silverlion

Cool, another fellow Oregonian. Well, I'm not a real Oregonian, I moved here from Texas. WB!!

I like my SE. It would be nice to have the rear tire rack as well. When I go wheelin', I have to remove the tire from underneath and put it on the roof. Other than that, the creature comforts are nice and leather is easy to maintain.

Watch out for the razor sharp edges on the lip on the firewall. OUCH!

We are always having commercials about oil shoved down our throats. Who cares about this study or that scientific test. Let's go real world, real wheelers and see what "results" we come up with. I am a huge Royal Purple fan. I've been using this since the RP reps were pushing this unheard of oil out at the race tracks. (I used to race the Mickey 10.5 series back in the day) I was a Valvoline fal before that for my racers, but a Castrol high mileage fan in my DD's. I have had great results with the RP oil and have never had any bad experiences with it. Though expensive, I feel it is worth the extra bux for the 4% gas mileage increase (actual experience, not TV tests), next to no engine wear, and reduced engine noise (lifters, etc). Make sure your new engine is broke in before the switch. I have not given other synthetics a chance, found something I liked and stuck with it. What are your preferences?

But Pezzy, that was in the distant past. I am more gooder now! I forgot about timing belt and o2 sensors. Can reak real havoc on the unsuspecting buyer.

Start with looking at anything front end related. Struts, bushings, sway bar links, etc. Give the driveline a good look, rear susp. components. and look over the entire underside for scratches and dents in oil pans, etc. Ask him first if it has been wheeled, then look underneath to keep him honest. I have bought a few "pretty" vehicles to find out later they were in worse shape than a 50 yr old car in a scrapyard. Don't drink when you look, that's how I got a few lemons.

Repaired Frame? Bent, Broken? If the ex. Manifold gasket has a piece missing, it can allow cool air to enter the chamber during deceleration. That can lead to cracked valve/seat. Chevys are notorious for this. Not sure if nissan uses stainless valves and seats. If they do, no worries.

I agree 100%. I had my share of that in Texas. I have an uncle that ownes a few quarrys and we always went there to drink and wheel. We did some stupid things in the day. Ruined many vehicles, spent a lot of money, all we have now are memories and nothing else to show for. Moving to Oregon and getting used to their laws (You can't drink anywhere hardly), I have found that you can have fun without alcohol. It costs less too. But when at camp or back home, I party 'till I hit the floor!

Year: 1996 SE lift : No LIFT Wheels : Stock Tires : Firestone Destination M/T 31 x 10.5 x 15 Notes: no issues, no rubbing, no spacers photo:

Exactly. I've even observed mechanics using a 3 foot, 1" dr breaker bar to "torque" lugs.>>> Sofa king we todd ed! <<<

I had similar issues a while back. Turned out to be a mass air flow sensor and the throttle position sensor needed to be adjusted. As the problem got worse, the truck died at every stop unless I went to neutral (AT). Hope this helps.

These guys wanted no responsibility at first. They offered to change them, but I don't trust them if they have to dismantle anything to replace the studs. Even my 5yr old can screw a nut and bolt together.

Both, 3 in rear, 2 in front(one on each side) They really did a number. I'm wishing them a severe case of the trots.

I had new tires put on the pathy a few months back. It is time to rotate, and this is what I found. Thosa ASE certified, inept bastages at the local Firestoned complete Auto CareLESS shop broke off 3 of my studs and crossthreaded 2 others. I have no idea how they got the lugnuts back on but they managed. It appears they hacksawed the three broken ones and filed the ends to catch a couple of threads. I cannot tell what they did to get the other 2 lugs on. I called the chop shop up and they told me there was no way to prove they did the damage. They offered to replace the studs themselves but I declined. I told the dipsh!t in charge that I would not trust them to do any further damage to the vehicle. If they cannot perform a simple tire change, what makes him think they can replace wheel studs. My question is, do you have to remove the axle shafts/ hubs to replace the studs? The International and the 2 chevys I had, had clearance holes in the dust covers to line up to and remove/ install the new ones. Any help would be appreciated. I tried a search and found everything studs, but not wheel studs. Link anyone?

I wish my pahy wasn't a daily driver, I would fab something up this weekend. I'll research it a little more and see what I can come up with.

I see, I would have to install limiting straps then. I'm just looking for a cheap alternative. I have machine shop access and very limited funds. 4 kids will do that to a guy.

I have a question about lifts. Spacers to be exact. Why can't a person just make some 2" spring/ strut spacers, rather than replacing the stock springs? Seems like if you put heavier springs on the struts, they top out all the time. Whay not space the strut itself down and still keep the stock ride? Any input would be helpful.

I have the same issues on a cold morning in my '96. They stop when the engine warms up. It sounds like lifter tap in mine, yours sounds different. Mine tick constsntly 'till about a needle width on the temp guage. I'll follow this thread in hopes that someone comes up with a solution/ cheap fix.

Go Auto Trader. You will find a much better deal there than any dealer will give you. I paid 5500 bux for a pristine 96, loaded w/leather, snow tires and reg tires. A dealer had one in a little worse condition for 9 grand and wouldn't budge on the price.

I used a 6" ext. no swivels. You gotta hold ur tongue just right. Oh yeah, watch out for the sharp edges along the seam on the firewall. 4 small slices for me. I tried the tool kit, some tard overtightened the plug so I just stripped it out. I had to contort to get one hand back there to feel out the path for the socket. Best of luck bud! Oh yeah, get a 12 pack, you'll never get it when your pissed so take many beer breaks.

Very tragic indeed. Back in Texas, I was in the construction industry for a spell. We had an incident when pulling an incapacitated dozer onto my service trailer. I was winching the machine onto the truck when the hook broke in two. It sent the cable through the headache rack into the windshield on the drivers side. It even took a bit of the steering wheel with it. About two months prior, OSHA visited a job site and suggested we use a remote rather than controlling the winch from the interior. My boss thought it would be a good idea. Thank the Gods for his small investment for I would no longer be here. I am not sure if I am out of line for sharing my story. I just feel it pertains to the lesson at hand. We all take day to day life for granted, sometimes overlooking the little things. Hopefully this thread will reopen our eyes. We can be gone in an instant.

Royal Purple ATF all the way! Shifts better, runs cooler. Well worth the extra cash. You need no additives, just make sure you empty the TC when you drain the old fluid.

^^^^took the words right outta my mouth! One day, I too, will be able topry the card from my wife and buy a setup like that. That is what the factory should have done!

I had a 1970 Caddie Fleetwood that shifted harder than my Pathy. I just want a good solid shift. Like a truck, not a car.

Thanks! I tried the search, I must have typed something wrong. I came up with everything else but what I was looking for.