abomb1

I think that's what he meant. It's what I was talking about anyway. When I first saw it all it was doing was holding moisture against the floor, probably helping the rust get worse and worse until I fixed it.

Or it could be a splash guard as soon as the body rusts out underneath it! I would guess it was meant to be a sound deadener. But if you don't take a look under it every once in a while you might not know if it has rusted a hole through the floor yet. That's how I found out about mine...about a month after I bought it.

Looks great!! How did you end up getting around that rear bolt that was stuck?

Looks great! Even with the stock wheels.

If you can do the install yourself, go here and get all 6 injectors for about $300. I replaced mine in my 94 last summer from this site and the sluggishness went away. Their service is excellent, even answering the phone on a Sunday night when I was looking for a source for my injectors. Whatever you do, don't just replace the bad ones. I tried that the summer before with 2 of them, only to replace the others less than a year later. On the other hand, a supercharged Xterra would be pretty nice

I had a seatbelt in my 94 Pathfinder replaced last summer because it wasn't retracting. I know it wasn't the dealer it was bought from, you can take it to any Nissan Dealer. No questions asked, they just replaced it free of charge. I think stuff like that has to be under a lifetime warranty.

That's the only place you can get the AC lift kit. AC and 4x4Parts.com are one and the same.

Cool, let me know how it goes and how much time it takes you

Sorry to read about your problems installing the lift, that seems to pretty much be what happens to me anytime I try working on something that seems easy enough for me to tackle on my own. Unfortunately I don't have any more ideas to give you on removing that bolt. I remember the two bolts in the back being the hardest for me to get out also, but eventually they moved with a torch. Good luck with the rest of the install and post some pics when you're done.

You can attach one picture at a time to your posts if you don't have the picture hosted somewhere on the web already. To do this, click the browse button just above the "Add Reply" button when you are typing your post. Find the picture on your pc and select it, add the reply and you have attached a picture. Or you could start a Cardomain page and load all your pictures there, then link to them in your posts by using the "IMG" button above where you are typing your post.

Looks pretty good from the one in your profile. Were you trying to attach a pic to this post??

I'm still working on the mpg check, should know in a couple days. As far as power I have only noticed a difference in the speeds I shift at since I have a manual tranny. Taking off in first I don't notice anything at all. I do have to rev a little more than before to take-off in second though. We have one of those signs that tell you your speed on one of the roads at work, and according to that, my speedometer is spot on right now. I did notice with the old tires that I was going slower than what the speedometer indicated. I'll have to take care of the sig pic soon. I'd like to come up with something more than just a picture from my Cardomain pages.

I've heard bad things about working with struts, its supposed to be pretty dangerous. Pep Boys charged about $100 for both springs and upper strut mounts, they didn't break it down any more than that.

Most foglights use the H3 bulbs.

You can buy the in-cabin remote for these shocks, I think the system is about $150. I don't need that since I don't won't be changing the settings that often.

Thanks for all the replies. I went from the stock height, which was almost 31" to the rear fender flare, up to almost 36 1/2" to the rear fender flare after the lift. The lift is the AC 2" lift, with KYB GR-2 struts, Rancho RS9000X shocks, and 2" lift coils. The tires are Goodyear MTR 265/75R16's, so they are almost 32" high and about 10 1/2" wide. Wheels are chrome Ion Alloys, style 165, and have 4.25" backspacing. I had to remove the front mudflaps, and do some trimming of the fender liner both in front and behind the front wheels to make it all fit. That should be all I have to do, even for flexing it, but I haven't had the chance to do that yet. I would say everything I did was pretty easy, but I didn't do any of the front lift. I brought it to Pep Boys to take care of the struts, mounts, and the alignment afterwards. The rear was as easy as removing the wheels, dropping the axle as far as possible to pull out the stock springs, replace shocks, and install new springs. I got the coil spring compressor from Autozone through their "lend a tool" program and it turned out to be too small to use with the new coils. You need one that can handle at least 6" diameter coils. I fit under the garage door alright, but I probably won't be able to put a bike rack on the roof like I was planning on doing. The ride feels pretty good, the adjustable Rancho's allow me to keep the ride as close to stock as possible with those stiffer springs. The tires actually aren't noisy at all like I expected them to be. I might notice it more in the summer with the windows down or sunroof open, but right now I don't think they are bad at all for noise.

Well, by the end of the week I got my lift all finished. Although AC calls it a 2 inch lift, I did see almost 4 inches even before I put the larger tires on. Here's a few pics... Stock: New coils and RS9000's Rear fender height stock: Rear fender after lift: Lifted, still the same tires: Rear height with the new tires: More pictures with the lift:

I have Bridgestone Dueler AT's on my 01 Manual Transmission SE right now. They are 245/70R16's, so I think they are one size smaller than stock. They were on the vehicle when I bought it in October though, so I've left them alone so far. They do very well in the packed snow/ice, but as others have said, I've heard the Revos are better.

Yeah, I figured it would be somewhere around 5". I'll check my manual tonight and see what it says.

lug nut spacing is 6 on 5.5 or 6 on 139.7 depending on how they display it, but I really want to know the backspacing. (Not enough to go out in the -20 degree weather and try measuring though )

That sucks!!! pssd Let them try that again once you have your TJM though sly

How big a tire has anyone used when lifting their Pathfinders with the 2" coil lift from AC? I was planning on getting 265/75R16's, unless I could get away with the 285/75R16's. I will be getting 16x8 wheels with 4.5" backspacing. On a side note, does anyone know what the stock backspacing is on the SE wheels that I have?

I finished the driving lights install last night. To anyone that does this in the future--DO NOT PULL OUT THE RUBBER BOOT FROM THE FIREWALL It was almost impossible to put back in, I couldn't route the wire through the boot anyway, so it was useless of me to get it out. It is such a cramped area to work in and has all kinds of sharp edges that made my hand look like I let a puppy use it as a chew toy. In the end I just poked a hole through the boot to run the new wire through the firewall.

Yes, the wire goes through the boot and out a "new" hole in the boot since it was impossible to try to get the wire all the way through following all of the other wires. I'll just use some electrical tape or a rubber type of glue to seal the new hole and it should be fine. Somehow I have to figure out how to get that boot back into the firewall though. Good point on the ignition-on wire. When I did this on my 94 Pathfinder there were how-to's that told the color of the parking light wire, so I had just planned on doing the same for this one.

Bluetiful! :cool2: