Precise1

Hey BigMike. I used to own a machine shop and had both. I also had a partner; now I have neither.... Kinda a sore subject. Anyway, I may be able to do some at my new job (Tool and Die Optical Diamond Turning) as they have a full machine shop and G jobs are allowable to some degree. (Just talked to the owner and he said "its your time, just don't hurt yourself") :cool2: I also have a friend that owns his own machine shop, and I can use his equipment if I want. Ultimately, if this takes off, I'll start buying my own equipment.... Yep, I'm sure your Pop could make these and other things; the hardest part is the design and fitment. Definitely keep up on your AutoCAD !!! It pays off in the long run. I designed the piece in SolidWorks in the first 4 hours of ever using the software; it's much more user friendly! Work hard Mike, its about time they armor those hummers, and I'm sure the guys over there will appreciate your effort !! Bernard

Thanks for the positive words ! The unit should fit all Pathys through 1995, but that will be confirmed with 88. I SERIOUSLY doubt I will have units by the end of the year. I still have some designing left, machining the prototype, and having 88 test it. There is no sense in my making and shipping out 10 units that don't fit or fail. Sorry, but no way around it. Heck, if these were never available before, you can wait another month for a good 1 -bounce- I don't know what the cost would be; The price of the aluminum and my time are the two real factors, but if I make them in batches it should be reasonable.... The amount of drop you want is the only real part variable. I'll probably make units in 2" 4" and 6" drops.... Anyway feedback is welcome ! Bernard

Hello all. Here is my rought idea for a PHRXM. While something adjustable would be nice, I haven't yet figured out how to do that while retaining simplicity and strength. Anyway, feel free to take a look and critique/make suggestions; it would be appreciated. The pictures are not exactly scaled correctly, but are close enough to convey the thought. This prototype will be made from billet aluminum (6061T6) and have .5" thick walls in the 'bell' section. 88 will test it out, so if HE doesn't break/mangle it, I'm sure it will be sufficient for the rest of the world. It would be easy/cheaper to make the same type of extension mount as a 3 piece mount together, but I think it's best to start with a solid piece. Anyway, hopefully I'll be able to make these for the people who need them. Thanks.... http://hosting.damagedreality.com/precise1/phrx-1.jpg http://hosting.damagedreality.com/precise1/phrx-2.jpg http://hosting.damagedreality.com/precise1/phrx-3.jpg http://hosting.damagedreality.com/precise1/phrx-4.jpg http://hosting.damagedreality.com/precise1/phrx-5.jpg http://hosting.damagedreality.com/precise1/phrx-6.jpg Bernard

I agree... Little bigfoot... :cool2: :bow: -bounce- B

Transworldmoto, are you serious ? You are telling me that if one's rotor is .0001" higher or lower in any of 4 opposing spots it's warped ? First off, that measures out of parallel, not warp. By your definition ALL rotors come warped from the factory ! .0001" is 1/40TH the width of a hair.... You measure the rotor 'warp' (run out) with an indicator while spinning the mounted rotor and the manual states factory spec for a 90-95 at .0028 max allowable, and that is a very tight spec. I'm certain that the brakes on an 01 have not been upgraded to the level you imply. All the shops I've been in turn the rotors true, not grind, although that would be preferable if they kept the rotors cool enough not to re-warp them. Not trying to flame you, but you are so far off the mark it is hard not to be critical, and people can be misled. edta1- First have the brakes bled by someone who knows the proper routine, then, assuming the brake pads, etc are in good shape, I would consider caliper problems. If they check out ok, then it may be a front end component. FYI, warped rotors will make the brake petal pulse and or the steering wheel shudder a little when the brakes are applied. Bernard

When I was looking for a Pathy, it was for the most basic model I could find. I'm right there with ya... I could not find one without at least power windows, if not more, regardless of age/milage. It seemed like they were all loaded, but maybe thats what sold to the yuppies back then.... As for your lack of description of what you have found, not to mention where you are, I wont even try to estimate a price. As MZX said, try Kelly Blue Book for starters. For what it is worth, I bought a 95XE (power windows, locks) with 110K for %5800 in north Ca in about 95% condition. Best thing is to have the $ and be patient. When you see it, you will know it. GL. Bernard

Are you kidding ?? American vehicles are great as long as you buy it new and trade it in after 2 years... I have a buddy who does this religiously... He always has a new, cool truck of some sort, and he always takes it in the shorts with the depreciation, and always has payments... I don't think he has ever stopped to consider what it is really costing him. He once asked me why I don't buy a new truck. I replied by asking him why doesn't he actually own his vehicle, this one still runs fine, why is new 'better', and I like to eat good steak. The last one hit a nerve; he never has any money.... In all reality, some american vehicles are pretty good but it is best to find out from ratings where it is proven, then buy a good low mile model used. New is not necessarily better (anything less than 3 years old is 'new' as the reliability issues usually have not become evident) My neighbor is a tow truck driver and swears that 50% of the vehicles he tows are GM. "What year and models" I asked, "GM" was his reply. He has a white Ford Taurus (sp) that he likes, and he wants to put flame decals on it. Not from the front to the back, but from the grill and wheel wells upward. What does that tell ya ?? Oh, his wife's car is a 90 Pathfinder that he is VERY impressed with.... Personally, I'm happy with Nissan, and for 5-8K you can get a nice (relatively) low mile specimen that has proven reliability. But then, to each their own.... Bernard

Sounds like a workable design IF the ladder is 28 feet extended, not colapsed.... I would recommend 2 braces from the existing roof rack instead of one; it would be MUCH stronger. Also, consider 2 vertical somethings on the cross member to keep the ladder from shifting from side to side, and a rubber bed inbetween to keep things from rattling. Make sure you post pics of it !! Bernard

Don't sweat it X2P Thats the best 'fix' there is !! I wouldn't have known it if I hadn't seen the bracket when I pulled the tranny to do the clutch... Had to pull it to remove the 4x shifter, looked at it and said "WTF ? Oh, I get it..." Now I expect to see some really cool pics ! Sounds like you had fun down there on the farm, wish I had that kind of access.... Bernard

A crows foot wrench w/or w/out a universal on it may get you in there... I cant really visualize the exact spot, but that may be the answer... GL !! B

Were you pushing down on the shifter when you tried to get 4wl or neutral ? There is a lock out bracket so you cant easily shift to 4wl, keeping foolish people from spraying the innards of their transfer case all over the road... Bernard

I get the feeling your issue is sensor/ecu related. Which, what I don't know. As mzX says, run the ecu codes to see if it says anything. Then it may not hurt to reset it. (both these processes are detailed at the top of the garage forum). While dirty injectors may not be part of the issue, better performance and gas milage is always nice. I prefer Redline Injector Cleaner and use it in all my vehicles. Good luck, and keep us posted... Bernard

Hey there Snowgirl ! I'd ask you to describe 'losing steam' better. Does it kinda bog, shudder or blubber ? Does it get better at higher/lower RPM ? Does it change if you give it more/less gas at the same RPM ? It it on the flat, up hill, all the time ? I think you get the picture... The more info or corolations you can supply, the better we can help; there are some VERY knowledgable here. Fuel filter is a possibility... Is it auto or manual tranny ? When was the last tune up. Have you ever used and fuel injector cleaner ? We'll get to the bottom of this yet Bernard

Brandon, if you get NO power, check the battery terminals for corrosion/connection. Then check fusable links. Then check the battery. Odds are it's one of these. If the battery is dead, that may be it, or the alternator may be failing... Hard to go any farther with what you supplied, but thats where to start. Good luck, and post if all that checks out... Bernard

Hey mzxtreme, is there Napa auto parts out there ? They have "Sta-lube" gl4, and I'm sure you could find it online and have it shipped; you only need a gallon+.... B

LOL, sounds like you have those things welded in !! Got ya about the flared nut, start cutting !! Just make sure you don't go under there pissed and get carried away !! I'm not your dad, but I'm gonna act like it for a sec... Please wear safety glasses... Good luck Bud ! Bernard

Hey K Man. I'm the same way (especially with a 4x4), I ALWAYS change all the oils (and will do full tune up if necessary). I merely consider it starting the clock on a maintainance schedule. It doesn't cost that much, and the gears like it . I don't know what happened with the previous truck's tranny; maybe it was what you put into it, maybe not.... OK, by the math you have not changed the tranny oil for 52K+ miles. Maybe the oil hadn't been changed for 20k, 30k, 50k before you bought it... So, that puts you at 52K-102K running that oil. The replacement schedule is every 30K, more often if you wheel it, do water crodssings, etc. Change your oil, or you WILL start hearing a whine !! Maybe it runs fine now, but oil brakes down/gets contaminated! Do not fear changing the oil, it is good not bad; just put in the right stuff ! There is a TSB posted in the garage by madkiwi that you should read about adding 'extra' oil. I think just jacking up the passenger side will let you add the 'extra' recommended, but I had the tranny out to do the clutch so I just poured it down the shifter hole. I put in 4 qts 80-90 gl4 and 1qt lucas oil stablizer for good luck. Shifting is stiff the first 1/4 mile on cold start, but then fine. I HIGHLY recommend changing the oil, and soon, but then it's your tranny. Be well. Bernard

Someone did a little write up on starter replacement, in the garage I think. Do a search. The most important thing you need to change the starter is patience. B

Whoa, that's REALLY bad !! You should be able to get at least double that average for 'normal' driving. My first guess would be the O2 sensor(trace/check the wires also), but something is definitely wrong !! Have you checked to see if you have a hole in the gas tank ?? Bernard

"I did splurge on the Bosch+4 plugs at the tune of $5 each but well worth it if the hype is true. " LOL, the plugs for my superbike are $22 each x4... YOWW ! B

Sorry, dont know the size of the bolts off hand... Just an afterthought, if you can get a nut splitter on there, it may save you a lot of swearing. You can also get away with splitting the nut with a hacksaw. If you are REAL careful you won't even damage the bolts, but then sounds like they need to be replaced anyway. Unfortunately, I have done a lot of this type of stuff; farging PITA most the time, but the right tools always help. Good luck... Bernard

If you can't get them to budge with an impact wrench and you have at least 90PSI(hopefully 120PSI), then hack/grind/drill them off. Thats what the mechanic will probably do, and charge you for. Just buy the new bolts, etc, and do it yourself. Just to cover all bases, do you have FULL air pressure ? Is the air gun torque setting on max ? Are the bolts spinning instead of breaking loose ? If you live in salted road country it may be different, but I have only had to cut/drill bolts off a few times in my life... Good Luck. Bernard

Got ya 88. I didn't know about a check valve system in there. Yes, sometimes I read too much into things, but I think this is just a result of not reading enough into things in the past. LOL, I must be getting old. Thanks for the patience and explanation Bernard

I plan to put on a cone filter very soon, and I will make my own aluminum adapter plate. If you take some measurements I'll make you a nice one pretty cheap... Let me know. Bernard

I'm not sure what the going prices are in your area, but I'd say it's worth a serious look. If you are mechanically inclined, the work parts needed aren't that big of a deal other than the cost of tires. You may be able to get him lower because of that, but if you can get a solid, clean, well running low mile Pathy and fix/replace what is mentioned (assuming there is nothing else) for about $3K or so, I'd jump on it.... Bernard