big_johnson

I beleive DJ_Dank has his out the side, he's rockin' a Stillen exhaust, I beleive, (which had a Dynomax muffler..?). I had mine piped straight out the back, not really a fan of the side exit (no offense to anyone ), but I haven't noticed any exhaust reentering the car. I'm sure its more of an issue on SUV's like 4runners, where the rear window slides down, but I think the risk is minimal for our pathys

the post muffler is called a resonator (not 'resignator ), and it just cuts down on the exhaust noise. I removed mine when I got my exhaust installed. If you want a performance muffler sound, then keeping the resonator seems counterintuitive, since it will only detract from the sound the new muffler provides. And yes, Magnaflow is another good quality brand, I just forgot to mention it (among others), though I haven't heard one on a pathy.

you can choose from Flowmaster, Dynomax, Gibson, Borla, among others. I have a dynomax on my 3.3, as do several others, and I like the sound of it. I've seen (but not heard) flowmasters on a 3.5, and would assume they sound good. Pretty much any of the above reputable brands will give you a good sounding exhaust, just with slightly different tones. Go to shops and see what they recommend, etc. I bought my muffler online from summitracing.com and had a local shop install it

You can get things which are called wheel adapters, instead of spacers. While wheel spacers are essentially shims on the bolt face, and are unsafe, wheel adapters give you a whole new bolt face. Here is an example from wheeladapter.com

well...it is generally not considered the easiest job out there. You need a hydrolic press to get the poly's in, and they can break if its not done right. I had to call several shops before I found one that would do it, they either didn't have a the right press or didn't want to risk breaking the bushings. Getting the control arm bolts off can be a pain also, many have had to cut them off because they are so stuck on there. Good luck though

I've seen them going for about $40 from online retailers. I got mine in a package deal from 4wheelparts.com, for $50 I got; a 2x20 tow strap, 1 D-ring, 1 D-ring with a receiver mount, hitch pin, tire pressure gauge and carrying case. Definitely a score If they still are selling those, you should check it out. Otherwise though, around $40 is average

I'd say just get a hitch and a hitch receiver D-ring. Thats what I've been using since last spring, and it works well. Easy and quick access to attach a strap, and you know it's the strongest possible recovery point on the vehicle

and there you have it folks

Everybody I've heard of with the JWT pop charger has been satisfied with it. I'm not sure if you'll feel much of a gain on a 3.5 (as they are aready quite ballsy ), but it would definitely help, especially if combined w/ other mods. You may want to find some way to make a heat shield, or obtain cooler air somehow, though

Yeah, JWT (jim wolf tech) is one of the few companies that make cams/intakes for the vg33e's. They are a reputable company with good products, and I wouldn't mind some of their cams. Nismo and AC also sell cams for vg33's, supposedly the nismo's give the most lower end torque

For the 96-99's, all wheels were 15" in diameter. The LE's and XE's were 15x6, and the SE's were 15x7. If you get new wheels (assuming in a 15x8), a backspacing of approximately 4" would be good. Check out some pics on the cardomain site of Vengeful on this board, he has wheels that are 3.75" backspaced.

The reason people get Warn hubs is because the CV's are put at extreme angles with the taller springs. On the road, chances are that you won't be in 4wd much, so although the CV's are spinning, no power is being applied to them. Where you run into problems is in 4wd, in offroad situations. If one front wheel droops, the CV is put an even more extreme angle, and if power is applied, it will likely tear. So, the more you wheel, the sooner you'd want Warn's. However, some people have gone for quite a while, including 4 lots of wheeling, with a lift and w/o Warns. Oh, and BTW, you don't need new wheels w/ a lift

The auto has a higher towing capacity rating, but for 1500lbs, it won't matter. As a matter of fact, I received my 97 SE (5speed) a few months after my 16th, and I think it is a great first car. I'm still drivign it, with no desire for another vehicle till college is over. Not enough power to make you want to race around, but a nice enough car to the point where I take care of it much more than I would if I got a beater

Mine are the same as nick's, and I also got them at pep boys (forgot how much $, but it wasn't too bad)

Definitely sweet looking What kind of rims are those?

Check your owners manual. Mine listed the offset for my wheels, and from that I calculated the offset. Your manuals might list it also) Many Nissan trucks/SUV's have around 5" backspacing (mine turned out to be 5.08 or something close to that)

Don't know about the first question, but as for the wheel bearings, when I went to manual hubs, I replaced and repacked the bearings also. (both inner and outer). As for synthetic oils, a few people have made the switch, but, depending on your mileage, the synthetics have been known to leak when you change from regular oil

Go for a custom exhaust. Find the performance muffler you want, and have a shop bend the pipes and install the system. Much cheaper than the $792 or whatever the Stillen costs, and the performance difference between the two will be negligible.

There are no headers for the R50's, if you want to fix it you'll probably just have to get a stock replacement manifold.

I beleive any model could have LSD, as long as it had the offroad package (I beleive)

I beleive they are 6" wide, but your owners manual should have the info also. 30x9.50 should fit, I'm running 30x10.50 on 7" wide rims, and have seen 31x10.50's mounted on a stock XE

That is exactly what I did for my rears (though only a 35% dark tint was added), and it still kept the original reflective look, just made it harder to see into the car. With the stock 20% reflective tint and the 35% dark tint combined, I have about a 7% tint on the rear windows. Dark enough to conceal most of the interior, but light enough to not cause issues with night driving

I had a previous post when I got my windows tinted with metallic/reflective, and dark behind the rears(to match the stock tint), you may want to check it out to view another option (though my pathy is black, you'll still get the idea). Here ya go: my windows On a white pathy, I would say black tint, but...

A guy on this board, vengeful, has a set of factory SE alloys with BFG's on them, I beleive, and I thought he was looking to sell them. Send him a PM or something

Not to mention the fact that civics are FWD, so putting a spoiler on the trunk would decrease traction if it actually worked. But to answer the original question, my pathy seemed to do better on windy highways after I installed new shocks and struts. The OEM ones are pretty soft (at least on the 96-99, don't know if they changed anything or not for the 99.5+)