Kingman

Or a piece of pipe.

I haven't used it after feeling how flimsy it is. I can see drinks easily flying out, spilling on the heater/stereo/shifter, and getting super hot from the heater. Same thing Toyota did in their 3rd gen trucks, being in front of the vents and all.

This piece of crap?

Fresh MT-90 for the transmission and rewired the charging harness for my brand new 130A Quest altinitor. Tomorrow I gotta do the fab work to make it fit and tension. The drain plug looks like it had never ever been touched so it wouldn't surprise me if the fluid was 215K miles old. Barely any shavings on the magnet so it's still in 'bout perfect shape.

I had the honor of setting the supercharger and the belt on.

Took me a few minutes on the 3 hour drive home to get used to it's highway manners but after that, right at home. Fixed the tach, put my subs back in, re-did the POs janky ass wiring for the subs, installed my new hatch struts, fixed the tach, attempted to check the oil, and put another hundred miles on it.

Bought it back.

I had a baffle come apart inside my 40 series, hence my obnoxious rattling comment. Before that it sounded awesome up until 4-4.5K where it turned raspy.

Ah ok, I read your post a little wrong. If they're sealed they're loaded already, but if a boot pops you're SOL for regreasing and keeping them alive.

Wait you replaced the ball joints already? Just about every replacement one doesn't come packed with grease, just enough to keep the joint lubed and not rust while they sit waiting to be sold. If they were put on dry there's a good chance they're ruined already. I wouldn't think a rubber bump stop would make a clunk. All it does is stop the suspension travel, doesn't hold anything in like was already said. That's the job of the perch. Also, just because the rear link bushings "look" good doesn't mean they are. The suspension, road, and weight of the vehicle make things move a hell of a lot more than a human wiggling things will.

The pressure regulator is on the side of the throttle body, I doubt that will block flow though. If you have fuel to the throttle body it's probably the injectors that went bad or they aren't getting the signal to open. There's a safety relay in the passenger kick panel, orange, that send power to the injectors from the ECU/fusible link. If that's bad or tampered with incorrectly the injectors won't get power.

Baffled, and when they break apart or rust out it's a really throaty sounding obnoxious rattle box. They do make a straight through style though. And Edelbrock brought back they're straight through perforated mufflers, they sound really good.

Spend the extra few bucks and get a factory replacement, it'll be worth it in the long run. Flowmasters sound good yeah, but they're a baffled muffler instead of a straight through perforated metal type so there's more restriction.

There's also a plate where the e-brake cable would go if it was a Hardbody, on the other side of the brake booster than the clutch plate. But again it'll use some extra length. I did that on mine because the plate was already there and trying to get to the wiring harness where it enters the cab on the passenger side basically requires gutting the underside of the dash or taking it out. 5-6 feet is lost when you go through the driver's side. But if you bought extra wire like you're supposed to, it shouldn't be a problem.

Completely different engine. Z31s are very easy to work on, Z32s... not so much.

Was it a factory carbureted engine or TBI? If it was carbureted to begin with you don't need to mess with the fuel pressure, just put the Weber on and go. I found the main jets at 140/135 to be too lean on my Z24. It's also easiest to use the factory throttle cable bracket and bend it to shape.

Ding ding ding we have a winner!

I just put an engine in an '87 for an old far that is insistent on putting dual exhaust on it with an x-pipe. He's already modified a cross member and has it completely planned out. Can't wait to see what it does whether it be a gutless pig, normal, or better. I don't have much faith in it though. I've gotten 28.4MPG from my stock '87 Z31T all highway, the most in my Pathfinder was 23.8. When have you seen Mr.510's headers in person? There's no reason at all why you can't run a dual exhaust setup with them or any header out there for these things. They exit with a ball and socket flange.

I've installed a set of Pacesetters and Mr.510s and neither require any frame modification. The Pacesetters however, on the passenger side, come really close (about 1/4-3/8") to the fuel lines and vent tubes so heat shielding those is pretty much necessary. I will never buy another set of headers other than Mr.510's because they were designed by a professional in the 510 racing industry, their hand made build quality is through the roof, and well he's a good guy and a good friend so I'd rather my hard earned money go to him.

Make sure the battery didn't drain.

The furthest left timing mark on the crank is TDC and you need to make sure it's on the compression stroke. You should feel it but pull the NO. 1 plug and make sure the piston is at the top. Take out the distributor and align the dimple on the gear to the arrow on the shaft. It'll rotate a little as you drop it in and it engages the teeth. Put the rotor on and make sure it's pointing directly at the NO. 1 point inside the cap. Should be almost directly left as you're looking at the engine, I think.

That bit about gear ratios vs. mileage kinda depends. A 10% throttle opening at 3,500RPM is a lot more efficient than a 30% throttle opening at 2,500RPM. The engine being near it's torque peak is the most efficient.

Do you have the remote start hooked to the start signal wire for the ECU?

Still doing it? If so, good. It's supposed to do that to bump the power steering pressure up a little. The idle should up when you switch the brights on, rear defrost, turn the steering wheel, and turn the heater fan on. Have they looked in to the ECM Coolant Temp Sensor and made sure it's ohm readings depending on temperature match the FSM?

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/31418-building-a-vg34-and-installing-it-in-my-88-pathy/