Kingman

High idle might be a vacuum leak somewhere. Do you have a vacuum gauge to hook up? Should be drawing between 19-22. Or spray brake cleaner all over everything. Dirty MAF/connector, TPS, timing too far advanced, or even actually adjusting it down with the set screw.

Well glad everyone is alright. Was it a head on or a t-bone?

That Alpine was a POS, I got rid of it the week after I got it back. It had a good Kenwood that got stolen.

Finally put my CB in. Sticks out a bit further than I thought it would.

That's rough.

Wheel bearing needs some attention?

I figured since I had the hood open and it was going to be open for a while I'd tear out the old rotted and torn hood liner, clean the grease off. And put the almost mint one I got at the junkyard in. I don't know how it happened but basically everywhere that wasn't covered by the liner had an eighth inch of packed grease covering the paint. My step dad has some kind of magical wax and grease remover that he's had since the 80s, even with that it took a lot of elbow grease to get it to come off. Im happier though, little details make a big difference to me. Oh yeah, dropping resistors.

The guy sent a picture of there the selector wires go, got that straightened out. Now it barely runs and so rich its fouling out the plugs like the MAF scale is off. I think he uploaded the wrong tune onto the chip he put in. I swear this sheit is never going to end.

I don't know which wires go where, the other ECUs I have are '84s and this new one is an '88. They're totally different inside.

Put a new power steering pump in, flushed the system, and added an inline filter. Then wired in dropping resistors for the new ECU. Wouldn't start... checked to see if it was powering on and saw its stuck in diagnostic mode! When the guy socketed it for Nistune he took out the switch knob so I can't even return it to normal!

Temp sensor won't cause it to lose spark, no. But like I said it can make it run like total crap and bog out.

Curious, what's the base timing set at and what's the advance range? Just spoke with David, the gears in those new units are ones he sent them. They've been in the works for months now so yes he's aware.

ECU pins 3 and 5 go to the coil along with a constant ground and 12V with the key on. That's for the plug right at the coil. The Crank Angle Sensor has 12V with the key on, a constant ground and, and I don't remember off the top of my head which pins to the ECU the other two wires go to. When it quits running definitely check to make sure there's both power and ground. You made a wire extension for what again? FYI the CHTS (temp sensor) feeds the ECU data via resistance so it can adjust injector pulse width and timing. There must be zero resistance in the wiring to the sensor for the readings to be accurate. Quick test: when the engine dies, unplug the CAS and see if you can hear the injectors click, then plug it back in. Do that a few times, with the key on. With a working CAS you'll hear them click each time the plug is plugged or unplugged. If you do, the sensor is working fine and its a problem between the ECU and coil.

Eh, the temp sensor won't make it shut off suddenly. Itll bog, sputter, and run so rich it floods its self out and dies though. The crank angle sensor is in the distributor and its known for crapping out suddenly when warm. Its plug is a 4 prong one coming from the distributor. A bad ground or short will certainly cause it. The temp sensor usually only throws a code when there's no signal detected from the sensor.

Nice good job man! How's the power and fuel mileage? I do believe you're the first one to put a Mr.510 carb on a Pathfinder.

Heres what it took to break my H223. 5 years of my hard driving plus whatever else was done before me... redline clutch dump burnouts/donuts, 4lo wheelies again clutch dumping from redline, banging gears, etc on the original fluid. No mercy! It finally blew up at I think 218k and I've owned the truck since 171k. It blew up on another member on here after a hard wheeling trip. They are strong, but I'm sure with double the torque if you did that kind of stuff on a regular basis like I did you'd wad it up into a pretzel.

Did you lube them? Can't be any worse than the noises mine makes now.

Ordered the poly control arm and sway bar bushings last night online. My new power steering pump and front rotors will be here tomorrow, I picked up the new wheel bearings yesterday. After the bushings get here I'll have everything I need to rebuild the entire front end. New grassroots center link, tie rods, ball joints, wheel bearings, brake rotors, power steering pump, and all of the bushings. I can't wait for it to drive like new, but better! Also have the dropping resistors for the injectors to go with my new ECU coming.

If you're interested while the heads are off you can upgrade to 10mm studs instead of 8mm so they'll never break again.

That seems pretty low, did he do it with the throttle plate wide open? Wet test? Did he crank it long enough? If it runs just fine and still gets decent mileage I wouldn't worry about it.

R200, still strong as hell. Same diff that's in the rear of a Z31 for the most part, the '4/87-'89 LSDs from those cars swap into the front of ours. They're good for almost 700. But, the weak link is the CV axles which we can't do anything about yet.

Hey man that's alright, bet it won't happen next time! Personally I haven't looked in to the diesels much but I will say this, if its said that they bolt in to the V6 trans its likely correct. Reason being, Nissan used the same V6 bell housing from 1984 up until 2004 (at least in North America) when they came out with the VQ40 to replace the VG33 in the Frontiers and Xterra.I think some other countries might even still have the VG33?

Well, hop on over to z31performance where many are running 4-500+HP cars on the stock 30a trans. I had a 71c, weaker in every way than a 30A, in my 400ish HP Z31 and it took it like a champ. Not uncommon. Then you get into the Z32 30As which are the big Mac daddies. No worries, the strength of Nissan drive trains blows most peoples' minds.

30As are proven to handle upwards of 500ft/lbs of torque. Also for the record, the stock rear end is both stronger and larger than a Ford 9" and D44.

You said you wanted to deemissionatize it... and no it will not cause any light to come on nor make the ECU enter limp mode. These are OBDI trucks with one O2 sensor, not OBDII with 2-4 pre and post cats. '96+ is when all that hokus pokus started. The oil pan sits about 3/4" away from the diff axle tube, the engine needs to move forward quite a ways and angle up steeply. Now, that being said if you could get the pan down far enough from the block to unbolt the pickup tube from the oil pump and main girdle you could probably get away with that. Some have said they didn't need to touch the diff but I haven't been able to get it to work. Easy enough to unbolt it, let it swing down and out, then pull the engine. When you out it back in the diff and engine need to go in at the same time so they "mesh" together. Hopefully UNCCfinder knows the way to not touch the diff or oil pan.