Precise1

Sorry, I was talking about the Thorley header Y pipe... B

I'm not talking about manual locking hubs either, I'm talking about the link I posted to a exploded view for the stock hub components from a reliable source. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/37975-98-4x4-wheel-hubs/?p=718963 B

If you weld it, it'll be a problem if you ever need to remove it. I used some Permatex copper RTV and a Walker lap joint band clamp that was a perfect fit. I'll look up the part number tomorrow. And yes, while you might be able to fudge it, 2" diameter is the only CARB legal fitment for your vehicle. B

Did you look at the link? B

No problem! Make sure to grease the splines when you reassemble it. Don't have to fill them, just coat them... B

Ask and ye shall receive! One 1995 supplement service manual complete with electrical diagrams. I love it when things work out like this! Bottom link of the first post. Good luck... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/26616-factory-service-manuals/?p=491370 B

Yep, that is about right by my estimation (many individually numbered sections), it is over an inch thick. Hold on a bit though, a member is going to send me a PDF they have for me to cross reference with. There might be a chance yet. Otherwise, perhaps we could do a 'group' buy and get a digital copy off fleabay and then host it for free for members. I'll get back to you as soon as I know something. B

Yes, you have to remove the locking hub assembly, the snap ring, the locking washer, the bearing nut and the bearings, then it will slide off. Not really that hard, but the hub might need a little persuading at first. I don't like prying, so first I tapped a razor blade into the seam to spread it, then a putty knife, then a chizel and by then it came off. I strongly recommend you download the 1994 FSM from the pinned thread in the Garage section, and look at page FA-16 for the exploded view diagram. It all makes sense and is pretty easy when you see how it goes together. B

Sorry, but AFAIK there is no PDF copy of the suppliment floating around out there, at least not of free. I happen to have a hard copy though and can scan some diagrams if you know what you need. That goes for anyone else as well... B

A brief search showed this http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/32573-buying-a-new-magnaflow-cat/?p=614160 B

I can't recall the exact model #s for the Magnaflow I used, but there were two. One direct bolt in and one universal weld in; I went with the bolt. The info is here for the searching, but the other trick it to look them up. If it doesn't say 'CARB certified', it isn't going to fly and if it says 49 states and/or will not ship to Ca, well, that's not going to fly either. B

Latin, Nunya? Did you hit your head today? How many unicorns am I holding up? B

Does no one up there undercoat and wash? B

No, the heat shields actually mount to the stock manifolds. They are useless and you don't want them anyway... B

I think you are making the mistake that the dash temperature gauge is actually reading acurately. There are two temp sensors, one for the gauge, one for the ECU; which one did you replace? Are you sure it was the right sensor and/or was good? What is the output of the sensor, does it fall into proper range? (assume 1994 FSM values if it is the same part #) Have you checked the coolant temp independently with something like a meat thermometer? If it drives, runs fine, doesn't blow hoses or boil over, how hot is it? B

Keep looking though, you might find more... B

If you have a gun set at or with a maximum torque of the desired lug nut range, or use those torque limiting deals, yeah, that isn't an issue. You also know that some yahoos just throw an impact socket on their 500ft/lb air gun, hammer the crap out of it and say "there, that won't be coming off any time soon!". The lug star I broke was a welded one, but it broke when I had one hand and one foot on it and still didn't loosen the lug nut. That is just too damn tight... B

The recommended interval is every 60k (or 6 years IIRC) for a 1992. Some 93 and all 94-95 have 105k mile intervals. (square toothed VS round toothed) At 95k you are definitely pushing it, it is at almost 160% of recommended duty cycle. If you have no choice, you have no choice, but I would recommend making it a priority! Drive the vehicle as little as possible and drive it gently when you do... B

Agreed, if you have a good feel for it and always use the same tool, torqueing is not absolutely necessary. I used to do it with the factory lug nut wrench and my foot decades ago, but then I noticed a few things: I lost a tire on the freeway (the drum stripped out), newer wheels seem to be more sensitive to overtorquing and I once broke a lug nut star at the side of the road trying to remove lug nuts that a shop installed with an air gun. These days I just go get the Harbor Freight 1/2" drive torque wrench and put them all at 90ft/lbs, rechecking them after the next drive. No problems since... B

Well, honestly, even 2mm is way more than the zero it should have. I highly recommend you snug them up immediately and check to see if they are brinelled already. If they are, plan to change them very soon. If not, you can pull them and re-pack them when you have the chance. As for the crunching, sorry Bud, I'm just not familiar enough with the R50 front end to do anything other than guess. B

Supposed to be 90+ without wind the next few days here, and I'm only about 20 miles from the Pacific. Y'all ain't alone neither! B

Good deal. I know, isn't that awesome!! Nothing wrong with a built rig, but the real comparison is when they are relatively stock... B

Well, if it hadn't been changed in the 200k miles, your probably wouldn't have a top end. I recommend that you change the belt, tensioner (obviously), cam seals, crank seal, bypass hose, T-stat and waterpump. (all can be had for about $350) Button it up and your are set for the next 100k miles, that's the way I do it. FYI, the record that I know of is over 500k on a stock motor... B

Is it some impossible task due to design, or are they just lazy? #11? http://www.factorynissanparts.com/parts/1998/Nissan/Pathfinder/SE?siteid=214081&vehicleid=91891&diagram=3617145 Alkorahil (Rob Lacy) an active member here will take care of you. Email, call, PM him as needed... B I am moving this to the R50 section, just for exposure and to keep things straight.

Are the bearings loose and/or crunchy? You can tell by spinning the tire when it is jacked up and feeling any vibrations and holding the tire at 6 and 12 o'clock alternating push/pull with either hand. If it passes those tests, I can't believe the issue is wheel bearings. B