid May, and so I have some questions. This vehicle has the 3.0 engine, with an automatic tranny. I am going to change all the fluids, filters, and various wear items before she goes. According to Carfax, the timing belt was done at 63,000 miles, and the vehicle now apparently has 71,000 miles on it.

 

Here is some basic info on this vehicle from Carfax--

 

Year/Make/Model: 1994 Nissan Pathfinder LE/SE/XE

 

Body Style: 4 DR. WAGON/SPORT UTILITY

Engine: 3.0L V6 EFI SOHC

Fuel: GASOLINE

Driveling: 4 WHEEL DRIVE

Manufactured in: JAPAN

Safety Equipment: Rear Wheel ABS, Active (manual) belts

 

Standard Equipment: Power Windows Optional, Power Steering, Air Conditioning Optional, AM / FM Cassette, Power Brakes, Tilt Wheel

 

 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I have no prior knowledge of Pathfinders, and this vehicle has no owner's manual

 

My questions are:

 

 

Tranny fluid - Some vehicles are very fussy about using OEM automatic tranny fluid - Is the 94 Pathfinder OK with non-OEM fluid, and if yes, what spec does it require, and what is the quantity needed when I change the fluid and filter? I'm OK with buying OEM fluid & filter if required. We have a Nissan dealer in the neighborhood.

 

Transfer case - what oil spec is required, and how much?

 

Rear end - what oil spec, and how much?

 

I will likely go with Mobil products for the rear end and transfer case, as I have a barrel of Mobil Synthetic transmission / rear end oil for my trucks in our garage.

 

Coolant - is this Pathfinder fussy about OEM coolant? Some vehicles are, due to specific additive packages. What is the coolant capacity, as I want to flush the cooling system and install a new thermostat & gasket.

 

I am of a mind that aftermarket name brand parts are OK for the belts, hoses, plugs, PCV, fuel filter, air cleaner, and so on. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Please let me know what else I can do to put her in a reliable vehicle.

 

Thanks

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whoa lots a questions.......

 

na just kidding, its early in the morning here

 

here goes

 

auto trans fluid: as i have a manual im not sure but from what i seen here i think non oem fluid is ok, some one will get sthe specs.... 88, someone. the filter is a bother to get to and its only a fine gauze rather than a filter. do a search in here on auto trannys and you will get the picture

 

transfer case: medium duty gear oil will be ok, just drain what ever is in there now and fill with new stuff

 

rear end: do you have an lsd. if not use the same oil as in the t case other wise use lsd oil

 

new thermostat & gaket = good move. our years of paths are not fussy (generally speaking) completely drain the system and fill with good quality coolant. my system takes about 4 litres, no idea what that is in quarts

 

aftermarket service stuff is ok, the only thing ive found is that the Nissan belts have more of a groove and therefore fit better. with aftermarket belts if its very cold and i tromp it on start up i will get the 'loose fan belt' screech for a few seconds.

 

the other things you can check are the control arm bushings and also the exhaust manifold, check the FAQ section for further info

 

hope this helps

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The first thing I did to my 94 was to check the whole front end out. That seems to problem area especially if the PO drove the heck out of it. Allthough if they did good maintenence then it should be kool. Definately put in grease fittings in all components that are designed to have them (about 10) and greas'em up.

 

It does make me wonder why the timing belt was done at 63k. in my owners manual they call for 110k. the pre 90s were at 60k though.

 

you didn't mention plugs/wires etc... but that's something i'd check for sure too. they probably were done at timing belt but who knows.

 

I have had no probs using after market parts/fluids on my 89 but not that familiar with the my 94 yet.

 

good luck, you bought your daughter one heck of a good vehicle. :clap:

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Guest 95PathDN

About changing the tranny fluid, its a pain. You have to remove the transfer case crossmember (which isn't too big of a deal.) But the real kicker is the exhaust pipe prevents you from completely removing the drain pan. So you can't drain every drop of fluid and you can't get a new filter/gasket in if you can't remove the whole pan. I know I had this problem and I believe a couple others have had the same experience. By the way, if you can't get the crossmember nuts to bust, don't try breaking them apart with a screwdriver--they are hardened steel. Let me just say, it took two days to change the tranny fluid. ;)

 

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=941&hl=

 

 

 

just my .02 of experience!!!

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Jiffy Lube can do a tranny flush for you if you're worried about it. 15 quarts should get all the sediment out, don't you think? :D That's what I had done. I attempted a pan drop myself as well, deemed it excessively problematic, put it back together and left it alone. My auto tranny is at 140K and still running fine with dual external coolers. I highly suggest adding a aftermarket external transmission cooler and completely bypassing the stock one inside the radiator. The stock one eventually clogs up and kills the tranny via low fluid flow, which overheats it. Standard Dexron II/III is the proper fluid to use. Incidentally, Dexron is also used for the power steering fluid. 16 pints is what the book says for the auto tranny. That would be 8 quarts or two gallons. :)

 

Standard antifreeze is fine to use. Should take 10.5 quarts. The thermostat is a real pain to get to, it's in the center of the engine behind all the belts in front. I think the lowest temp thermostat you can get is a 180. It's NOT a standard style thermostat.

 

Spark plugs are a PITA to change, but if she's going to be far away from home, it might be good insurance to change those out while you can.

 

Front and rear diffs use standard GL-5 80W-90. If the rear diff is a LSD, use gear oil with LSD additive, or find a small bottle of additive to go with the standard fluid.

When changing diff fluids, unscrew the FILL plug first. That way you can be sure you'll be able to refill the diff, just in case the fill plug is seized or something.

The H233B rear axle should hold 5.6 quarts, the R200A front should hold 3.1. Just fill the diff until fluid comes back out the fill plug hole and put the plug back in. Be sure to clean off the rear diff drain plug, it's got a magnet.

 

Transfer case uses GL-4 75W-90 or 80W-90. Takes about 4.6 quarts. Same fill procedure as the diffs.

 

Hope that helps. :)

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Many thanks to all for the good info. One of my issues is a lack of time to get this vehicle ready, as I will be away in Vegas next week for a convention (I know that's a rough task, but someone has to go :lol: ) I could use some tips on where to get an appropriate sized and priced transmission cooler, and some suggested mounting locations and techniques to save me some time.

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You should be fine with the stock cooler. I have 130K on mine now with no issues. If you daughter is going to be moving to the desert or doing a lot of off-road or towing then I would add a cooler upgrade. For the carolinas, I don't think it'll be a problem.

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If you add a tranny cooler, most people by pass the stock one instead of running it in parallel as the reason stated by 88pathoffroad. For mounting, a popular spot is in front of the rad off on one side, or depending on the cooler size, in between the ac condensor and rad, or just about anywhere where it will get good air circulation.

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one thing to keep in mind about the coolant.

 

When or if you change your coolant, when refilling you must run the engine until the thermostat opens up. If you don't, your engine will have air pockets in it and when it does open up your radiator will go empty, or close to, and your engine will over heat. I've experienced this a couple of times when i changed my water pump (twice) and radiator... its pretty simple

 

fill up the radiator, leave the cap off. start the engine let it run until the radiator level goes down and continue adding coolant until its full be sure to keep an eye on the temp guage.

 

anybody else encountered this?

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Guest 95PathDN

Hey 88,

About 8 quarts in the tranny??? The guy at Kragen told me put in 4, but I shouldn't need anymore than 5 quarts! No wonder the fluid level was reading low......

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You should be fine with the stock cooler. I have 130K on mine now with no issues... For the carolinas, I don't think it'll be a problem.

what 88 said, and carolinas are very hot so get one if you have the time. New tranny $3k+.

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I've seen the cooler issue in so many forums that I just might do the cooler for good luck. I worry about most auto trannies in modern vehicles. The 200,000 mile automatic trannies of my youth are perhaps mostly extinct. For $30 or $50 bucks, it can't hurt.

 

I could use a link to a good source of transmission coolers appropriate for this 94 Pathfinder. Complete kits with mounting parts would be great too, as my time is short to get this vehicle ready to go. For some reason, I didn't have much luck with Google, and our local parts stores are highway robbers. For example, I was looking for some simple non contoured mud flaps for my daughter's Jetta - the local guys want $15 a pair for simple flat plastic mud flaps. :blink: We have no Pep Boys or similar chains around here, so I likely would be looking for a mail order cooler if possible.

 

Thanks.

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try 4x4parts.com, they may have them. not sure though. I haven't dealt with them yet. I am having problems finding parts around here. I just hate to go to the stealer though... I've been out of the Nissan loop for too long. lol

One of these other guys should be able to steer you in the right dir...but try the above and see.

 

good luck

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somethingcool: Mine specifically says GL-4, man. Better check on that one...

 

About 8 quarts in the tranny??? The guy at Kragen told me put in 4, but I shouldn't need anymore than 5 quarts! No wonder the fluid level was reading low......

For the auto tranny, yes. Manual should take about 4 quarts, by the book.

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one thing to keep in mind about the coolant.

 

When or if you change your coolant, when refilling you must run the engine until the thermostat opens up. If you don't, your engine will have air pockets in it and when it does open up your radiator will go empty, or close to, and your engine will over heat. I've experienced this a couple of times when i changed my water pump (twice) and radiator... its pretty simple

 

fill up the radiator, leave the cap off. start the engine let it run until the radiator level goes down and continue adding coolant until its full be sure to keep an eye on the temp guage.

 

anybody else encountered this?

definetely, you must get the thermostat to open, then you add more coolant

 

very good point :takebow:

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I could use a link to a good source of transmission coolers appropriate for this 94 Pathfinder. Complete kits with mounting parts would be great too, as my time is short to get this vehicle ready to go.

here you go, from 88

 

linky

 

 

prettty simple mod

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  • 2 weeks later...

It occurs to me that an issue with this 94 Pathfinder is a lack of airflow to the front & bottom of the stock radiator/tranny cooler due to the belly pan. I am going to install an aftermarket tranny cooler just for good luck, figuring that if this tranny may have 1/2 or 1/3 of it's useful life left, perhaps I can stabilize it near that point to extend it's life a little. The junkyard cooler sounds like the best way to go, but I was feeling lazy, & found a decent cooler & install kit for $40 from Pep Boys. I am also going to drill out the top front of the skid pan to allow a little more air to find it's way to the front of the engine and to the bottom of the radiator.

 

 

A link to the $40 tranny cooler kit --

 

http://www.7453217467431.com/products/prod...D=1084711737875

 

It appears to be a decent 4 pass tube type cooler, and came with everything needed for installation.

 

 

 

More choices

 

http://www.7453217467431.com/search/search...fID&affID=39901

 

 

A tip about hose clamps -- after vehicle warms up & the hoses soften a bit, re-tighten the clamps a little bit more. Two clamps are always better than one, if the install is in a hard to reach area. I see hose clamps fail frequently, when the section of "thread" in the band becomes distorted from age & corrosion.

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My auto tranny is at 140K and still running fine with dual external coolers. I highly suggest adding a aftermarket external transmission cooler and completely bypassing the stock one inside the radiator. The stock one eventually clogs up and kills the tranny via low fluid flow, which overheats it. Standard Dexron II/III is the proper fluid to use.

I can't emphesize how important that is. Even if she doesn't plan on towing anything, you should get this done.

 

If you look through the archives here, you will notice quite a few ("I have no reverse?", or "do I need a new tranny?"). So even if you didn't do anything, DO THIS.

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This looks like a good deal. I have not given this much thought myself and have never installed one of these. Is it hard to do and where are you going to put it? Do you have to make any major mods to put it in ? :shrug:

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I stuck mine inbetween the radiator and the AC condenser. I had the radiator out at the time, so it was pretty easy to stick them in there. Running the hoses is simple, mounting the cooler is simple, and putting it back together is simple. I'd say go for it if you have any mechanical experience. If not, then at least have a friend that knows how help you.

 

coolers1.jpg

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I finished a tranny cooler install yesterday. I put it out in front of the AC heat exchanger, mainly for ease of install. There are two apparent negatives to this location -- the physical vulnerability of the tranny cooler being out front, and also the possibility of excess Winter cooling, which might be a bit hard on the pump. In between the AC exchanger and the radiator would be, imo, the optimum location, but I will settle for 2nd best for now. I left the original tubing on the factory cooler, crimped off and tied up from chafing, just in case we have to revert to the factory cooler in a hurry due to stone damage or whatever on the new cooler, or whatever. (hmm-maybe I'll put a section of hardware cloth over the cooler just for good luck) We also did the Jiffy Lube tranny fluid exchange yesterday. To the best of my knowledge, it went well, and the vehicle arrived back at my house with exactly the correct fluid level. Life is good. Today we get what is known as a four wheel alignment, and change the front & rear diff & the transfer case oils. Last week saw the coolant flushed and replaced, new ball joints and a left front axle, new plugs, new engine oil & filter, new PCV, new vacuum hoses, a new air filter, & new Goodyears all around. That should about do it for the new to us used vehicle 1,000 mile trip prep. The best I can tell, all else is good for now. My 19 year old is very good about taking care of things, and I am sending her with a car maintenance survival kit, but I ordered some of those Accu-Pressure (http://www.accu-pressure.com) tire valve cap indicator deals for her new tires, just for the heck of it. I've never tried them before - who knows, maybe they actually work? ;)

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