Kingman

That sounds like a rod loud and proud.

Removing the throttle body is easy, really. You can get lucky and be able to pull the injectors out by the wire with ease but more than likely not.

All of the wheels posted besides the aluminum ones take regular acorn style lug nuts.

I repainted the engine bay. Not exactly good for 100 mile old bearings but right before the hole I went to shift in to second and my wet foot slipped off the clutch pedal. Red lined the hell out of the thing. But I have much faith, after all ACL does support revolutions...

fskc!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Do you have ANY idea how BADLY I wanted to swap THAT 3.9L in to a Pathfinder without seeing someone else do it first?!?!?!!!?!?! At least I know for sure it'll fit like a glove now... I knew it it would. For some strange reason I love those engines. But iz willz beeeee EFI.

Stock Toyota wheels I got from my Uncle's truck. I think they were older Tacoma wheels? It's been so long since I've had that truck I hardly remember. Way too many things influencing my memory since then...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Watt%27s_linkage

Put new rod bearings in it, took about 8 hours.

Put exhaust on it. The guy straight up pissed me off! I specifically said I wanted 2.5" and he stuck 2.25" on there, forgot to make the y-pipe (I fired it up and went what the fskc), then he got busier and had a minion do it who stuck the &^%*ing thing directly in front of where the front drive shaft needs to go. I don't know how many times I asked "you sure the drive shaft will fit?" I'm going back down tomorrow and we're going to have a talk... I'd love to keep bringin the guy business, but... The Purple Hornie is already starting to burn out. It sounds way good I can definitely hear the natural tone and exhaust pulses from the headers. Still quiet but it'll louden up more. Headers > 2.5" pipe > Purple Hornie > dump after rear axle.

You'll need to reduce the fuel pressure way down if you're planning on running a carb. 35+ PSI is way too much.

Garret made me a badass plenum cover from his M30 and brought it down today. Tried to put it on but spaced that the back needs about 1/2" taken off to clear the firewall. Dang!

Hmmm, not sure I'm catching your drift with that or what you're comparing to? Porting the Z31 manifold to fit the throttle body took like 10 minutes. The upper part lined almost exactly up, it's the bottom and some of the sides that need about 1/8" taken off.

You coming down today?

Having no front diff will be a Godsend for you, Nissan did a dummy job of fitting it in there... to get it in/out you have to lift up the engine and fight it. And to get the engine out you have to remove the diff.

Yep. At pretty much tip in/cruising/no loud when the pressure is equalized it sounds soooooooo good. Damn thing sings me one sweet tune. Then a slight hill and it's ear piercing obnoxious. My phone doesn't take video, I've been meaning to get one with a friends but keep spacing it.

240sx KA24DE throttle body is also 60MM and bolts right on (minus boring the manifold) and the TPS isn't upside down either. Put one on mine a few weeks ago, made it pretty snappy.

Took it for a break in drive up to Carson to help my buddy finish his Blaster project so he has money to finish his 240. Between the drive there and back plus the 4 or 5 trips to NAPA it was about 150 miles. I can't wait to get exhaust on it... I should have recorded a video of what it sounds like being wrung out a little in the hills and twisties. My ears are still ringing

Awwww, thanks man!

Finished up the wiring harness. Better than factory!

He's mentioned it a few times here and there but hasn't posted a single pic of it.

Hey, I talked to Nismopu about your issue. He said either a wiring problem or your injector drivers are effed, which does happen from time to time.

Put a new factory Nissan CHTS in it and what do ya know, runs like a top for the most part. Learned my lesson about buying a cheapo one off Rock Auto!

I say CHTS because I have a brand effing new one and it's a piece of crap. It's a little difficult to track down the other issue(s) I'm having because of that stupid China sensor interfering with my bizznizz. I got off on the wrong foot with my engine just being rebuilt with unseated rings, then firing it up and having it run pig rich. The oil was pretty dark but now that the rings have mostly seated and the rich situation taken care of (adjusting the TPS to trip the idle switch), it's mostly clear. I find it a little silly that they use the POT for fuel calculations...

Most of Nissan's factory knock sensors are in the plenum already, which is aluminum. On Z31-Ts the knock sensor doesn't even do anything in boost! How rediculous is that? Essentially it's useless unless you're tuning. True, but what if a bad sensor is sending false signals? That's what makes a lot of rigs with bad knock sensors run like sheit. My Subaru did the same thing, gutless and sputtery until I replaced it. Being able to start it without the MAF is normal since the ECU has pre-set values to idle and at least run without it plus the input of the Coolant Temp Sensor. If you don't have the TPS adjusted correctly the idle switch won't trip and it'll idle like poo (off open headers it'll sound like a burbly drag boat in the water). Have you checked/ohmed the Coolant Temp Sensor? I would think your ECU is smart enough to pick up a problem but maybe not and it's thinking you're in the antarctic? That is still the main source for fuel management but at least with the newer ECUs ('88+) there's a back up daughter board for it in case the ECU looses the signal. I haven't looked, does the M30 only use the O2 sensor above 2,800RPM like almost everything else? The injectors being a little bigger shouldn't matter because the ECU is still metering the same amount of fuel just through a larger injector that has the capacity to flow more. A few CCs shouldn't be a problem, it's not like you're running fatty 800CC injectors on a stock ECU. I saw something above about the engine running and codes. Neat thing these do, after a few seconds of cranking the ECU knows what's up. They don't necessarily have to run to pick up what problems there are. Psssst - don't forget to change your oil after all of this.