big_johnson

Not to mention the fact that civics are FWD, so putting a spoiler on the trunk would decrease traction if it actually worked. But to answer the original question, my pathy seemed to do better on windy highways after I installed new shocks and struts. The OEM ones are pretty soft (at least on the 96-99, don't know if they changed anything or not for the 99.5+)

Mt. Antero...Buena Vista...sweet I took my pathy up that trail this summer, I love that area. As for the Pathfinder, the rear axle is actually quite strong, better than the axles in the wrangler. However, the IFS on the pathy won't hold up to quite as much. You could put a one or two inch lift (more lifts coming out sometime here), and run 31's or 32's. As for what to look for, the shocks, struts, and bushings may need replacement (or will soon). The exhaust manifolds may leak, but the problem isn't as big as on the 95's and earlier. There's some more potential issues, but I'm sure someone else will chime in

Not to mention the IRS, even though several reports commended it on its offroad capabilities

You do realize those posts are over three years old, right? Stillen no longer makes headers for the VG33E. However, apparently the VG30 uses the same block as the VG33, and the thorley headers will technically fit on the 3.3. However, the cats/etc. will not be the same, and getting street legality would likely be a hassle.

Might want to check out Dynomax also. Myself and a few other R50 guys are running them, I personally think they sound sweet. Probably not as loud/growly as a flowmaster, but has a nice rumble to it when you get on it (not ricey at all, BTW). I also love the sound of my exhaust in low range, it's bada$$

Please don't. They make me want to :oops: or

Check the bottom of the 3rd page in my cardomain site (in my sig). It has a few old pics of my pathy sans brush guard but with the bug guard

Yep It's my first year up here and I love it. Why didn't you go to CU?

I've seen your rig on cardomain and NOR, and it is definitely sick You're from Colorado, right? What area?

These are pretty much like running boards than you can beat the he11 out of. If you like the chrome look or something like that, then these probably wouldn't be the best for you. But if you need something strong, functional, and good looking, then look no further

yep. We'll work with your example, 235/75R15 the first number, 235, is the tire's width in mm. There are 25.4 mm in one inch. So, 235 / 25.4 = 9.25 inches in width. The second number is the aspect ratio (ratio of sidewall height to width). In this case, the sidewall is 75% as tall as the tire is wide. So, 235 x .75 = 176.25 Multiply this by two (since there is a sidewall on either side of the rim). 176.25 x 2 = 352.5 mm total sidewall height Then figure out the rim's diameter in mm. 15 x 25.4 = 381 mm 381 + 352.5 = 733.5 mm is the total tire height 733.5 / 25.4 = 28.88 inches in total tire height

I was thinking about this a while ago. Since the LE WD21's came with discs, it seems to me that it would be a good idea to find one of those H233B axles and swap it in. However, I don't know if the linkages would be the same, and I'm not sure you could get the ABS to work. But, the older axle would also give you a greater selection for lockers if you decide to go that route, also. I haven't done much research into the swap, but it seems like it would be a viable option

Extra wear on the CV joints, this is why most people w/lifts get manual hubs. The taller springs put the CV's at an extreme angle and make them much more prone to tearing/grenading. The struts also top out more frequently, but I haven't heard anyone complain about premature strut failure because of this.

I offroad a fair amount with mine on, but if I had to do it over again, I probably wouldn't get one. I originally wanted one because they looked cool, and I didn't know much about 4wheeling. My main gripe is that it hurts the approach angle a fair amount. Also, like you suggested, it is not strong enough to hold up well to a hit, so it could derfinitely cave in to the hood or front area and cause more damage than would have been caused w/o one. However, I still think it looks cool, and it does actually help protect the headlights from rocks/trees etc. A bulll bar, on the other hand, is meant to withstand hits and not cause damage to the vehicle. They are strong enough to mount a winch on (another thing the brush guard can't do), and also have mounting holes for lights. Like you said though, they are pricey.

I did not have to remove mine, but I beleive that the brush guard shares some of the mounting holes that the tow hooks use.

the LE's have the same bolt pattern as every other Nissan (except for the titan and other brand new ones). It's just a matter of what size the rim is. A 16" will work, a 15" will be too close to the caliper on an 02. Since you have an LE, you have the 17" rims, right? In which case, the pro comps won't fit unless they're made for that rim diameter (I doubt it).

Why don't you like air lockers? Get some of those front and rear, your 4wd system would work much better than the JGC's, and wouldn't have all the electronics to add to the possibility of a system failure

I used mesh like DJ, but with a circular hole cut out that hooks to a flex pipe which runs to the underhood airbox. I have a picture and a description of it somewhere in my cardomain page, the link in my sig

A guy over on AC's board has been working on a design and other possibilities for an R50 sas, but it would be a huge, costly project. We don't have a real "frame" to work with, we just have the unibody and a sort of "subframe" for the front end.

So you're combining the springs with spacers up front? Won't that put the CV's at an extreme angle? I think you'll be OK with 3/4", but I'm not sure about 1 1/2".

Exactly, thats why they will tell you anything

Assuming he has the same hitch as me, just check the link in my sig, then go to page 2. I have a few pics where you can see the hitch

From what I've seen, my hidden hitch doesn't look like the factory Nissan hitches. However, they could have made a different model for Nissan to use as OEM. I thought I read that Draw-tite makes the OEM hitches, but I could also be wrong.

I would guess that to order the kit and somehow import it, the cost would be well over $1200 US. Don't know for sure though. Why not wait for L&P? $995 for the 6", $750 for the 3".

Well its not technically "out" yet, they're still finalizing the product, and have had to deal with some personal issues along the way. Should be out relatively soon, though. Here's the page L&P Performance