TrailChaser

I checked out my bent panhard rod and I don't think it was hit. It looks like it was put under extreme pressure at the ends till it bent in the middle... I was just wondering if maybe my locker could have done it??? If you have a locker on you pathy please check your PH rod and let me know if yours is bent also... Hell why don't everyone check. I just thought it was a little wierd that the one in the junkyard was bent also. Makes me think it could be a sorta common thing...

I'll definatly be relocating my hi-lift... Thanks for the great idea... snosnk

I'd say hit you're local junk yards and see if you can find the JGC front coil springs for about $20-$40 you get a 2-3 inch lift for the rear. I got mine for $35 and did the install myself following the instructions at damagedreality.com, and it only took me about 1.5hrs. Here's the post with pics of my before and after JGC lift. I had new 31x10.5x15 for about a week before the lift and the tires only rubbed once. That was while pulling a heavy trailer and only when I hit big bumps... I was still hating hearing them bottom out... I can turn both ways to full lock with no rubbing.

Thanks for the info on the panhard rod. I thought $75 was expensive. I'm gonna call around tomorrow and see if I can find it in a different JY for cheaper... I asked my cousin the mechanic what he thought they'ed cost and he said over $100. I just got the 31x10.5x15 BFG MT's last week... Had'em two days, and was luvin the way the pathy was lookin,,, then my wife ran into the back of a FORD goin to McDonalds... The damage isn't that bad... totaled the bumper, but didn't bust out any lens/lights... The worst thing is the headlight mounts are shot. So now I have to figure a way to get them fixed. I needed a reason to put a good bumper on anyway...

I haven't cranked them up yet, but I plan on doing a slight crank up when I do... I don't want to max it out. Plus I'll be buying the new UCA's and p-arms soon. About that bent panhard rod...... How much would you expect to pay at a junkyard for one??? They just quoted me $75 at my local JY. I think that's a lil steep, but what do I know... How exactly could that panhard rod get bent? I checked my reg JY and they had a bent one still on a pathy, but I wanted a strait one so I went down the street to the next JY with a pathy. They're the ones that want $75... What does that do for the truck anyway??? PS... is there a different name for the panhard rod??? the guys at the junkyard had no ideal what I was talking about, I had to explain where it's located.

So I guess I got about 2 to 2 1/2 inches of lift from the springs... Not bad for a 30min ride to the junkyard and $35... They where already out of the JGC and just sitting in the back... I got some spring compressors for the install, used them to put the JGC coils in, but the old ones popped right out... I didn't disconnect the e-brake, but I don't think I damaged it.

After...

OK, this is the last set of b4 and after.. These are from the back door with it open...

After...

Before...

The hitch after the lift...

Before... sorry bout the lil pics. I took these pics with my phone. The bottom of the hitch was about 1ft...

After...

Here are the before and after pics... Before...

Everything looks fine and it doesn't have wierd tire ware or anything, but I do know it was wrecked by a previous owner, cause the doors won't close right...

Is this thing suppose to be bent like that??? I hadn't noticed the difference till I was checking my work on damaged reality and saw the one in the pic that was strait.

I want to get 32x11.50x15. I still have my stock 95 wheels and I'm pretty sure they're 15x6... I know it's a no no to put tires that wide on this rim unless you do alot of rock crawling (which I don't do, unless you consider curbs in the city rocks) I plan on getting 15x8 wheels when I come across a good deal on the ones I want. My main question is: will those 32x11.50's fit w/o rubbing on a stock 95 pathy. Or should I just go with the 31x10.50's??? Also does anyone know what the difference in gas mileage would be between the different sizes?

I had a mystery problem about a week ago. It ended up being my coil. I didn't figure that out till I had already bought a dist cap, rotor, ignition module, and finaly the coil. Mine wouldn't start at all tho.

I don't know how I missed that... Sorry bout that..

I didn't see anywhere that you checked the ECU for codes? Check that and report back... If you don't know where/what the ECU is check the garage section for the list of codes and how to check'em.

I just wanted to put this up here for everyone who might have this problem in the future. Here's the tread on nissan4wheelers.com about my pathy's problems... For those of you who don't like clicking links here's a short and quick version::: I washed the engine (while running) Unpluged the MAF sensor to knock excess dirt from the K/N Forgot to plug the MAF back in b4 cranking Cranked the pathy, ran about 15 seconds (ran crappy) then died Retried cranking only to have it crank then die agian Thought to myself "I forgot to plug in that darn MAF sensor" Plugged it in and still no deal on cranking. Checked the ECU codes and got a 12 and 21 Reset the codes and only got the 21 ignition signal code I then went and checked for spark Had sprk from the coil to the dist cap, with no spark from dist cap to plug wires Replaced (in order) the: rotor $7, Dist cap $19, Ignition module $20, and coil $10 Got the last 2 items from a parts yard off a 91 pathy. I love the price difference from auto parts store. Ended up that after 3 days of trying to figure it out my cousin who is a mechanic noticed that it had a yellow/orange spark from the coil. He said it was too weak so I replaced the coil and it started right off. We eliminated the coil right away because we where actually getting spark to the cap. You'd really have to read the whole thread to get an idea of the trouble and frustration I went thru for those 3 days. I got it started just in time to go to work for my first day on a new job.

One thing you might want to keep in mind about defrosting your windows... Make sure your A/C is turned on by the little switch... The only difference is that the A/C being on gives you dehumidified air... But, I guess if it's in the teens there's probably not gonna be a whole lotta moisture in the air anyway... This is mainly helpful for when you windows get steamy...

I had a similar problem with my pathy about a month ago. My blinkers and flashers stopped working all together, but ever once in a while the bright lights wouldn't work. No fuses where blown and everything appered ok, the blinkers just wouldn't work. I bought a little relay blinking box that plugs in right by the fuses. That didn't help so I took it back and got my money back and assumed it had to be the blinker switch. I called the Nissan dealer and told them the problem and they qouted me a price on the blinker switch itself and told my it would be nearly impossible to fix by myself without experience. $200 or so bucks. The part was gonna take a week to get there and I'd just drive around with no blinker till then. Anyway,,, I was driving somewhere IN THE RAIN... and I always use the blinks out of habit. I looked down and they where working. and they've been working good since then. The dealer still has the part ready to go if they stop working agian. But as long as it's not broke I'm not going to get it fixed.

Don't use JB turd on anything... That crap is worthless... Use duct tape before that stuff... But really,,, I'd say find a nut that fits it and then get your power drill and drill that hole out big enough so the nut will go thru tightly... Then run down to your local muffler shop and get one of those guys to tack weld that nut on in the inside like it goes... Bring a 6'er of beer for the lucky guy you get to do the work... Don't worry about getting that nut that fell back. I'd say just run down to the hardware store and find a new one. It shouldn't take the guy welding more that 3-5 tacks to completely seal it... If you want to make it real easy on the welder guy I'd say buy an extra long bolt, like 3-6 inches that fits the nut you buy. That will give the welder a good "handle" so he can weld it up with one hand and hold the nut in place with the other. Key here is to make his job easy as prossible so the guy will actually do it... Hit it with a wire brush and paint it when it's done so you don't get a rust problem... Second idea,,, Get a really strong magnet and use it to grab that nut from the inside. Now work it all the way back up to that hole and it should already be flat side toward the hole so then all you have to do is be very patient and keep working at it till you get it treaded back on, but then you'd probably need some kinda back-up on the nut on the nut or it'll never get tight.

I think you can get more speed with on of those magnets... You just have to be very careful and use it like racecar drivers use drafting... Let it pull you close to the car in front of you,,, then change lanes real fast to avoid rear-ending them. and slingshot around and to the next car. ps: If people who skake are skaters, and people who play the piano are pianist, why do you suppose they don't call racecar drivers racist?