Kingman

Cams between the NA and turbo VGs are the same. Only difference is the series... AB or W.

Lame...

We're back over $4/gallon here...

Doesn't really sound like an actual engine problem. Sounds like bad plugs or wires, pump, filter, etc. That kind of generally cheap stuff. Possibly the Coolant Temp Sensor since you say it's fine when fully warmed up. Pretty symptomatic of that. If you're not able to run a compression test, pull the fuel pump fuse or the main coil wire and crank it over for a while. You'll hear a solid miss in the cranking cycle if there is one.

Yes really! Most fluids nowadays, GL-5, have additives in them that destroy the brass baulk rings inside of the 30A transmissions these Pathfinders use. Any other fluid than GL-4 or equivalent will destroy it in fairly short order. Read: less than 5,000 miles. It'll run you about 60 bucks for Redline MT90 but it needs to happen NOW. GM Syncromesh works well also.

If you would have read what he posted instead of babbling off nonsense, as usual, you would! You ever put a truck in to 2nd instead of 4th on the highway? That kind of problem can be dangerous and definitely should not be left alone.

Are the main power cable connections clean and making good contact starter and battery? Sounds like the starter solenoid is engaging but no power from the battery to spin the starter.

Well ain't that some sheit...

Or worn main bearings. Did you put a factory Atsugi pump in? That'd be insane if it's already dying.

Try another gauge but be careful with that issue...

Which is why if you take the air cleaner assembly off they barely run.

They don't need exhaust back pressure lol no engine does... old myth that really needs to hurry up and die. Mine ran great without the tube and so did the others I've turned wrenches on. However it didn't run great when I forgot to put it back on and plowed a mud hole, but that's self explanatory.

His air cleaner is fine without the restrictive accordion tube, TBIs run crappy without the entire assembly though. Back pressure - so very wrong.

Make sure it's tight first...

Sounds like the catalytic converter may have broken up and clogged the exhaust system.

Oh boy. How do you plan on replacing the upper main bearing shells? The crank has to come out for that and that means pulling the engine so you can unbolt the flywheel/flex plate and remove the oil pump.

Those are almost always clogged.

Make sure you run the ECU start signal wire to the button as well, it runs off the same wire that triggers the starter. If not it could be a hard starting beast! Had this very problem with my old Z31 and unfortunately I caught on to it right before I sold the thing.

Damn dude! Glad you're alright, that's gnarly.

Pain in the ass to drive but it's okay to do. Had to myself for a few months until I could afford a new pump.

Oh my effing God you thick skulled twat. The FSM calls for 1/2" deflection with 22LBS of force applied to the belt. That's ALL you need to know. A wooden stick or something to clear the intake, a measuring tape, and 22LBS of weight! Lead, parts, steel, fskc go outside and fill up a bag of rocks, whatever it doesn't matter... Put the belt on roll the engine over a few times put the measuring tape behind the belt put the dowel on the belt put the weight on top and tighten the tensioner until the belt only drops a half an inch roll the engine over check and adjust if needed! Boom done carry on...

It's pretty easy to get something that weighs 22LBS, a wooden dowel, and a measuring tape. At the proper tension the belt twists almost exactly 90 degrees.

Cleaned all of my personal belongings and stereo crap out of it. It's getting traded tomorrow for a 450HP Z31. I'm sad to see the ol' girl go, I love it to death but I'm ready for a change and looking forward to the next project. I've made my mark on it, time to pass it on to another fellow Nissan enthusiast that I know will take good care of it.

Put it in gear or park and have someone hold the brakes.