tekazgtr1984

Nope but it couldn't hurt. If only a company out there made longer struts for the R50...

The blacked out lenses look decent but are horrible for dispersing light. Why spend money on something which makes your headlights worse? Agreed. The pricetag is horrific but HIDs in general aren't cheap from a OEM standpoint.

These are JDM projector/HID headlights which were available on higher grade R50 Terranos from MY 1998-2004. Believe me, they are hard to come by, especially for us here in North America. I've spent the last 7 months trying to locate a pair for my '98 and have made very little progress despite having several connections in Japan. The biggest hurdle is price. For the first gen R50 HIDs, the cheapest I have found has been approx. $1,200USD+shipping from Japan. For the second gen R50 you're probably looking at around $2,000USD+shipping. I don't know for sure, though. Whether or not the dealerships in Japan carry these items in inventory is hard to know. My guess is they would probably be special order only. If you come across something and need some translating, let me know.

Or get a D22 snorkel. The R50 snorkel is an epic fail. And I'd definitely like to see more of this alty relocate when you go through with it. That is a great idea!

The only sources for dimensions and specs on here would be Tyler (tmorgan) or Alex (nissandoms). For MudJayson, the kits are no longer being made unless by special order. Even then, you're looking at probably close to ~$2,000 alone just to have a kit built.

Hank is right. The lack of aftermarket support for the R50 is truly disappointing so the vast majority of modification is custom fabrication. The subframe drop thing is seriously awesome but requires a ton of research, time and money, especially if this type of custom modification is new to you. Hopefully Tyler (tmorgan) or even Alex (nissandoms47) will chime in here and provide some additional information. I have been tinkering with this SFD thing since I first learned of it and there are some interesting options out there. Here's a link for some more SFD'd R50s, these being the JDM Terrano. Enjoy. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22432

SFD = subframe drop. Because the R50 is unibody construction (Nissan Monoframe) a body lift is not an option. A subframe drop basically entails installing spacers in order to lower the subframe from the unibody. This will allow for larger tires, the biggest I've seen 35". 4" SFD is the most common but rumours are some have gone as big as 6". In any case, a SFD is a good option because unlike suspension spacers, a SFD will lower your drivetrain and thus avoid increased strain on CV axles. Anything greater than 2-3" in suspension lift and the CV axles will be at very harsh angles.

You don't need spacers to run 32" tires; a 2" coil lift will suffice. With spacers installed, I'd say you could be able to fit 33" flot. tires pretty easily.

Good luck with that. I'm still convinced the Y60 Patrol axle could work but this idea would be more fun.

Sure. It's worth learning, IMO. Whether or not it's financially necessary remains to be seen. In any event, it's a good thread.

As far as I know (based on what info I've found), the QD32ETI replaced the TD27ETI in MY '97 as it was more modern, more powerful and more efficient. As for the RE4R01A transmission, I'm quite certain the ratios vary from one vehicle application to another, considering this transmission was fitted to Nissan and Mazda vehicles. My guess, and a fairly safe assumption, is to stick with the R50 variant. It'll make swapping everything much easier. Obviously, you'd want to use the R50 variant mated to the QD32ETI, not the VG33E. I have no doubt the rations will differ, and quite significantly (diesel vs. petroleum). As for the front end hardware, I have no idea if these parts are interchangeable with other Nissans. My guess is not as it was the only Nissan SUV to ever be equipped with automobile IFS. That being said, your best bet would be getting parts online. Asia's a hotbed for OEM-equivalent parts, namely Taiwan. The ECU and its finite details are still beyond me at this point. I'm hoping someone else can chime on to answer this, as I have no clue whether or not the ECU plays any role in controlling the AC, ABS, cruise, etc. I'm hoping not, because this will make an engine swap considerably easier. I'm still very interested in this turbo diesel swap so my research is on-going. Whatever new developments I find, they'll be posted on the forum first!

The Y60 & Y61 Nissan Patrol/Safari both use the same rear axle as the R50 Pathfinder/Terrano and, if I'm not mistaken, both were equipped with rear discs. Dare I say this is what will work?

As far as I know, the first generation R50 (MY '96-'00) came equipped with three engine options: VG33E ('96-'00), TD27ETI ('96) and the QD32ETI ('97-'00). The engine mounts are indentical with all three options. I noticed you're located in the Phillipines so clearly souricing a JDM engine wouldn't be too difficult for you. Truth be told, I've been tinkering with this notion since learning of the JDM R50 and the QD32ETI. The QD32ETI equipped R50 is the easiest to find in Japan as it was an option for three years on both the Terrano and Terrano Regulus. Not only that, the numbers this engine boasts are pretty impressive, both in terms of output and fuel economy, and are way ahead of the TD27ETI. In your case, sourcing shouldn't be too much of a challenge. And in regards to locating a TD27 from a WD21 Terrano/Pathfinder, you'd be better off locating a R50 engine. As for my sources for this information, let's just say I've got friends in places. Actually, I lived in Japan for 18 months and made quite a few car-related contacts.

RE4R01A (produced by Jatco) is the automatic transmission code for all R50 Pathfinders from MY '96-'00. Diffs are the same, H233B in the rear, R200A up front, either with 4.363:1 or 4.636:1 gearing. Manual transfer case is the TX10 (produced by Fuji Univance).

As am I. Been interested ever since getting my R50 and realizing discs in the rear were never a factory option. Keep us posted on any developments with Moser!

Amazing. Simply amazing.

Yes, it can be done. The transmission used is the same for every R50 using the VG33E, TD27 and QD32ETI. The biggest challenge, as far as I can tell, would be swapping out the fuel system.

Thanks!

Haha, sticky nips. To be honest, I'm not sure. I tried 8mm but they were a bit too small. I'm going to look for 10-12mm ones this weekend. Something that'll be snug but won't affect the powdercoat.

Peaches? Yeah, that's right. I have to find the right size metric bolts.

I wasn't putting honey on my own nipples, if you're referring to my personal experience. But seriously, how and where did this so-called information information originate? Oh wait, it was Simon. Mike: Thanks, buddy! As for what's available out there, ARB works for both generations of R50. On the first gen ('96-'99) there will be about a 1" gap in between the body and bumper. Apparently, rubber stripping works well to fill in this gap... Failing that, I haven't heard much good regarding Kennesaw's armor, but the options are endless and it looks pretty damn good, too. The ultimate would be if someone had access to TJM's blueprint data for the R50 T-15 bumper...

Apparently, nothing is scared these days... I don't recall ever posting that information online either.

You jagoffs aren't insulting me so much as you're making me hungry with these delicious references...

It looks a bit huge in the pics. From the right angle, the dimensions suit the R50 perfectly. Thanks. Now a subframe drop, 33s, rear armor, sliders, roof rack, lockers, air, and QD32ETI... It won't be doing any long distance travelling soon, unless it's with the R50. Bedliner's already been applied, per the PO. For the shields, I'm simply cutting the lower portions and re-using the upper sections to cover the airbox and washer fluid tank. What I'll be reusing won't interfere with the tires. Buttercup? Lemon meringue? Is that the best you got?

Here's the install for the TJM T-15 R50 steel bumper. Spent a wonderful, sunny day working on it while enjoying beer and football. The only thing missing would have been two foxy women in bikinis suntanning on the lawn... Oh well. Started off by removing the fender splash shields, lower bumper and rad grill. Seeing as how the fender splash shields cover up a fair quantity of important stuff, I'm going to be spending the coming weekend cutting them so they can be remounted to cover aforementioned important stuff. Used jackstand to hold up washer fluid tank while accessing bracket bolts. Close-up of OEM bumper bracket. Pretty flimsy... Top bumper (plated chrome) removed. TJM mounting brackets ready to go! TJM brackets installed! Bumper mounted, bolts tightened. Left-hand LED turn signal good to go. And voila. Ready to bash sh*t up! Night shot really brings out the dark accents of the R50. Thanks again for the armor, Dan!!!