5x7s I bought dont fit in the front doors!

[BLouisGod]

The basket on the 5x7s i got dont fit in the front door so there are going to the rear deck. what size would fit the fronts, other than the 5x7s? ive heard some nissan trucks are using 5.25s. thanks!

[headpeace]

I thought they were 4x6's if I remember correctly

[BLouisGod]

thanks, i need to measure them, but i was wondering if anyone had any success with any other sizes besides the stockers.

[~Ben~]

5x7 worked just fine for me, both rear and front. Had to kinda force the rear ones but I got it in.

[glenn]

I have 6.5" round speakers in front; needed a special bracket though

[93xe]

speaker size is usually determined by the grille on the door panel...if there is a rectangular rounded grille its probably a 5x7", the factory speaker is slightly smaller than most aftermarket 5x7s but you can make them fit by bending the extra tabs on the speaker and grinding off some of the material on the plastic adapter. If there is a round grille its a 6.5", but if there is a round grille but an oval speaker on a plastic adapter underneath, you just take off the whole speaker and adapter and a 6.5" fits right in (4x6 speakers suck). hope this helps

[Guest SuperSon]

its 4x6. You dont necessarily have to hack up yur speakers factory location to get a good quality sound in there.You can get a good quality 4X6 and it will sound just as good as a bigger speaker. I run mb quart 2 way (dkd 146) on all factory loc on mine and it sounds awesome.

Edited November 22, 2006 by SuperSon

[BLouisGod]

Im going to set the fronts on a crossover for mid/high so the bass wont cause distortion. It looks like ill be taking a look at 6.5s or 4x6s...id rather use 6.5s though :-)

[GAC]

I cut out the gill on the door and put 6.5 alpine component speakers on mine. On the back I used 6x9, although I had to do a little trimming.

Edited November 23, 2006 by GAC

[Guest SuperSon]

I cut out the gill on the door and put 6.5 alpine component speakers on mine. On the back I used 6x9, although I had to do a little trimming.

 

Its useless using 6X9 in the rears coz its firing down towards the floor anyway and whre does it reflects towards to? The back seat so your not really going to be able to tell if you have a 6X9 or a 4X6 in there. bigger is not necessarily better especially if theres not much room in the back for airspace for the 6X9. Same principal applies to subs, You can get an 18 in the box just to say you have an 18 but if you dont have enough airspace that thing is going to sound like crap.

 

BLouis Dont waste your money on a xover or caps. If youre running 2way in there the highs already have a built in caps in the back if you look at it plus the distance between the mid and high isnt greater than a foot apart so no need for a cap or coil.If your running an amp you can turn the gains down for the front or if youre running the factory amp that little dinky amp isnt pushing enough power to distort the front speaker

 

Edited November 23, 2006 by SuperSon

[jason]

The fact is you already have the 5 x 7's in your possesion. I made the same mistake when I replaced my fronts, and I really did not want to take them back. I ended up carving out the stock plastic speaker mount bracket using a dremel. It was very simple and the whole project turned out very nicely. The air space theory does not apply to mid-range speakers mounted in a door or ceiling, and by the way, it seems obvious that 6x9's are better than 5x7's (of the same brand/model,etc.) no matter which direction they are facing. If you can mount them efficiently, go for it.

Edited December 1, 2006 by jason

[Guest SuperSon]

Do you seriously think that mid range speakers dont need any air space? Do your research first and besides I was refering to the 6X9 not having any air space in that little hole up top. No doubt that it can be mounted in there but why even hack up that factory location. I for one dont believe in mickey mouse install.

 

[jason]

First of all, mid range speakers do need air space, but the proper spec's for air space for a mid-range speaker can only be obtained by building a box to the spec's of said mid-range speaker. There IS air space in doors and in the ceiling that is NOT isolated and NOT designed to a certain specification (i.e. stock speaker air space spec's). Do your READING before getting defensive. Secondly, if you would have actually read my previous post, I specifically stated that if you can mount the speakers EFFICIENTLY, go for it. EVERY car audio shop uses dremels to do modifications, if you are retarded and can't operate a dremel than you don't need to be messing with your speakers anyway, or in your words "Mickey Mousing" your installation.

[BLouisGod]

guys, i put the 5x7s in the rear and they sound great from the front - however the tweeter doesnt quite image up the to the front but oh well. im going to wire in some 4x6s next week in the front. i listen to sports talk most of the time anyway so no need for a sub - my car has the system in it

[RI_ChevyGuy85]

guy i've got 6x9's in the doors up front lol, trust me u can make it work. start cutting and you'll be all set. actually thinking about ripping the back doors apart to see if i can squeeze anything in there as well (dunno if it's gonna happen but hey it'll be fun trying lol)

[govols74n]

I put in 4 audiobahn 5x7s off of ebay, and also had sony explode 5x7s before that, they both fit, but I had to bend the brackets on the speakers for the front like the others said....you just have to play with them a little, they'll fit. I think that only 2 or 3 of my screwes lined up but they hold just fine.

[John Boy]

Yep I squeezed some 5x7's in the rear but went with 4x6 in the front. Of course I wished I would of squeezed 5x7 in the front as they sound so much better.

[Guest SuperSon]

First of all, mid range speakers do need air space, but the proper spec's for air space for a mid-range speaker can only be obtained by building a box to the spec's of said mid-range speaker. There IS air space in doors and in the ceiling that is NOT isolated and NOT designed to a certain specification (i.e. stock speaker air space spec's). Do your READING before getting defensive. Secondly, if you would have actually read my previous post, I specifically stated that if you can mount the speakers EFFICIENTLY, go for it. EVERY car audio shop uses dremels to do modifications, if you are retarded and can't operate a dremel than you don't need to be messing with your speakers anyway, or in your words "Mickey Mousing" your installation.

If I were you id lay off on reading those crutchfield magazines.

Youre basically saying that its ok for him to cut up his doors so he can mount a speaker that doesnt fit.He has an option to return it and get the right size.

Those doors are desuigned for a 4X6 and mounting a bigger speaker in that location isnt going to make a difference.

No doubt 6X9 is far better sounding than 4X6 but if youre going to mount it in a spot where 4X6 supposed to be and not having enough air space youre wasting your time and money.

 

 

Lemme tell you something about installers using dremel. Installers uses dremel coz some saleman are trying to make more commission on a certain type of speaker and sells a customer the wrong sizr speaker and begs the installer to make it fit.Dremel is the last tool that a good installer would wanna use.

 

I dont want you thinking that I havent use a dremel before so just look at the pics

 

by the way if youre an INVALID you shouldnt be getting anywhere near a dremel and most certainly giving any advice.

 

Do you research again . Heres a site that might get you more educated better than that crutchfield youre reading and things you hear from your homies.

 

 

http://www.autosound2000.com/

 

[John Boy]

What is the depth on the front speaker anyhow.

[mws]

If your running an amp you can turn the gains down for the front or if youre running the factory amp that little dinky amp isnt pushing enough power to distort the front speaker

 

In the real world, most speakers are blown because the amp doesn't have ENOUGH power.

 

Sounds illogical, but it's true. Distortion is the real killer of most speakers that end up on the junk pile. With too small an amp, most users push it too hard (turn volume wayyyy up) and end up sending terribly distorted sound energy which just overheats and melts down the coil in the motor.

 

I used to do higher end installs, and had many guys come to me with rattling speakers asking me to put in higher rated speakers. I always insisted they invest in a more powerful amp first. In several cases, we put the exact same speaker in with an amp 2x or 3x more powerful and they never had a problem again.

 

I've run over 100 watts of clean music through speakers rated at 50 watts with no problem, but have seen literally dozens of 100 watt rated speakers abused to death by guys cranking little amps at 10.5....

 

True, running 100 watts of distortion through a 50 watt rated speaker will melt it down as well, but most people won't do that as it just hurts too much.

Edited December 9, 2006 by mws

[mws]

Those doors are desuigned for a 4X6 and mounting a bigger speaker in that location isnt going to make a difference.

No doubt 6X9 is far better sounding than 4X6 but if youre going to mount it in a spot where 4X6 supposed to be and not having enough air space youre wasting your time and money.

 

And I have to disagree with this statement. Doors are not sealed enclosures in any way shape or form. Infinite baffle theories should be applied for this application. The volume of the door is relatively irrelevant.

 

Most door speakers installed by automakersare chosen strictly by price and convenience. A well selected larger driver will give better low frequency performance and higher efficiency. You'll be lucky to get decent reproduction of anything below 100 Hz with a 4x6, whereas you can get down to 60 or 70 with a 6.75", which will help add a fullness to the soundstage.

[revgrizzly91]

I'd have to agree with the above compadre. I have 6.5 Lanzars in the doors now, a spacer (made out of 3/4" ply cut to the shape of the factory one to accomidate the driver) and popping out the grill in my 91 with a little trimming to the panel looks awesome when the grill matches up exactly with the factory trim. However, I am in the process of shoehorning an 8" in an enclosure measuring about 1.3 cu ft. It will run the entire lenght of the door andgo right up to the armrest/handle/window-lock assy. There are a whole bunch of complicated angles and clearance issues to sort out, but I'll keep ya posted if thats ok, cuz those 5x7s of yours will disappoint ya. Oh btw, I'm running a cliff design 12" in a 2.5 cu ft vented box with 200w rms with tweets on the dash and folks around here love how it sounds. One across the street neighbour gave his upstairs tennant crap for have his stereo on so loud. It wuz me testing my system,lol. Hope this'll give you some ideas.

[revgrizzly91]

...And here ya go.

[Guest SuperSon]

In the real world, most speakers are blown because the amp doesn't have ENOUGH power.

 

Sounds illogical, but it's true. Distortion is the real killer of most speakers that end up on the junk pile. With too small an amp, most users push it too hard (turn volume wayyyy up) and end up sending terribly distorted sound energy which just overheats and melts down the coil in the motor.

 

I used to do higher end installs, and had many guys come to me with rattling speakers asking me to put in higher rated speakers. I always insisted they invest in a more powerful amp first. In several cases, we put the exact same speaker in with an amp 2x or 3x more powerful and they never had a problem again.

 

I've run over 100 watts of clean music through speakers rated at 50 watts with no problem, but have seen literally dozens of 100 watt rated speakers abused to death by guys cranking little amps at 10.5....

 

True, running 100 watts of distortion through a 50 watt rated speaker will melt it down as well, but most people won't do that as it just hurts too much.

We are not talking high end install here.The guy just wanted to replacce his factory speakers and not re-do his whole system Ive run my factory amp to my 4X6 without any issues. Its just common sense to turn your volume down if the speakers are starting to distort. You can get the best matched amp and speakers and it will have the same effect if you turn it way up to a point where its starting to distort just like you mentioned.

 

What I meant by the little dinky amp not distorting the speakers applies to this.You can get decent sound out of this factory amp without sacrificing sound quality.Of course youre not going to compare the sound quality that you would get out of separates (mid bass-mid range- tweeter) set up with a good quality amp.

 

What im trying to explain in the beginning of this post is why go thru all the hassles of cutting your door just to get the same sound out of a 5X7 from a 4X6. Try sitting inside a pathy with a 4X6 and one with a 5X7or 6.5 and tell me if you can tell the difference. I did on my pathy and my brother in laws pathy which he bought with a 6.5 already installed and to tell you quite frankly I could not tell the difference so why waste your time and money.they are both running off factory amp.

[Guest SuperSon]

And I have to disagree with this statement. Doors are not sealed enclosures in any way shape or form. Infinite baffle theories should be applied for this application. The volume of the door is relatively irrelevant.

 

Most door speakers installed by automakersare chosen strictly by price and convenience. A well selected larger driver will give better low frequency performance and higher efficiency. You'll be lucky to get decent reproduction of anything below 100 Hz with a 4x6, whereas you can get down to 60 or 70 with a 6.75", which will help add a fullness to the soundstage.

Youre disagreeing on the wrong subject here .I was talking about the 6X9's being mounted in the rear where the stock 4X6's are.Again on this install I have mentioned that its a waste of money to install 6X9 in that location because it doesnt have enough air space I hope youre not going to tell me that 6X9's dont need any air space.secondly those 6X9 are just going to be firing down towards the rear trunk area which the carpeting will absorb most of the sound anyway.No doubt youll get sound coming out of it but I guarantee you its probably the worst sound youll ever hear.

Im sure if you have done install before you have come across some 6X9 mounted in those pre fab boxes that you can just throw in the rear deck, compare the sound on those with a 6X9 actually being mounted in the rear deck that utilizes the trunk area as an air space no doubt that the one mounted in the rear deck sounds much better with the sound reflecting off the rear window towards the front.

 

 

Talking about fullness and staging like you have mentioned.How do you expect to get good soundstaging from a door speaker firing towards your left leg? YOU DONT. Just like with the factory front tweeter location which is located on the pillars.

 

I tend to go by ears and not by specs when it comes to high end install.Ive seen thousands of dollars go to waste because of improper speaker placement. It doesnt mean you have the best amp and speakers out there youd expect to take home an IASCA trophy.

I have also mentioned on my other post that bigger is not always better. if you want to get technical then lets talk about speaker placement and not speaker size.