Cuong Nguyen
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Posts posted by Cuong Nguyen
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Hmm. Hard for me to picture these clicks. I imagine your fluids are still good and topped off. What's the mileage? Exhaust hanger on the transfer case intact?
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Don't know if you got the answer but yes you can.
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Purple? Should be red. I don't know if royal purple is purple so you have to check. Check the tcu for codes along with ecu if you can get it to work. That's a start.
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I recall someone doing it on their VG33 without any craziness a long time agoI know how to replace the camshafts but have one question about doing it in the truck. Do the cams come out without having to jack the motor or some other crazy @!*% for clearance? I don't have a body lift. From eyeballing it, I think maybe removing the A/C condenser and grill? looks like they will clear the header panel.
James
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My guess is it's pressed in.
Have you tried letting it soak in pb blaster or stronger rust breaker? Heat or maybe a few good waves with a hammer may break the pin free so the valve can rotate.
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Is the throttle cable adjusted properly? It's not too tight?
Have you tried Checking to see if you have any stored codes? Ecu and tcu?
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It's been a decade or so things may have changed with pacesetters or my memory had gone downhill since. Great to know Pacesetters work without many issues.What do you mean modified to fit? My pacesetters seemed to fit well.
A few topics down we spoke about headers, check that out for some information on them
http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/44143-headers-time-to-bite-the-bullet/
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get on the list as this will more than likely the last batch of Dough Thorley headers they are making.
That or you buy Pacesetter headers and have them modified to fit.
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He responds pretty quickly all the times I have. Must be a busy weekend.
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You can find the dye at some auto parts store or online.
I think you can also rent the pressure system tool at the auto parts tore as well...I could be wrong though.
There's also this coolant elbow behind the thermostat hosing that can crack and case a leak.
You're not seeing a puddle or anything under the truck?
Whereabouts are you smelling the coolant?
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The power indicator works. I think the pressing pressing down on the gas pedal is to hit the kickdown switch.My power indicator light just burnt out the other day, that would make it difficult. You might check the throttle cable to make sure it's actually going full throttle if that's what the computer wants to see.
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That's good stuff man!
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Ignition to ACC
Drive
OD OFF
ignition ON wait 2 seconds
Shifter to 2
OD ON
Shifter to 1
OD OFF
Depress gas pedal to the floor and release
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My hunch is it's your coolant temp sensor for the ECM and not the gauge. If you look at the top coolant neck on your engine you will see two sensors. The foremost one is the one for the coolant temp gauge and the second one in the behind it is the sensor for the ECM. That one could cause fuel mileage and running issues because the ecu thinks your engine is not warm enough so it stops it from shifting into overdrive.
The transmission has one or maybe two coolant temp sensors but I cannot remember for sure. If you were to drop your transmission oil plan you will see them.
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I have a 1993 Nissan Pathfinder. For some reason I cannot access the transmission diagnostic mode. I get to the end of the steps but the power indicator is not flashing on the dash. Has anyone ever encountered this issue and resolved it?
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I am trying to figure out why my power indicator is not flashing the codes. I would not think that my 93 model would make a difference.When my tranny was doing this I used the diagnostic mode to help get an idea what it was doing. I don't remember what the culprit was but I did bookmark the service manual in case I would ever need to come back to it. If I remember correctly it's on page AT-39.
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Attempting to troubleshoot my transmission disengaging and engaging overdrive erratically. First step is to rule out a worn TPS and try to remember how to access the transmission diagnostic mode.
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EL-41 of the '94 FSM says the oil pressure switch should have continuity if the pressure is 1-3 psi or lower.
Wow, that's really low. At least I'll have a ballpark area to know if something bad is up on the gauge.
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The hatch glass just pops just enough to where it's unlock and then you pull it up to where it pushes it up on it's own.
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I'm running a Equus electronic oil pressure gauge (90* sweep) and the sender that comes with it has the set to where the dummy light trips on at approximately 11 psi per tech support.
Seeing how at idle is 9 psi, it would make sense that I should see the dummy light on most of the time at idle---annoying.
Now my question is since I don't have the FSM with me, at what pressure does the dummy light switch on for the factory setting?
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I totally understand. Good luck!
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Most of the tools you can probably rent at the parts store or find a friend that will let you borrow it. I've never taken one apart but I can foresee using a blind hole pulley, some 3 jaw pulleys, punch, or press, or bench vise.
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Laughing at this thread! GoGo PAM.
If you have the right tools, you can pull the clutch off and replace the bearings. Most of the bearings nowadays can be crossreferenced and replacements be found. Other suggestion would be replace compressor with a new one but that's not cost effective unless you have pump to pull a vacuum on the line and pull the refrigerant and recharge.
Mushy brakes
in The Garage
Posted
I have an extra MC if you want it--aftermarket for rear disk. I bought it when I swapped to rear disks and removed it for the 300zx master when I threw a dana 44 up front. I had also replaced the booster too thinking after replacing the drum MC for the disk MC and didn't notice too much of a difference between pedal feel. I have always suspected that the aftermarket knuckleheads making disk and drum MCs used drum proportioning valves for the disks.
Also you might want to try and redo your bleed sequence.
I did ABS module first, and then LR, RR, RF, LF.
Now If that doesn't work you could try the traditional method of farthest to shortest.. LR, RR, ABS, RR, LF.
The rears do not really matter which you do first since they're T'd off from the middle above the diff.