Cuong Nguyen

I just got me a Quest fan from an 97 sitting in my room and need to know what's needed to make it work. Hey Tom, you still running one in yours? My Quest alternator is coming in next week so, hope it's enough to run it

Gas??! What side? Are you sure it's gas? could be water vapor mixing with the exhaust gas.

mild drilling and fabbing will be required to make it work.

If you ask the autoparts store, they will have no idea what a tension rod is or a compression rod is. If they look at your vehicle, they will probably think of it as a radius arm similar to the old Fords. I spent some time just looking at various possibilities as what it could be and found that it's called a strut rod. ChromoTech, the compression rod aka strut rod is part of the suspension. It is attached to the rear section of the lower control arms to the frame. If you look at the rear of the front fender, you will see it attached to the frame.

I believe they are 25 bucks over at AC.

I replaced mine today and found out that the body mount was ovaled out from wear and tear. It was rusting a little bit as well. The sleeve itself was rusted up and bend and it looked like it was going to break in half. The rubber bushings were deformed and chewed up (go figure.) I did the driver side and just slapped on the new parts for now until I can find time to weld up the hole and fix it using the race bearing.

you can run 32x11.50s fine on a 15x8. with the Trailmaster setup, make sure you run a wheel with at least a 3.5" BS. The Trail Master setup is rough 800-900 dollars. I haven't check it out in a while. Go www.4x4parts.com and check it out.

the stock tranny cooler is built into the lower portion of your radiator. From what you are describing, you have an external tranny cooler.

You can get a new windshield put in for $215--glass and labor. Plexiglass tends to yellow over time in the sun, but haven't checked out the updates on plexiglass lately. The ticking is a common thing on these models of Nissans due to weak manifold studs that break and causing the manifolds to leak and warp. Nothing really and you'll get use to it. Fixing the problem can be remedied by replacing the POS manifolds with headers. You got two choices for headers--Pacesetters and Doug Thorleys. The Pacesetters are known for bad fitment and quality. Though some have had no problems with them. They are the cheaper of the two headers. Doug Thorleys are the one you really want to get. They are made with quality in mind and will last longer than the Pacesetters if you plan to keep the vehicle for life hehe. They cost more though. The Doug Thorley headers are currently on back order. Call AC (4x4parts.com) and Mike will put you on the waiting list. The engine is very reliable and lasts forever if you keep it up the maintenance. Check to see if the timing belt is due. A bad timing belt will cause you to bend your valves if it breaks. 33s are what the majority of us run, but there are a couple of people that 35s. If you have any questions, feel free to post up. If you live in Texas, check us out over at www.texasnissantrucks.com. We'll help you install your lift and what not. We're always looking for new people to wheel with.

You can order your rock crawler rims over at 4wheelparts.com or go to discount tire and buy you some lookalikes or have them order them for you. with the 3" suspension and 3" body you can run 33x12.50s with some rubbing. the rubbing can be cleared by trimming down the fenders and flares. If you have the lego wheels, they are a 15x7 wheel with roughly a 4.5-4.75" backspacing wrapped in 31x10.50s. You can safely fit 31x11.50s, 32x11.50s, 33x10.50s. Expect to rub the frame with the 33s. The XE Chrome wheels are a 15x6 with about 4.5- 4.75" backspacing and come wrapped in 235x75x15s. You can safely run 31x10.50s, 33x10.50s, and 33x9.50s. Expect to rub the frame with the 33s. I do not remember the exact backspacing for these wheels but they are roughly about around there. I run 15x8 wheels with a 4" backspacing wrapped in 33x12.50 Dunlop Mud Rovers. Due to the 4" backspacing, my inner tire lugs catch the tension/compression rod mount at full steering lock. That can probably be cleared using wheels with a 3.75 backspacing or adjust your steering stops. The rubbing can tear small chunks on the inner lugs.

yeah, i was doing a mock-up for the heat shield to total ran out to be like 100 bucks? it was close there. the filter element is rechargeable. you can buy their recharging kit (blue) vs K&N (red) it's the same but different colors.

yeah i know what you mean. my pathy has sentimental value. I'd would hate to see her go. from what I meant earlier, totalling up the parts to complete the conversion, the price is about the same as 4x4 Pathfinder up and running.

LOL. The pop charger is from Jim Wolf Technology. Here's what it looks like and where to buy for cheaper: http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/mer...ode=PD210-13210 The MAF adapter utilizes a ventury to direct and even out the airflow straight through. the opening on the filer is something like 6-8 inches.

If you're wanting to install new cams, you're going to need to replace your lifters?, and springs, (dunno what else but it has been covered). The lifters and springs develop a certain wear pattern with the cams so that's why you need to replace them. As for performance, it's one of the best bang for the buck along with headers. You will probably need to bump up the fuel grade too and tune your ECU.

Truthfully, I can't really tell any difference compared to my K&N panel filter. Only a dyno will tell.... anyhow.. go to www.courtesyparts.com it's cheaper.

he was thinking of your front and not the rear. must've read it too fast.... back on the topic. that will ruin your shocks since they're not meant for beyond max extension. just get longer shocks and you'll be fine or put the bumpstops back on as mentioned.

You will need a new transmission and transfer case. You can't swap the tailhousings. It's not possible. If you're lucky, you can find a good parts pathy that someone wants to get rid of and pull everything from it. The whole swapping is ALMOST bolt-on except you have to WELD the front crossmember where the front diff mounts to. There are no pathfinders in my area that I can get so that is out of the question. I tried looking up the parts individually and found out that I'd end up buying another Pathfinder. So.......... I'm back to my solid axle swap as originally planned..

Adjusting the latch will fix it.

It was under my impression that the tire carrier support was built into the body already and it was a matter of just drilling the holes for the bolts to mount up to the supports. *shrugs*

it could be a loose wire or dirty contacts. Pull out the master switch and clean the contacts. Wiggle the wires while trying to roll the windows up and down and see if that does anything.

the best place i think of is your local junkyard. if not you can try ebay from time to time. the mounting is already there. all you need to do is get a template and drill the holes to the nuts.

How is splicing the wires a hack job? Have you ever installed a used door before? All he needs to do is swap the parts onto the "new" door and match up the bundle of wires. solder, and tape it up.

If it were me and I had just lost all patience, I would burn the car..... Hahaha... well actually I would just get a bigger hose, hook it up, clamp it, and call it a day.... Sorry if i'm no helpo

THe door is easy to replace. Just simply splice in the wires and tape it up good. I reccomend an extra set of hands to hold the door up while bolting up the hinges. Very simple install.

I would guess learn the capabilities of your vehicles and improve on what you learn. When I got mine, I did a full tune up and it restored all the lost power. Then got a Tranny cooler, body lift, lift, tires and so on. Just keep good maintenance schedules and you'd be ok.