abomb1

Why is this one so much cheaper? With the $60 instant rebate that's $389 for a 9000# winch. I'd like a winch, but also am discouraged by the cost of a bumper to be able to hold the winch.

He does have some new kind of audio equipment called a "Twetter" though. Who knows what something like that is worth. "New 6x9's in the doors and new twetters."

Hopefully I'm not reposting this, but check out the "Pimp My Ride 89 Pathfinder" on ebay. What do you think makes it worth $15,000? Could it be the "new shocks and STRUTS!!"? :o Maybe its the "Brand new exhaust Chrome Tips"? :eek: It sounds like it may be pretty nice for an 89 (still not a 4 door) but I don't see how he can say its worth $15k!

Yep, mine's an XR4 also, a 99. I'm sure they all mount the same. If you can find the aluminum, let me know what the cost would be. The one from Enduro Engineering looks cool, but I don't want to spend that much on one. My plastic one hasn't failed yet, but I'd rather not wait for my brake disc to get bent before buying something stronger.

Just cut a 2x4 about 8 - 10 inches long and stick it between your front wheel and the underside of your fender where it attaches to the forks. It'll keep you from needing to compress the suspension and make the bike a lot more steady when tied down.

Wanna make another one of those rear disk protectors? :idea: I've still got my stock plastic one, but have been looking at the billet ones on ebay.

Cool!! A friend of mine just got a receiver rack to haul his XR400 from Cabela's. With all the discounts he ended up paying about $40. I think they messed up the price though, you can't normally find one of those for a bike for under $150. So does it sway from side to side (front to back from the bikes perspective) when you take corners? I've seen so many of those racks on the back of vehicles and it looks like they are bent down to one side or the other.

Well, here's a new one I found out about this weekend. I got about 2 miles down the highway on our way home from some relatives when I heard about 5 seconds of squealing, then it was gone. Nothing felt different, and the Pathfinder was still running fine, so I just figured it might have been some snow on the roof being blown towards the back and off. 15 miles later I had to pull into a gas station for gas, and by the time I was ready to make the turn, I was almost stopped because of waiting for other cars. I couldn't get the front wheels to turn at all from a stop, but once I got moving, it was a little easier. I didn't see any missing belts or anything not turning that should have been turning. The power steering fluid was a little low, but nothing to be concerned about. I topped it off and drove the rest of the 200 mile trip home with no power steering. Today I brought it to a neighbor who owns a repair shop and he found that the pump had failed. This is a $430 part from Nissan and apparently there is a TSB on it that also recommends replacing some other tube along with it. There's nothing you can do to know that it might be going out, so I'm not sure that this will really help anyone else out there, but I hadn't read anything about it on here yet, so thought I would post up. There's another $500 I can't spend on something fun to add to it.

I was very happy with my BFG AT's in the winter. I don't have experience with the 2 tires you are looking at though. You might have a problem fitting a 265mm wide tire on the stock wheels without hitting the strut. Do you have much room between the strut and your 255mm wide tires you have now?

Looks a lot better than what you started with!! I'm looking forward to that 4-8", just not the traffic coming to work tomorrow! Glad you got it fixed in time. Now take a look at your frame rails behind the rear tires.

That's a great idea!! As long as I can find the right size hose tomorrow I will try that. Sure beats last nights method of stomping on the clutch a few times, then running around under the passenger side to try bleeding more air out (and getting covered in brake fluid). Any idea what size that hose is?

Nobody in town stocked the Redline oil, so I ended up using a Silkolene Comp Gear Oil that my local motorcycle repair shop sells. Its a semi-synthetic GL3/GL4. I'm hoping that even though it is for a motorcycle it will do the job in my Pathfinder. I took it for a short drive last night and the noise is completely gone, and the shifting is 10 times smoother. After spending $150 on oil I was really counting on that fixing the problem. I now have Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil in the diffs front and back, Mobil 1 synthetic ATF in the transfer case, Silkolene semi-synthetic in the tranny, drained and added new clutch fluid, and a new fuel filter. I had a hard time getting all the air out of the line for the clutch myself, so I will get a second person to man the pedal while I bleed the air out tonight. Thanks for all the help. Oh, and I found out you bleed the clutch fluid right next to where you drain the transmission fluid, so it was very easy to get to.

Thanks for the tips B. I may have to get a service manual after all to figure out where to bleed the clutch fluid. Would be a nice thing to have anyway I guess. I may try the teflon tape on the threads. I've been thinking all along that I gotta remember to loosen the filler plugs first, but that's the kind of thing I usually forget when it gets time to actually do the work. Hopefully this time I will remember.

I'm hoping to do all the fluid changes tomorrow night, so tonight I took a look under the Pathfinder to make sure I would be able to do this all myself. The only concern I have is where do I bleed the clutch? I've bled brakes on many ATV's and motorcycles before, so I know what I have to do, but I didn't see the valve I need to unscrew to bleed the fluid out. Is this something I should be able to see from under the vehicle?

No problems at all with reverse.

I'm going to try replacing all the fluids, its about due for that anyway. A guy on the AC board said he had the same thing going on and it turned out to be water in the clutch. Only 76,000 miles so it shouldn't be anything wrong with the clutch otherwise.

I've noticed lately a grinding sound when I am changing gears, especially to 2nd and 3rd, but sometimes into 4th also. It seems like if I very lightly push the shifter into the gear, it will be fine, but if I have the shifter too far side to side or push too far forward I hear some kind of servo's or something grinding. Anyone know what this could be? Is it something I should get repaired right away? Something I could do myself? This is on an 01 Pathfinder with manual transmission. Thanks

Good Point! Your welcome K9!

Wow, not only did I repost something, but somehow it came up as two threads. I'll go back to my corner now. -thnkboutit-

I just saw this posted on the AC forums. I guess I've never seen an $80k Pathfinder before. Very expensive R50 Desert Racer

I guess you both caught me. I photochopped the dash of my Pathfinder onto the floor and console of a manual vehicle! sly So my only mistake was choosing a vehicle that didn't have any foot pedals?

Wow, interesting thread. Here's my 01 Pathfinder with a manual transmission for anyone doubting their existence in the US:

Yeah, I've seen a lot of complaints on some of the other sites too. I'm surprised there isn't a Technical Service Bulletin for it with all the problems. Good luck!

I had a 94 Pathfinder SE: 3" Body lift K&N Cone filter Street lock wheels 32" BFG A/T KO's MSD wires Bosch Platinum +4 plugs AC prerunner front bumper

I haven't painted my step bars, but it is just a few bolts. I would like to sell my bars before they start rusting to make up some of the cost of sliders. Definitely go with the flat colors, it will look better IMO. Good luck with your painting!