SteeevO Posted October 1, 2006 Share Posted October 1, 2006 As many of you mat know, when i was converting my pathy to 4wd my engine decided to go on me.. really just taping lifters but i swapped it out with another engine. the shop i was at told me that if i were to rebuild the topend there is a better chance of my bottom end going out due to higher compression etc.. ( my engine had 347K mi. on it at the time. so now i have this other engine in my pathy and it's leaking oil from the RMS. so i want to just rebuild my original engine and put it back in. but the debate is whether to do it myself or have a reputable shop do it. what do you guys think?? also my tranny has noises.. sounds like bearings inside are loud..any sugestions? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted October 1, 2006 Share Posted October 1, 2006 For the engine, if you have the time and space then do everything you are capable of doing yourself. And have a shop do that which you are not able to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted October 2, 2006 Share Posted October 2, 2006 IMO... If you can convert a 2wd to a 4wd, you can rebuild an engine... Takes time, patients and $$$$.. Some of the Head work my require a Machine Shop... If you bore it over or even a 3.3 block... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted October 2, 2006 Share Posted October 2, 2006 Have a shop do all the mill work and do the assembly yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted October 2, 2006 Author Share Posted October 2, 2006 i just wish i had someone that has done this before near me .. i just hate for it all to get together and then ....kaboom!! or tap tap tap ...or knock knock knoc.. u get the idea. i've never rebuilt an engine before so i don't really know where to go for what to do and what not to do...but i think i'm gonna give it a whirl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animal Posted October 2, 2006 Share Posted October 2, 2006 If you've never rebuilt an engine before, you should also get someone with experience to inspect all the parts (block, crank, cams, etc.) for wear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted October 3, 2006 Share Posted October 3, 2006 Also depends on how far you are going into a rebuild. Are you gonna overbore, or just rehone the cylinders, rehoning can be done at home. Are you replacing the pistons and rods, or just the rings (also dependant on if you overbore). One major thing you ought to have done is get the crank checked for wear at the bearings and might as well have it rechecked for balance. For the heads; Regrind the valves, get new valve seats and new seals, have the cam checked for wear on the lobes. Replace the valve springs, can probably keep the old retainers though. Something else you could do while it is fully torn down is smooth out any rough casting spots inside the block, but be carefull not to grind any spot too thin and cause a weak spot at a water jacket or oil passage. Tons more little things, all depends on what you want in the end and how far gone it is now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted October 3, 2006 Author Share Posted October 3, 2006 welli want to put in new pistons and rods... is an egine build pretty straight forward? tear it appart.. hone the cylinders, have heads done, have crank balanced, put back together with new parts.. where do i find torque settings? what am i missing? probaly alot.. it's probably not as easy as it sounds Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animal Posted October 3, 2006 Share Posted October 3, 2006 (edited) welli want to put in new pistons and rods... is an egine build pretty straight forward? tear it appart.. hone the cylinders, have heads done, have crank balanced, put back together with new parts.. where do i find torque settings? what am i missing? probaly alot.. it's probably not as easy as it sounds It's not like you need a degree to to it - it's just a machine. But ... it's not hard to F-up, even experts do once in a while. I've know people who had no idea what they were doing before they started do a good job as well as people who do it for a living make a small mistake that required pulling the engine back out and tearing it down to fix. Knowing little tricks and what to look for improves your chances of getting more than a few miles for all your effort. Maybe someone knows of a good book that covers these details. Most of the shop manuals cover torque specs. Any that include engine work should. Edited October 3, 2006 by Animal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted October 3, 2006 Share Posted October 3, 2006 an engine is pretty straight forward if u have mechanical skills...ie can take something apart and put it back together and it work...the biggest thing with our engines is making sure its in time the 1st crank or u could have some issues... i broke a T belt and rebuilt the top end...no machine work no nothing just new valves and seals...she ran for about 25k more until i dropped something in the cylinder and she started knocking...compression check i was still getting 129 psi on each cylinder and she had 225k or maybe a lil more on it... dont hone the cylinders with a hand drill...and take it to a shop that knows what they are doing when they machine it i've seen some jobs done where they didnt sonic test the cylinders 1st ot see if it could be bored and honed and didnt have any break thru until a lil while down the road where the pressure eventually blew out the cylinder wall b/c it was too thin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted October 5, 2006 Author Share Posted October 5, 2006 are all the troque settings in the FSM?? i'm thinking that i am going to do it myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animal Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 The '94 FSM (this is the earliest year available in soft copy) on nissan-techinfo.com does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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