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went wheeling for the first time, lots of Q's


twotirefryer
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i went to larch mountian with some buddies today. first time wheeling in my own rig. i LOVED it. the pathfinder is an impressive rig in stock form. unfortunately, i had to cut the day short after i noticed my steering wheel 20 degrees off and really bad feelings of instability from the front end. i BEAT the rig today. HARD. i bent the @!*% outta my tie rods. my idler arm is hitting the frame, my centerlink is showing some play. my steering is shot. sooooo, i need some new steering stuff. i've read around and the calmini stuff looks nice, but i just noticed the l&p stuff. what disturbs me is that these kits use stock inner/outer tie rod assemblies. they are super weak. any aftermarket approach to this?

which is better, l&p or calmini. money aside. WHY?

 

also, why are both my tie rods bent, as if at full droop there is not enough radial movement in the balljoint of the tie rod? so i need drop steering of some type?

 

are upper control arms(aftermarket) needed? what brand do you prefer?

 

my thoughts on a lift, am i thinking right? your EXPERIENCED input appreciated.

looking for 2" of suspension lift, 2" body lift

 

sway away TB's

possibly upper control arms(aftermarket)

new upper and lower balljoints(moog) so i need spacers for the BJ?

l&p steering stg 3

JGC front coils (4.0)

no sway bars

front and rear energy suspension bushings

 

is that a fairly solid setup? or should i just scratch the IFS and go solid axle? i'd really like to keep the IFS, but not if it does this everytime. 160k is not nice to anything on the front end, but not being able to drive like I want too sucks. it's not like i hit stuff hauling ass, but i do want to climb that dirt mound or that stack of rocks...know what i'm saying?

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The stock TRE's are actually really really strong, the reason they bent was because the center link bent backwards, the L&P kit takes care of the problem. It depends on what you want to use your rig for, 4x4parts.com and calmini make upper control arms, its up to you what you want to spend, if you plan on a lift, UCA's will bring you camber back into spec..

 

Also, the JGC coils will give you some lift, depending on what pathy you have (2 or 4 door, exo tire carrier, etc), again, both companys sell coils for the pathy lift, and again, it depends on what you will be useing the truck for.

Edited by FLApathy
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The steering problems start with the centerlink. It allows torsional (twisting) movement of the tie rods, thereby allowing them to move directions they aren't meant to and bending them. If your idler arm is hitting your frame, you're going to need a new one in short order before your tires are severely worn from bad alignment. The tie rods are OK, it's just the CL's movement allowing them to either hit the frame or move back-and-forth too much that's the problem. Aftermarket UCA's are simply stronger than the stock UCA's by a long way; they allow for alignment when it's lifted as well. I'd stay away from BJ spacers in general, they allow a bit too much suspension travel which destroys the CV axles.

 

On the JGC springs, there are about ten different springs they used in those damn things, so if you're getting them from a junkyard measure them with a caliper to find the wire diameter. .54" is a common size(about 2" lift), .56" is better(3" or so), and .58" will give you 3+" of lift. Stock Pathy springs are .50".

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Unless you are adding a lot of weight and need stiffer suspension, I would recommend keeping the stock TB's and use the money for Rough Country UCA's ($133 if you talk to the right guy and mention NPORA!)

 

I'm from the modern school that says a compliant suspension is better for off roading than a stiff one. So I went with stock TB's, .55" 4.0L springs, and Heckethorn shocks. It works fantastic! Flexes easier and tires stay in contact on rough roads. It was fun watching the guys with stiff suspensions on the washboard roads - beating the heck out of them and they were all over the place as the tires bounced and skipped. I just cruised along in control and relative comfort.

 

And I say 2" + 2" is an excellent choice for anyone running 31's or less. I currently have 2" susp and 3" body, and I'm going to cut down the body spacers to under 2". That will still leave plenty of tire clearance for 31's, yet get the CG back down. 2" suspension lift is easier on CV joints than a 3, and is about the minimum you can do with the RC UCA's (they are slightly longer than stock, so less than 2" lift results in camber challenges).

And a 2" body lift requires less "stretching" and relocating of stuff than a 3".

 

And I concur that you will have to REALLY be beating on it to damage stock TRE's with the L&P. If you're beating that hard, the TRE's will be the least of your worries.

Edited by mws
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awesome, everything i wanted to hear. thanks guys. i think it will go with the l&p stuff. i'm not planning on adding much weight, maybe 200 lbs total so thanks 88pathy for the specs on the coils. there really should be a sticky on this stuff since one can look around forever and not find anything really pertinent.

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And you will like the L&P stuff. I have the stage 3, and it is everything it appears to be.

 

Phil runs this as a small business on the side, so he is not always able to be super prompt on the responses. But he is a great guy and has a great product, so it is well worth it. He will take care of you and provide you with everything you need and more. He frequents these boards under the handle PathfinderPhil

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And you will like the L&P stuff. I have the stage 3, and it is everything it appears to be.

 

Phil runs this as a small business on the side, so he is not always able to be super prompt on the responses. But he is a great guy and has a great product, so it is well worth it. He will take care of you and provide you with everything you need and more. He frequents these boards under the handle PathfinderPhil

well one reason i'm not going with calmini is of they're sub-par customer service. i'm not waiting for 3 months for a steering system. if i had that much time, i could build one myself. i just went out today a bout $600 of front end stuff including the rear springs, so pathfinderphil will be expecting a call from me. got me alternator swap done, and the safari rack built outta electrical conduit tubing, so i will be ready to go :) i can not wait to go four wheelin again. GOD that was fun. hopefully i can use the rig like it needs to be used with the l&p stage 3.

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Not only has he caught the bug, but the bug has dug in and made a permanent home in his heart!  :lol:

 

:aok: fryer (oh and I have still not installed that head lamp I got from you :lol:)

I'm especially giddy because compared to a street car with all the goods, this @!*% is so cheap. i have a galant vr4 that huals ass and it's fun to drive, but it costs lots of money to go fast(tickets). that pathfinder barely gets out of it;s own way, but still shines offroad. all that matters to me is that it performs well at what it's designed for. i demand lots so upgrading is expected. but really, after $1500 of stuff, these things are ready to rock and roll, like seriously. i've been in all kinds of crazy rigs, and besides bogging(haven't done it yet in the pathfinder) these things walk all over most other rigs. i showed a jeep with 35" thornbirds, lockers and some pushrod motor(don't get me started) whats up. suprised me:) he's like "are your locked ?" i said bone friggin stock. only paid $1500 too. haha. whens the next pathfinder meet WAVEY

Edited by twotirefryer
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gainsco99.jpg

 

Somebody say pushrod?

 

 

Oh yeah, Mx, B, and 88 will all have something to say bout that...

 

Nope, can't be bothered, other than what does that have to do with this thread ? Quit whoring... P...

 

B

Edited by Precise1
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That says it all. Thornturds are the worst tire known to man. :laugh:

They can help climbing out of ruts and they look aggressive, but that is about it.

I have known a few people with them, none of them bought another set and all of them hated them.

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