zack1978 Posted December 17, 2006 Share Posted December 17, 2006 Hi everyone, When I had my 1995 SE-V6 at the 4wd shop for the frame repair, I asked him to do a wheel alignment. He told me that he could not do it because the bearings are "loose". He told me that they need to be repacked and checked, to the tune of about $300.00. What does the shop mean? My truck has 170,000 miles on it, and the bearings have never been touched. Any ideas as to what direction that I should go? Thanks, Zack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IpathyXe Posted December 17, 2006 Share Posted December 17, 2006 your bearings need to be repacked but should not cost much money if you have some stands and bearing grease you could do this at home. very easey and simple procedure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted December 17, 2006 Share Posted December 17, 2006 Aside from needing a tool to torque and sometimes loosen the wheel bearing locknuts, sure, it's an easy job. A Chilton's should have all the info you need in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted December 17, 2006 Share Posted December 17, 2006 yep...$300 would be a reasonable price for the time it will take...you could do it in an afternoon or so with the correct tools as 88 stated...theres somewhere on here about making the spindle locknut tool...it involves the dremil or a bench grinder (or could be done with a saw and a file but that would be tough)... i would possibly do rotors and pads if they are questionable while your in there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bio93 Posted December 17, 2006 Share Posted December 17, 2006 I had to replace my front rotors so while i was in there i repacked the bearings as well. I had to fabricate a tool for the lock nut, but other than that time, it was about an hours worth of work to do both sides. Torches might be necessary for the removal of the caliper mounting bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nissandoms47 Posted December 17, 2006 Share Posted December 17, 2006 Torches might be necessary for the removal of the caliper mounting bolts. Or the inner bearing, heh mine was stuck to the spindle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezzy Posted December 17, 2006 Share Posted December 17, 2006 I agree with the majority here, its not that bad a job to do yourself. Save your money! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted December 17, 2006 Share Posted December 17, 2006 yeah, make sure to get new innner and outer seals. new bearings aren't really that much so may want to just get those too. at 170k mi it may not be a bad idea. check everything while you're there. boots on the CVs, calipers, TREs, Bjs... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grie78 Posted December 18, 2006 Share Posted December 18, 2006 When I replaced the front rotors, I changed the bearings and seals as well. the big problem I ran into was, the new inner bearing I bought from Carquest didn't fit. I checked all the numbers on the new bearing, and compared them with the old, but they matched. after spending about $80 at a Nissan dealer for the same bearing (to make sure I had the right one), I found out from reading other posts, that Carquest isn't the only company to have the wrong size. I think Autozone and Napa were on that list as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zack1978 Posted February 19, 2007 Author Share Posted February 19, 2007 Can someone give me a rundown of what parts are needed for a total bearing/seal replacement on the front. HOw many of each part per side, and everything else that I would need to do the job once. What should I expect to pay for all the parts? Thanks, Zack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fondo Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 I have never used the "special tool" for the lock nut, just two screwdrivers (or something of that type), worked fine for me. (1)Make sure to tighten the nut well the first time around (pre-load the bearing). (2)Then loosen nut. (3)Tighten so it is snug and your done. (laymans) if you will. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 I have never used the "special tool" for the lock nut, just two screwdrivers (or something of that type), worked fine for me. (1)Make sure to tighten the nut well the first time around (pre-load the bearing). (2)Then loosen nut. (3)Tighten so it is snug and your done. (laymans) if you will. somewhere on here and i know over at 4x4parts.com i have instructions on how to make 1 from a 1/2 ton pickup 4 prong... it makes life so much easier... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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