abomb1

I wired it all last night and it works great! One question though, my relay had 2 87 prongs, so 5 prongs all together. I only used one of the 87's to go to the foglights and left the other one unused. This shouldn't cause any problems should it? I tried running each light off from each of the 87 prongs, but one of the lights didn't work then. So next I thought maybe I should just ground the unused 87 - that just blew the fuse. Finally ended up leaving it unused and all seems good in the foglight world that lives inside my Pathy. Thanks to everyone for the advice.

Do I need a relay when adding another set of driving lights? The kit didn't come with a relay, but I want to make sure I add it if I should have one. The lights came with 55W H3's, but I bought some 100W bulbs to put into it instead. What will the relay solve that the fuse won't? Just less chances of a fuse going out? I would like to finish this tonight, so any advice would be great.

That sounds just like the Baja one I think I am getting. The only difference between the regular prerunner they sell and the baja version is that the 2 outer bars are not welded to the other mounts straight across the bottom. Looks good! Can't wait to get mine -bounce-

Yep, I had the same thing happening to me. Turned out I had the wiring backwards. The black wires are the positive and green are negative for the stock foglights. As soon as i switched the wiring, the fuses have not blown since. (2 months and counting)

94pathy, Did you get your prerunner bar yet? I have been looking at these lately also and see that AC lists separate ones for the 93-95 bumper style which I would guess have the inside 2 mounting locations moved to not mount where the foglights go. Also, they list 2 different styles, one being called a "Baja" prerunner bar. Which one did you get?

Actually, the inside diameter of the hole going into the airbox where the MAF used to go is 3". The flange that you end up with by using the gold ring on the airbox as your "adapter" ends up being 4" around, which is why that would require the 4" filter.

You can use the adapter from Summit, then just get a K&N universal 3" inner diameter cone filter. That's what I got in my kit that I bought. Maybe this information is coming too late, but if you haven't bought the filter yet, you can use the Altima adapter and a 3" K&N cone filter.

Statikuz, if they have a discount tire near you check out the prices of wheels there. I got 5 streetlock rims mounted and balanced for $300, which is 60/rim. The 767 style were $40. Maybe you are looking at the American Racing brand though, the Unique brand makes similar wheels, but they are a little cheaper.

I had to drill one hole bigger to get all 4 bolts in. You should be able to get bolts through 3 of the holes loosely, then drill what you need to get the last one through.Used the bolts from the factory airbox, but they don't have nuts, so you'll have to get some locknuts that fit them. I'm not sure what size they were, just happened to have some laying around. Get the adapter for the PRE 96 Altima (Either 96 or 97 they changed).

Yep, I used the Altima Adapter off ebay and it is still working great! I got the K&N cone filter and adapter for around $50 shipped.

Thanks! We watched Strongbad so much here at work that it was blocked by our proxy servers for about 3 months! (good thing there is also a mirrorred site) For those who don't know who Homestarrunner or Strongbad are, Click here! I think with your 10 inch wide rims you are going to rub the metal for sure with 33's. I've mostly gotten by with my 32's on 15x8 rims with only trimming the flares, but I haven't tried stuffing it too hard yet either.

I think everyone has troubles with the front bumper brackets. They are a pain in the a$$ but eventually I got mine to work. The curve of the metal where the brackets mount to the frame makes for a lot of fun!! Good luck!

I did the +4 plugs and the universal MSD helicore v8 wire kit. I am happy with the performance, but I can't say I noticed much if any difference between them and the stock plugs and wires. I did the rotor and the cap at the same time. With all of that it did get rid of the hesitation I was noticing, but I'm sure I could have gotten the same results with some regular NGK plugs.

A friend of mine had them on his Cherokee Sport and was happy with them. Of course, he chose them over MSD because they were yellow and they were in stock.

Yep, read that installation, but I got an adaptor plate with my filter that I would like to use instead of pulling that gold ring out of the airbox. I know others have done it this way, just want to make sure I'm not missing anything and that I buy the right hardware for bolting the adaptor to the MAFS. My Pathfinder is a 94.

I would like to install my cone filter tonight, but want to make sure I have all the parts first. I got the filter off ebay with an adaptor plate for an Altima (from what I've read that is the one to use, just need to drill out the holes a little). What size bolts do I need to attach the adaptor to the MAFS? Do I need to buy some gasket material to cut out for between the MAFS and the adaptor? I will use the OEM airbox mounts to secure the MAFS so that the filter does not flop around. Anything else I am missing?

Weird, I'll try again... (Deleted previous post) The rust on the frame is very common in these Pathfinders. Here's mine. Before: After: There are more pictures of my repair HERE

One more:

Here's our dog Maggie, I don't have a more current picture than this at work, so here she is at about 6 months old (She's 2 1/2 now):

Just make sure you push the cup size adjusters in before moving the seat up! Every time my wife drives the Pathfinder she forgets about the cupholder and the seat knocks the adjuster side of the cupholder off its tracks when she moves the seat forward.

I wasn't sure what it was for, I'm guessing it is just there to make you think your seat is moving after you put a body lift on. That way you go out to a junk yard and buy a new track for your seat to sit on that still doesn't fix the problem. And now you're stuck with an extra driver's seat track that you'll probably never use. Good idea 88, if the noise ever comes back I think I'll just take it off.

No problems here. You might want to have a torch to heat up any bolts that still don't loosen up after the WD-40. For the body mounts, the bigger the socket wrench, the easier it will be. Don't forget to take the front bumper mounts off BEFORE lifting. I took the bumper off the mounts at first and couldn't figure out why I couldn't get the body to separate from the frame in the front. Those mounts bolt to the frame and pass through holes in the body, so it won't lift without removing the mounts. Don't forget to unbolt the loop that goes around the driveshaft and attaches to the body. (I read that many times and still forgot when I was lifting the body off the frame). I had a noise show up when I would take corners that made it seem like my seat was moving. Turned out to be the loop I just mentioned rubbing on the other loop (Having a tough time coming up with a better word for it tonight) that it runs through. You can either bend the loop that bolts to the body or put some kind of rubber around it where it passes through the other loop. I used a garden hose and haven't heard the noise since. That's all I can remember now. The instructions provided with the kit are pretty generic and not too helpful, so just print off any instructions you have found on the interweb to look at while doing the lift. Good luck!

Could be. I'll take off the wheels tonight and look at the pads. My mind immediately went to thinking of this being something serious. Never even thought about the brakes.

On the way into work this morning I heard a new squeak that I haven't heard before. Only happened at lower speeds and rpms and seemed to disappear (not just drown out to engine/wind noise) at higher speeds and rpms. It really sounded like squeaky belts, but I just changed all 3 not even 2000 miles ago. My timing belt was changed about 40,000 miles ago and since I have a 94 I'm pretty sure I'm good for at least another 60,000 on that. I decided to stop and take a look under the hood but could not get it to make the noise while I was looking. Then after getting back on the road, I didn't hear the noise for the 20 more miles into work. Was my Pathfinder just looking for some attention?

New plugs went in last night and after about 100 miles today, I'm very happy with the results. I didn't realize how bad the old plugs were and how I got used to driving like that. Makes it seem like a new engine now!