Kingman

I plan on installing lights under the dash, in the corner of each door, and along the lower part of the trim panels in the back or where the rear ash trays are. It'll be interesting to figure out wiring and running the lights in parallel... It's always nice when you open the door at night and you can see everything clearly.

Neither I or anyone I know have heard of a steering box completely failing, ours are extremely strong. I doubt it's that. If it was the steering box you'd be all over the road and there would be insane amounts of slop in the system. Yes everything is lubricated with brand new grease. Can you hear your pump whining at all? It shouldn't make any noise unless it's at full lock (build up of pressure).

You likely won't see anything. The particles of metal shavings are floating around though, they get into the workings of the steering box or power steering pump and eat away at everything as the fluid circulates and pressure is built. Then more particles are created and more stuff gets gummed up. I'm fairly sure the only real way to get every spec out is to replace the lines and the steering box. You'll find a lot of shops will try and get you to pay to replace the ENTIRE power steering system even if only one component fails, that's why. They don't want to be liable for another failure down the road. On mine, it'll randomly be VERY hard to turn at a stop and it gets easier if I rev the engine a bit. While my motor is out I'm going to warranty the steering box and do another flush.

Looks good! Where is your fan shroud, or do you have an electric fan?

I'm having the same problem. I know it's being caused by left over debris in the system when my first power steering pump went, if you don't get every little spec out it will destroy another pump and keep destroying them until the problem is taken care of. A quick fluid flush isn't enough...

Do not run it inline with the radiator, you'd effectively be in the same situation as you would be without the aftermarket cooler. Always bypass the stock Nissan cooler... Unless like you said, you have a brand new radiator. It's not worth the risk to use an old original cooler in a new set up.

Same cooler as on my old Pathfinder. Never mind mine was an 18,000 GVW but it was somehow cheaper than the 16,000 GVW one.

I don't even want to imagine the stress on the drivetrain from that... I've had one wheel come off the ground because I turned it too sharp and gunned it on dry pavement, but it's really hard to do.

Awesome photography...you better have more.

Haha, goods ads. But a POWERFUL AND TORQUE RICH engine?

I've had to stack 3 1/32" cut off disks on my dremel before, it worked fine. Usually they do pretty well unless like B said you push too hard or they bind. Good disks work wonders though...

Exactly as posted above. I just did the swap myself, definitely worth it.

I made one, I couldn't fine one online. I got identical to stock flanges and measured the distance from each hole to the ground the catalytic converter was sitting on and matched that on a pipe that I think is 17.5" long. That's the difficult part, is getting the opposing angles on the flanges right. Works fine, I need new gaskets though.

There is an edit button... My old Pathfinder had no muffler, just a small 8" down pipe off the cat. It was really loud and had little low end torque, even worse it was a 3-speed automatic. I made a video of how this truck sounds through the RPM range, inside and out, and don't mind the blue smoke at 5K. I'm pretty sure it's a clogged PCV valve allowing too much pressure and blowing oil past the rings. It does sound tinny around 4K and up, but it doesn't sounds as bad under load when driving, obviously. It is really damn loud in person but with the factory cat on, it was a slug because it was clogged. I'd imagine a high-flow cat would sound similar and flow probably maybe just as well. I agree with what you said about intake/exhaust. It's also the same with headers, they will get you virtually no where unless you have proper routing and piping behind them. http://www.youtube.c...h?v=Zwq1Xgj0mIU

If it's flow you want, any aftermarket baffled muffler won't do you much good at all. The best for flow are perforated metal lined mufflers, Edelbrock used to make some like this but stopped a few years ago. Zero exhaust restriction and had a nice deep sound. You can find them on Ebay nowadays for fairly cheap.

The shop is what? You mean you actually found a shop willing to remove a catalytic converter? Your laws must be different than ours here in WA, any exhaust shop is held liable for any changes made to the emissions systems and can get a HUGE fine for it. Lame really....

Center in, center out. The factory pipe size is 1.875," however there won't be any problems installing a 2.25" system. For reference... just a cold start. 2.25" piping with a 40 series and no cat. Having a cat will make it a lot quieter and more "composed," no cat will open up the sound by a large amount. So much it booms and howls under overpasses. I should take a better video, but I think you can tell without the cat it sounds burlier. It all depends on what you want to do. http://www.youtube.c...h?v=AanUoNe71S4 This is an older one with the cat on. http://www.youtube.c...h?v=6LUa5HEJGbg

I'd find out who exactly makes certain parts for different vehicles before blaming the auto maker that uses parts from these manufacturers, before assuming the nameplate has anything to do with it. It's like auto makers who use Tremec and Borg Warner transmissions, they fail a lot and have a lot of common problems...it's not the particular auto maker it's the supplier. Same with Delco-Remy brand electrical parts, you'll find A TON of bad alternators from them that are in many different vehicles. Today I just replaced an alternator on a Suzuki Samurai that uses this brand, but what's weird is some Chryslers, GMs, Freighliners, Detriots, etc. use these. Hell Jeep Cherokees use a Japanese brand transmission and there are quite a few failure points on those as well.

Well, it could be worse. It could be a '97 BMW M3 that pegged 10 grand and bent the valves. $1800 just in parts! Sounds like you got it pretty much under control, you'll probably feel a little bit of a power difference with some new parts.

I'm surprised to hear the alternator is failing. 4.0L and the asian warner transmissions run forever though. If it's the V8, watch out for when your oil pressure suddenly tanks to 0 PSI when you come to a stop and the warning light, and audible dinger, come on.

Swap the JGC V8 front coils with our factory coils and you're done. For the front, crank the torsion bars and install ball joint spacers or aftermarket UCAs to correct the ball joint angle.

The oil pans are different, that will need to be swapped. I'm not sure of anything else though.

That's what I used, but believe me you'll have a hard time following that wiring through the bumper and into the fenders. They really buried it good. I simply cut the connectors off and spliced the aftermarket wiring in, made sure there were no voltage drops anywhere, and flipped the switch. My center console looks a lot better without the old finicky and falling apart switch that ran them before.

The relay should be mounted on the firewall next to the window motor, that's where mine is at least and it looks factory. I ran my aftermarket fog lights through the factory switch and circuit. The factory ones were the ones dangling way low below the bumper. The first time I had it out wheeling the passenger side one got completely demolished.

I'll have to look tomorrow, but I'm pretty sure those suckers don't move forward.